GLEN E. FRIEDMAN

Sometime in 1976, the phone rang in the San Diego office of Warren Bolster, the editor of the recently relaunched Skateboarder magazine. The voice on the other end of the line probably sounded a little off. That’s because it belonged to a barely pubescent kid, Glen E. Friedman, who was doing his best to hide the fact that he was just 14 years old. He was calling from Los Angeles. “I’ve got some photos of Jay Adams skating a pool,” he said. “But but they’re really valuable to me, so I if I send them in you need to promise you won’t lose them.” Bolster gave Friedman his word.

Six weeks later, a small envelope arrived in Friedman’s mail. Inside was a check and a tearsheet from the new issue of Skateboarder. He ran out to buy the magazine and found to his astonishment  that not only had the editors given his photo a full page, they’d also used the image as its subscription ad. “I just got the most radical picture that’s ever been in the magazine up to that point, and my name was on the bottom of it. It was crazy, and it was on.”

Friedman didn’t know it yet, but he just begun what would become a completely  unique –and hugely successful –career. Over the next 40 years, Friedman’s work – from skateboarding to music and beyond — not only provided essential portraits of these bad-ass innovators in their purest states, it also introduced them and the cultural movements that they represented to the rest of the world.

Friedman’s first experience with getting his work published to be a typical one in that involved his signature combination of balls, talent, and a knack for showing up early to the party. By now, the story of how Jay Adams, Tony Alva, Stacy Peralta and the rest of the Zephyr skate team reinvented skateboarding in the mid-1970s by using surf techniques and then going vertical, has become part of pop culture lore, thanks mostly to Peralta’s 2001 Sundance-winning documentary Dogtown and Z-Boys. And within skateboarding circles, the Zephyr team cemented their collective legend at the Del Mar Nationals back in 1975. But Friedman was there first. He’d been skating with them a year before that, and by the time he called Skateboarder he’d already spent the previous year documenting the crew’s exploits with a pocket Kodak Instamatic. (Friedman’s first published image was on the first roll he’d ever shot of a skateboarder.) “I knew was I was onto something,” says Friedman, “because I was a skateboarder and I knew that it was something really fucking special that no one had even heard of, and that  this crew that I was hanging out with were the only ones who were really doing it.”

Peralta’s film introduced Friedman to the general public. Wiry, intense, and fiercely intelligent, Friedman provided many of the Dogtown’s smartest and most entertaining insights. His sheer charisma and don’t-give-a-fuck attitude also made it clear why he was given the access to the Z-Boys, an insular, often combative crew who treated outsiders with merciless disdain, if not outright contempt. (They were well-known for throwing pieces of the decaying Santa Monica pier down on surfers from out of town.) And Friedman would have seemed like the perfect target: a mediocre skater who lived with his mom and stepdad in a good neighborhood who was a couple of years younger than anyone in the Dogtown crew. But he could hang, had stones, and, like his heroes Alva and Adams, self- doubt was never a problem.

“I’ve always had the confidence that what I do is the shit — I don’t fuck around,” he tells me. “You’ve got to have your own vision. You’ve got to show people what you’re doing and make it uniquely yours. Otherwise there’s no reason for Skateboarder to publish a fucking 14 year old, or for Jay and Tony to have me around if I’m just some rat who comes from the nice side of town, who’s just following them around like I’m kind of groupie or something. I wasn’t that. I was a fucking participant, and I was doing shit better than anyone else.”

Friedman went on to become the definitive chronicler of the Dogtown days for Skateboarder, publishing countless photos in the magazine throughout the late 70s and early 80s. It was around this time that he found another source of obsession and inspiration: music, specifically the new underground genres that had begun to take shape just as skateboarding began experiencing a lull in popularity. It started with “hard-core punk” (a term Friedman loathes) and bands like Black Flag, Minor Threat, and the Misfits, some of whose members had obsessed over Friedman’s Skateboarder work.

 

 

“People wouldn’t couldn’t  see what I saw in the bands,” he says. “I told myself I’ve got to show everyone what’s really going on here,” says Friedman. “I thought It was my personal responsibility to the bands and subjects to take dope photos because that’s what I thought they deserved.” After making a detour to produce the first Suicidal Tendencies’ record, which went on to become the bestselling hardcore album of the 80s, Friedman went back behind the camera and began applying his signature approach to the emerging hip-hop scene. His photos of Ice T, Run-DMC, LL Cool J, the Beastie Boys, and other future hall-of-famers just as they were starting out, are now regarded, individually and collectively, as iconic portraits of a group of artists who, like Friedman, got there first.

September 2014 marked the release of My Rules, a coffee-table photo book and career retrospective that Friedman proudly touts as the definitive summation of his work with the icons he captured early in their careers. It’s a monster of a tome, featuring hundreds of photos, many of which appeared in print for the first time. And it doesn’t follow any established format. Instead of having a high-profile journalist write an introduction, include an artist statement and then focus on the images, which is the norm, My Rules has a whopping 22 essays written by the subjects themselves (as well as a few of Friedman’s colleagues) about the context in which the photos were taken. “I asked these guys to write something because I wanted readers to know how we got to the moment where we took those photos, what the inspiration was behind them, as well as where the performers came from and what got them there. I just wanted the whole thing to be just undeniable.”

My Rules is also a testament – and a reminder – of Friedman’s world-class talent, a fact that often gets second billing behind the usual chatter about how he discovered so many of these cultural phenomena in way before anyone else. The photos don’t simply hit all the required checkboxes of a great image (framing, composition, contrast, etc.); what distinguishes the work is the complete lack of affect on display by the subjects, all of whom share a similar quality that Friedman was the first to define.

“When I said hip hop was black kids’ version of punk rock, no one had said that yet, you know?,” he says. “All these things – skating, punk, hip-hop – belong together for a reason. They were fucking heroes, and they all shared the same attitude. I’m so proud of forcing those things to be together.”

Whether he’s shooting Tony Hawk or Ice-T or Henry Rollins, it’s immediately apparent that Friedman’s subjects trust him, and the resulting images are strikingly naturalistic. Even the staged portraits – which he started doing in the ‘80s – feel more like reportage. Friedman isn’t Avedon or Liebowitz, who, despite their brilliance, impose a certain interpretation of the fabulous people who visit their studios. His goal is more personal, more intimate, more aesthetically political: he strives to capture exactly what he finds inspiring in his subjects, to create a photographic interpretation of his own passion. And he’s never been some gun-for-hire who gets called in to make a singer or a skater or a rapper look cool. Once the publicists and managers are involved, he’s usually long gone. And if he doesn’t love what you’re doing and what you’re about, he won’t take your picture. It’s an attitude that has undoubtedly lost him countless money jobs over the years, but one look at My Rules provides no doubt that it’s all been worth it. Not a single picture in the book seems out of character, vague, or half-asses.

“The most important part of my work, why it’s good why it separates itself from everyone else’s is because it’s from the heart,” says Friedman. “I didn’t do it to make a living. I did it because I had to do it, because I loved what I was doing. I loved these artists because of how they inspired me.”

 

Glen E. Friedman - Humanity

 

 

 

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DARREN BECKETT

DRUMMER DARREN BECKETT SHOWED UP IN NEW YORK WITH TWO SUITCASES, HIS DRUM STICKS, AND HIS IRISH CHARM. HE WASN’T SURE HOW HE WAS GOING TO MAKE IT IN THE BIG APPLE, BUT BEFORE LONG HE WAS SITTING IN ON JAM SESSIONS AT SMALL’S JAZZ CLUB ON 10TH STREET, JAMMING WITH JAZZ GREATS LIKE WYNSTON MARSALIS. THESE DAYS HE TOURS THE WORLD WITH THE SINGER MADELEINE PEYROUX, AS WELL AS WRITING AND PERFORMING WITH THE KILLERS FRONTMAN, BRANDON FLOWERS. IT ALL STARTED WITH HIS FIRST KIT, A GIFT FROM HIS FATHER, ALSO A DRUMMER. “IT WAS HUGE, MY DAD’S OLD PREMIER RESONATOR WHICH WEIGHED A TON,” HE REMEMBERS. “I COULD BARELY REACH THE PEDALS. IT WAS A RUSTY GOLD COLOR AND SOUNDED LIKE THUNDER. HE WOULD SHOW ME THE BASICS AS I SAT ON HIS KNEE.” HE PROMISED HIS MOM THAT ONE DAY HE WOULD PLAY CARNEGIE HALL. THEN, IN 2008, THE DREAM CAME TRUE. WAS IT THE LUCK OF THE IRISH? OR PURE TALENT? BECKETT THINKS IT’S A COMBINATION OF THE TWO, AS WELL AS DOING WHAT YOU LOVE. NATURALLY, HIS MOM WAS VERY PROUD.

What’s the greatest drum solo you have ever witnessed live?

Elvin Jones at the Blue Note in NY. He was on an oxygen machine, and he didn’t have long to live. He touched my soul and everyone’s in the room.

Who was your drumming inspiration growing up?

My Dad, Keith Moon, John Bonham, Stewart Copeland, Elvin Jones, Buddy Rich, Steve Gadd.

Is there a personality trait that is common to drummers?

We tend to be a little nuts. I certainly lived up to that in my twenties when I was in this indie shoegazer band. I thought I was Keith Moon after seven pints of Guinness. Being a wild man didn’t always fit the vibe.

The gift of rhythm and timing is almost inexplicable, and so rare. Do you think it can be taught, and if so, how?

I think it’s a combination of the two. And of course, it’s something you have to practice. Listening is key to everything. Using a metronome can improve your timing, as can playing along to pivotal albums. Ultimately, I believe ‘feel’ and ‘groove’ are an expression of your personality and soul.

What has been the most formative live performance experience of your life?

It would have to be playing at Carnegie Hall in 2008. My Mother used to say when I was a wee lad in Belfast, “Son, the only way get to Carnegie Hall is practice, practice and practice!” A formative one that inspired me would have to be Paul Simon in Belfast, Rhythm of the Saints tour. Session great, Steve Gadd was playing drums and I met him briefly afterwards. I was 13 years old.

How did your relationship with Brandon Flowers come about?

I met Brandon 10 years ago when The Killers were just starting. We were both in London. I was with my band, Ambulance Ltd, and he still reminds me that I was a very “confident person”. We ended up supporting The Killers on many tours. He called me up in 2009 and said he wanted me to play drums on his solo album. He’s a great person and unbelievable songwriter singer and performer. I was recently in Vegas working on some new material with him.

Tell us a story about working with Lauryn Hill.

I remember we had a show in Senegal, West Africa. We rehearsed at Youssou n’Dour’s studio. He’s pop royalty over there. She didn’t show up for any rehearsals. But, she would call our hotel room at 3am to rehearse in her room. I would bang on plates and glasses with spoons. It was hilarious. We had this huge studio, but she wanted to rehearse in her hotel room. She was a bit of a night owl.

You lived in Cologne, Germany for a while. What are the main differences in attitudes towards music in Europe compared with the US?

I think the main difference is musicians are respected more in Europe. Conditions are usually better, clubs have better dressing rooms, nice catering, they really go the extra mile. Music like Jazz is more respected. After all, it’s America’s classical music, and America doesn’t seem to care much. Oh, and the tour buses have wifi.

You are touring with Madeleine Peyroux, whose voice has been compared to Billie Holiday’s. How do you drum to complement a beautiful female vocal?

Playing softer than soft, I use brush sticks a lot which are wire brushes that sweep across the snare drum. You have to listen and make sure you don’t breath too loud, because that can be louder than your playing sometimes! You are trying to compliment the singer, to make them sound better. They do what they do, just don’t get in the way. And of course, smile.

 

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ROSSON CROW

Rosson Crow’s paintings, usually large and based loosely on haunting historical events or locales, have a brash, moody fullness to them. In her 2008 painting, “Lincoln’s Funeral,” the wheel of a dark carriage lurks in the shadows, beside blurred U.S. flags and behind drooping bouquets of pink roses and  yellw- white drips that recall sputtering fireworks. Her 2011 exhibition Ballyhoo Hullabaloo Haboob, at L.A.’s Honor Fraser gallery focused on mythic American tragedies, and included the black-and-white painting “Jackie’s Strength,” where a multitude of flowers blur together into a tornado-like swell on what must be the White House lawn.

Crow, who grew up in Dallas, moved to New York to attend the School of Visual Arts in 2000 and appeared in her first major exhibition, the elaborate K48 Klubhouse at Deitch Projects in 2003, before she had received her BFA. She enrolled in Yale in 2004, graduated with an MFA in painting in 2006 and moved to Los Angeles that same year. Since then, she’s become a staple of this city’s art scene—she’s always dressed memorably, in bright prints, leotards r vintage ruffles, and usually smiling.

Though she worked out of a downtown studio when she first arrived, she now works out of a barn-like building adjacent to her Laurel Canyon home—“I always wanted to live on a farm,” she told us. The day we visited her, she had just returned from Coachella, where she had seen the rapper 2 Chainz perform in the exact same Jeremy Scott print she had been wearing at the time, a testament to her taste’s eccentric range. We spoke with her about painting, style and living as an artist.

How do you pick the themes of your exhibitions?

It is all pretty organic. Most of my work comes out of the love of history and researching historical places and events. I’m very interested in how time changes the way we view these events, and how histories get layered onto one another. I enjoy the process of excavating that history, finding the hidden spirits underneath.

When you paint, are you meticulous? Or do you paint freely and see what happens?

I am definitely more of a “free” painters…I always start off with a loose plan but I like to allow for things to happen that cannot be planned out. If you let the painting work its own magic, it will teach you things.

Like your paintings, you have a very unique style—wigs, Sequin leotards , showgirl headdresses. What  influences your your personal style?

I have always loved to dress up ever since I was a child, and I have always loved the idea of “glamour.” Like with painting, I often look to historical time periods for my fashion inspiration, whether it is 1920’s flapper, 1960’s show girl or [a women in] Civil War era mourning gown.

 

 

Do you see your paintings as stages?

I do see my paintings as theatrical, but not always a stage. I like to make the spaces large enough so the viewer can enter and experience them. In a way, [the viewers] are more like characters in the painting [than I am].

In the last 10 years, since your inclusion in Deitch Projects’ Kult 48 Klubhouse, how has your work changed?

I think the work has more depth to it now. I think much more about what is really behind the paintings… An artist always has to be questioning oneself in order to grow, so I try to do that.

In your last exhibition at Honor Fraser, Ballyhoo Hullabaloo Haboob, the paintings were monochromatic—is this a new direction for you?

I think that work was just asking to be monochromatic. The subject matter was very dark and the inclusion of bright colors didn’t make sense to me, so, again, it happened organically. I’ve been working on paintings with more color now!

In various interviews, you’ve said that you respect artists who have no fear, and that it is important to be fearless as an artist. Why?

Well, it’s sometimes scary to put yourself out there. I guess what I mean is it is OK to feel the fear but to not let it limit you.

Do you think you are a fearless artist?

I try to be, but it’s only human to have fears. What matters is how well you push through it.

 

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MAST BROTHERS

There is something magical about a candy factory. Whether it’s the tour you took of the Hershey’s plant during a family trip to Amish country or that formative teenage acid trip in your best friend’s basement watching Willy Wonka—staring into a massive, spinning sugary vortex of creamy dark chocolate is one of the few glimpses behind the curtain of industrial production that is amazing, not disgusting. But there’s something even better: watching small batches of supremely luscious cocoa batter churn in simple, carefully watched gallon drums inside the Brooklyn factory of the Mast Brothers.

The image of chocolate makers Rick and Michael Mast toiling at their craft is a whimsical one, like elves in their workshop. They lug big burlap bags of unprocessed beans. They stand over unfinished bars sprinkling them with gold leaf. They  tend to their pots in pressed white linens and their extruding red beards covered with hairnets. And they gingerly stack their store shelves with the finished product, dark rectangular bars wrapped in handsome, hand-printed paper labels that feel like the hefty paper stock butchers use to wrap pork chops. The operation is clearly a labor of love; a hobby that’s become something more, propelled by a fierce commitment to cocoa craftsmanship and a Wonka-like obsession.

“A lot of creative people are always trying to reconnect with their curiosity—childlike curiosity,” Rick Mast says in a video documentary posted to Vimeo by The Scout magazine. “I think that maybe [we] as chocolate makers are constantly trying to reconnect with that more than your average person.” out to elevate the candy bar to a graceful, storied object decked out in plaid, gingham and pastoral prints. Mast Brothers deals mostly in single-origin chocolate, which is to say they know where their beans come from because they’re grown on a single estate. It’s an attention to detail now familiar to most coffee drinkers, a way of coaxing complexities out of what’s otherwise become a commodity product. But it’s a relatively new approach to snacking for most eaters whose relationship to chocolate is keeping a sweet treat in the freezer door for after dinner. Theirs are bars of handcrafted riches. There’s the Dominican Republic, a dense chocolate that’s uber-rich and earthy tasting, and there’s the sweeter Brooklyn Blend, a tangy and balanced bar that one could mistake for an agave coco latte. Even the more gimmicky flavors work well, including their “Dark Chocolate with Chili Peppers,” which starts off sweet and almost creamy but ends in a building, low-grade burn from serrano chilies and ended up being the most addictive of the bunch.

The company has grown quickly, opening a second retail location in New York and now boasting a backlog of online orders from all over. (Allow a week for delivery.) But like the food artisans we’ve become familiar with—those behind smallbatch coffee, liquor or handmade pickles—the Mast Brothers are peddling a luxury commodity that aspires to become a medium for something greater than just salty, savory or sweet. “The chocolate itself represents more than just a candy bar,” Rick tells the camera. “It represents a new way of handcrafting food—an old way that’s now new again.”

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LAWRENCE RINDER

In the third week of July, Lawrence Rinder returned from vacation to find a full-size van in the Berkeley Art Museum galleries. “I have no idea how this happened,” says Rinder, the museum’s director and the co-curator of its upcoming show. Last he heard, no vehicle that big would fit through any of the museum doors. “But I’m glad it did,” he says.

The van will be installed to look as if it crashed over one of the museum’s parapets and landed on its nose in the main atrium gallery. Standing on the back of the overturned van will be a tower of four animatronic taggers—standing on each others’ shoulders to reach up and spray paint an upper balcony. There will also be a life-size replica of a bodega, some early prints and drawings, and a number of older and newer wall-hanging works, like McGee’s “radically colorful clusters of paintings that boil and bump, extruding from the wall like a life form,” Rinder describes. All this is part of the soon-to-open Barry  McGee retrospective, for which Citizens of Humanity is a presenting sponsor.

Even though Rinder was working in the Bay Area in the 1980s, when McGee began making art in the streets of San Francisco, McGee didn’t grab his attention until years later. In 2001, Rinder had moved from the Bay Area to New York to work for the Whitney and was curating the museum’s 2002 biennial exhibition of new American art. He planned to include Margaret Kilgallen, a “Mission School” artist like McGee—McGee, Kilgallen and a few others acquired that name because they worked on walls and buildings on and around San Francisco’s Mission Street. Kilgallen had been McGee’s wife until her death from cancer just months earlier. So it was McGee who arrived to rebuild and install her work, which meant he and Rinder worked closely together. Seven years later, after Rinder returned to the museum world after a brief hiatus and become the director of the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive, he began planning the McGee retrospective.

Rinder gravitates toward artists like McGee, artists who invalidate high-low, street-gallery divides so effectively that few, even among the snootiest of art connoisseurs, can discount them as “serious” regardless of where their art appears. Rinder has worked with plenty of artists the establishment loves, of course: Louise Bourgeois, Tim Hawkinson and Felix Gonzalez- Torres. But he also spent time in Papua New Guinea learning about the tapa painting of the Maisin tribe, championed little known, reclusive quilt artist Rosie Lee Tompkins and was the first Whitney curator to travel to Puerto Rico to visit an artist’s  studio.

“Museums labor under tremendous institutional inertia,” Rinder wrote in an essay in his 2005 book, Art and Life. “For the viewer, however, change can be instantaneous, as swift as the opening of one’s eyes.” For this reason, it’s a curator’s job—Rinder’s job—to challenge those worn-out high versus low distinctions. Why can’t you go to a museum and see painted cloth from Papua New Guinea hanging next to a mural by a San Francisco street artist? Couldn’t such a juxtaposition, seemingly so simple, change the way a viewer thinks about geography, taste and themselves in relation to the rest of the world? And isn’t that the whole point?

Rinder came to this position through trial and error, much like he came to art in the first place. Growing up in the East Village in the 1970s, he had dreams of becoming a lawyer. His father thought otherwise, and when Rinder tells the story, it’s so counterintuitive you think he must be joking. He wanted to go to college but his father said no, and offered to helphim fund his education only if he wanted to live in Greenwich and apprentice informally with poets there. He rebelled at first, enrolling in Reed College in Oregon, but his father’s disapproval affected him so much he dropped out. He moved to New York and enrolled in the School of Visual Arts (SVA), a place more to his dad’s liking.

In his time at SVA, he overlapped with Jean-Michel Basquiat and studied with visceral artist-choreographer Simone Forti, performer Joan Jonas and film critic Amy Taubin. He saw the graffiti scene emerge on the Lower East Side. But none of these brushes with New York art-world greatness kept him from returning to Reed after two years, with no real plan other than a vague ambition to work in TV. He was struggling to find work acting or even waiting tables when a friend from college said, “Why don’t you talk to my mother?”

This friend’s mother happened to be Alexandra Anderson, editor of the magazine Art and Antiques. The day Rinder met with her, he had just told her he might want to work in museums when a call came in from Philip Yenawine. Yenawine ran the education department at the Museum of Modern Art. He was looking for someone to help him bring art to schools, and that’s how Rinder began traveling from one New York City school to another, with a collection slides in tow. “It was kind of like Mission Impossible,” he recalls. “I’d be told, ‘P.S. 29 wants to know about Futurism.’” At first, he approached his job solemnly, like a scholar. “I’d put up a slide of Cezanne, for example, and start to explain the brush strokes,” he says, “but it only took one or two classes to break me of this habit. What interests people is what matters to their lives.”

It’s been over 25 years, yet he clearly remembers the feeling he had when he presented art to youth so that they “got it.” He started wondering what could happen if he presented art to the public in museum galleries. He enrolled in Hunter College’s Art History department, received his Master’s degree from  there, took a curatorial internship at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis and then secured his first job as assistant curator of the Matrix Program at the Berkeley Art Museum, a program that features small exhibitions of new or experimental work. He stayed in Berkeley for a decade. That’s where he learned how to be brave, to let himself respond to art gutturally.

Rinder gives artist and writer Nayland Blake credit for teaching him the art of curatorial bravery. In 1994, when Rinder still worked in the Matrix Program, the two of them curated a show together, hoping to capture the lively energy of the San Francisco queer community. Rinder’s instinct was to lay out the important issues and then choose work that addressed these. “But Blake relied on the logic of seduction. He approached  curating as a ‘surrealist game,’ assuming that through juxtaposing different artworks, we could reveal truths,” Rinder remembers. “I found a lot of power in that understanding.”

This instinct-driven approach baffled the New York art world when Rinder began curating the 2002 Biennial. So did the fact that he traveled all over the United States, visiting artists he’d heard about and looking for ones he hadn’t. “Why bother  to go outside of Chelsea?” one New York art insider asked him in complete seriousness, and days before the Biennial opened, Newsweek critic Peter Plagens published a profile of Rinder that mused on the curator’s “unabashed enthusiasm for stuff that’s way outside the fine-arts box.” Plagens titled his article “This Man Will Decide What Art Is,” suggesting that Rinder hadn’t relied on institutional precedent at all and he had “decided” that artists who weren’t necessarily “museum artists” belonged in his show.

Rinder stayed at the Whitney until 2006, when he took a job as dean of California College of the Arts. He thought he might happily stay in academia, until the directorship at the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive opened up four years ago. He already knew the museum’s collection and many of the board members. He also believed he would be able to champion the kind of smart, experimental, audience-aware shows he cared about.

Rinder doesn’t curate many of the shows at the museum—his role as director keeps him busy with fundraising, building and programming concerns—but the Barry McGee exhibition is different. It’s a project he’s dreamed of doing for years with an artist who, like Rinder, sees no clear division between art and daily life. McGee comes to the galleries nearly every day and, in the run-up to the show’s opening, Rinder and his co-curator Dena Beard, are keeping a careful balance between intervening and letting McGee be. It’s more like McGee is remaking himself for this exhibition than re-presenting past work.

When the Barry McGee retrospective opens on August 24, it will begin with intricate, careful drawings. McGee began his career making such drawings and prints, and his remarkable draftsmanship might surprise viewers who associate him with a “street” aesthetic but have never really looked at his handwork up-close. The first galleries will also include some cluster pieces. In these, McGee’s small paintings of elongated, cartoonish heads or loose lettering are framed and hung close together so that together they look like a single, awkward body. Then, in subsequent galleries, you will see McGee’s mid-career work, ambitious sculptures, like the bodega and tower of taggers.

But at the end, the show will come full circle. You will encounter McGee’s most recent renderings, gorgeous patterns and figures surprisingly similar to those he drafted decades ago. These will be installed alongside drawings by McGee’s own father on napkins, which the the artist kept all these years for inspiration, and you will likely leave thinking about how baffling yet beautiful it is that life can have so much continuity despite all the detours and discoveries that shape it.

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MARK MAHONEY

“Where the underworld and the elite meet” is the slogan for the Shamrock Social Club, a tattoo parlor that mixes street-shop values with the glamour associated with its Hollywood location. The slogan also applies to its proprietor, Mark Mahoney, who is a master of fine-line black-and-gray tattoos and the person  celebrities such as David Beckham and Lady Gaga go to for new ink.

Mahoney’s road to success began in Boston. As a teenager, he gravitated toward the city’s underground punk scene, hanging with a greaser gang and beginning to cultivate his signature look. Tattooing was illegal in his home state, so the gang had to go to Rhode Island to get tattooed. “As soon as I walked into Buddy Mott’s tattoo shop in Rhode Island, I knew that was what I needed to do,” Mahoney told Inked magazine in an interview. “It was like an epiphany. I could always draw, and I knew I was going to end up doing something with art, but not until I walked in there did I know for sure. It took me awhile for somebody to give me a machine, but the seed was planted right then and there. It never wavered. I never wanted to be a rock star or anything after that. I wanted to be a tattooer.”

One of the older guys from his neighborhood, Mark Herlehy, had joined the Navy and brought back some tattoo equipment from his travels. He let Mahoney do his first tattoo on him, a back piece. “It was more like half a back piece,” Mahoney laughs.

Mahoney started tattooing professionally in 1977, but because the art was still illegal, tattooing was relegated to the underground. He tattooed in a motorcycle clubhouse in Boston, then went New York’s Lower East Side, and finally settled in California in 1980. “It was really the first time I saw the fine-line, black-and-gray tattoo stuff,” Mahoney told Inked. “I think I had seen one fine-line tattoo that Johnny Thunders had. It was just some initials that I think Bob Roberts did on him. I had never seen any of that East L.A. black-and-gray shading until I got here. I flipped my wig when I saw that.”

For tattooers at this time, the West Coast was the prime location for a revolution in the trade. From Southern to Northern California, inventive styles were being refined and new standards were being set. Don Ed Hardy and Lyle Tuttle lead a charge, but they weren’t alone. As Hardy was redefining Western conceptions of Japanese tattooing, Leo Zulueta was pioneering his own vision of neo-tribal, and in East L.A., Jack Rudy and Charlie Cartwright were turning a prison-born single needle style into a legitimate niche. Of course, the legendary Pike in Long Beach was still a bastion of classi American styles, and tattoos produced in shops owned by Bert Grimm and Bob Roberts were inspirations for Mahoney.

 

 

 

He tattooed at various shops in the Southland, including Tattooland in East L.A., and eventually landed in Hollywood, where he opened Shamrock on the Sunset Strip in 2001. “I worked hard at it,” Mahoney says in his Just Like You video for Citizens of Humanity. “Find out what you want to do and work hard at it. I’ve been working six or seven nights a week for 35 years because I love it. There’s nothing else I’d rather be doing.”

Mahoney speaks slowly, deliberately, and with a slight air of mystery. He maintains a tough exterior, but Mahoney is friendly, charming and completely genuine. When Johnny Depp met him for the first time, years ago, Depp said in a video, “It was clear to me that he was, without question, the real deal.”

Mahoney’s personal style mixes rockabilly pomp with classic Hollywood, and is influenced by Dean Martin, Willy DeVille and Robert Evans. And his style has captured the attention of the fashion elite—from designing clothes for Betsey Johnson in the 1980s to a 2011 campaign for Yves Saint Laurent.

Through hard work and dedication, Mahoney has become an icon, a fixture on Sunset Strip, and has stories of visits from actors, rock stars and rappers—just days before his death, the Notorious B.I.G. visited Mahoney for a tattoo of a Bible psalm.

Despite all his success, Mahoney still revels in being at the shop. “One of the things about the process that I love, is that while I’m doing it, I can get into the spot where I’m not thinking, I’m not feeling, it’s kind of like a spiritual state,” he says. “People mediate for years, trying to get themselves to that zone, that by the grace of God I’m lucky enough to get into just about every night.”

Being around other artists at the shop, such as Freddy Negrete and Rick Walters, also encourages Mark to push himself as an artist. “I really feel like I’m still learning, and it’s constant and ongoing, and I don’t feel like I’m half as good as I want to be,” he says. “I’ve succeeded in some things, but I feel like I’m just getting started in all this.”

 

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WAYNE LEVIN

Photographer Wayne Levin, long celebrated for his gorgeously luminous underwater images of surfers and sea life, came of age seeing pictures all around him. From the time he received his first Brownie camera for his 12th birthday, he began viewing the world in terms of the way it could be broken down into separate frames. “I remember always driving around with my family in the car, looking at the world through the viewfinder of the camera,” Levin says by phone from his home in Hawaii. “I was kind of entranced by that. I always loved trains, and the way you’d look out a train window and see a rectangle that would contain the world as it went by, like re-creating the experience of looking through the camera.”

Always a fan of the beach and fishing with friends while growing up in Los Angeles, Levin became even more devoted to the ocean as a teen when his family got a sailboat. Yachts and sailboats were among his earliest models. At age 16, he took what he considered his first masterpiece: a photograph of a sailboat’s mast reflected in the water. “It was kind of an abstract image that said something about the water’s surface, and the way light and reflected light plays on it,” Levin says. “That was the first photograph I felt was really a success.”

No matter where life took him, Levin never put down his camera. After high school, he attended Brooks Institute of Photography in Santa Barbara for two years before leaving to become active in the civil rights movement. Facing the draft, he enlisted in the navy. Although unable to join their photography unit, as he had hoped, he credits these years with inspiring his lifelong love  of travel, which became another major influence on his work. Also, during a trip to Japan while in the navy, he acquired his first Nikon. Photographing under all different circumstances, he honed an approach that mixes planning and fluidity. “I’d say it’s one third luck, tenacity and ideas,” he says. “And being open to new things happening.”

When Levin’s family moved to Hawaii, he joined them there after his discharge from the navy in 1968. He soon began surfing and body surfing and lost whole days to catching waves. This obsession entrenched his passion for the ocean even more. He acquired a Nikonos IV underwater camera in 1983 and began taking his iconic underwater photos of surfers, which have a euphoric beauty and transcendence that goes far beyond a goal of rendering their subjects in an artistic way. “What I’m trying to do is communicate the mystery of the ocean, rather than describe the ocean,” Levin says. “[My work has] really given me a love for the ocean, and I know a lot about how threatened the ocean is. Maybe I don’t really feel like I’ve yet communicated that part of it as strongly as I would like to, and I’ve been thinking about how I can do that in an even more powerful way. The idea of just shooting beautiful pictures of something and saying that’s going to help protect it, I  don’t know if I buy that.”

 

Wayne Levin - Humanity Magazine

 

Wayne Levin - Humanity Magazine

 

Over the years, Levin has continued to develop his knowledge of photography, both as a student and a teacher, studying at the San Francisco Art Institute and Pratt Institute, and teaching at the University of Hawaii; La Pietra, Hawaii School for Girls, where he founded the photography program; and the Dayton Art Institute, where he was an artist-in-residence.

The range of subjects Levin has photographed in his nearly  six decades as a photographer has been vast, from the Leprosy Settlement at Kalaupapa on Molokai (which became two books,Kalaupapa: A Portrait and most recently, Ili Na Ho’omana’o o Kalaupapa) and the Hospice of Dayton to the Hawaiian island of Kaho’olawe, which became the photo book, Kaho’olawe: Na Leo O Kanaloa .

Always questing to improve and expand his work, Levin remains devoted to black-and-white film for his underwater images, but has begun using a digital camera for his other photos. As with everything else in his artistic life, his decision is based on a thoughtful and studied contemplation of the art form. “I think the spirit of the photograph is communicated just as well in a good digital print as it is in a darkroom print,” he says. “There is a little bit of difference because the digital print is ink on paper, so it’s more on the surface, while the darkroom print is particles of silver suspended in a layer on the surface of the paper, but the  difference is really small.”

Having by this point traversed the globe several times over, always with his beloved camera, and always in search of images that communicate something of both beauty and substance, Levin has accumulated quite a life’s work. “Photography is kind of like a passport to special experiences, special places, so I’m  really grateful to have had that,” Levin says.

 

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JENNILEE MARIGOMEN

 Jennilee Marigomen’s work suggests that she’s a keen observer of her surroundings.

There are plenty of stolen moments. A car’s windshield reflecting a dreamy light. A cigarette in a puddle of leaves. Three pretzels stacked on a vendor’s cart. The Vancouver-based photographer describes her work as “quiet, aware and unassuming.” She adds, “Intimate and distant at the same time. Ephemeral.”

Her work is deceptively simple. To capture the mundane and the magical at the same time is a talent. “I think that a lot of my photos capture a familiar yet specific truth that is common to everyone,” she says. “Something that you can look back to and feel at that moment in time, everywhere and every day.”

Jennilee remembers the first photo she took that made her happy, that made her think, Maybe I’ve got something here. It was in 2008, on her way home from Stanley Park, when she “came across crepuscular light rays filtering through the branches of a tree and onto the wall of an apartment building. The stunning display of light and shadows wavered in the wind, and slowly  faded in and out. I was completely engaged by this momentary image, even though it was just a simple occurrence that happened  at the same time every day.”

She first experimented with photography in high school when she was given a 35mm Nikon camera. Though she joined the photo club and became enthralled with the darkroom, she says she shot  here and there but didn’t really know what she was doing. Fashion then became her focus, so it wasn’t until four years ago that she bought a digital camera, and in learning how to use it, she found  her way back to 35mm photography.

In a short period, she’s won the Magenta Foundation’s Flash Forward Emerging Photographer Award and Dazed & Confused  magazine/Foam museum’s “What’s Next?” competition. She has released two books, Seconde Nature and Queen of Tsawassen . She also does commissioned work and is the photo editor of 01 Magazine , an online art, culture and fashion magazine.

When it comes to training, she is mostly self-taught and considers the work of other photographers the best learning tool. She has thoroughly embraced technology and social media, cataloging her work and inspirations on various blogs. One of those is Shooting Gallery, an online archive of photographers who talk about their  work.

“I love photography on the internet,” she says, referring to instagram as a daily practice. “The internet is a big part of how I learned, developed my style, got feedback and connected to others—other photographers and potential clients and collaborators.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some of her favorite photographers are Wolfgang Tillmans, Jason Fulford and Jason Nocito. She also draws inspiration from fine art, sculpture and design, and she’s interested in design for children, specifically mentioning the work of designer/artist/ polymath Bruno Munari’s illustrated children’s books. As an avid walker throughout her native city, she likes to put on headphones and set out to find what she finds.

Unsurprisingly, she is eager to travel and stumble on new tableaus. She camps along the coast of the Pacific Northwest frequently, in surf spots like Tofino, British Columbia and La Push, Washington. She calls them places “with a mysterious fog over their bodies of water,” she says. “The forests are so green and lush, unlike anywhere I have ever been. I run on ‘island time’ when I’m at those places. I look at things more closely, and for a long time.”

But even when she goes farther afield, like to Mexico for her 2012 “Window Seat” series for Inventory magazine, she brings with her  a distinct eye. “I think that my aesthetic and sensibilities stay consistent wherever I go, and my images stay, for the most part, calm and introspective.”

When she’s the viewer, she is drawn to work that has the “individual  viewpoint, spirit and sensibility of the person taking the photos. I love it when I can look at a series of photos by someone and can tell that they have a great sense of humor. You can get a sense of people who are like-minded. I like that honesty.”

If there’s a message to convey in her work, she’s not particularly concerned with it. “The images that resonate with me are the ones that embrace a certain kind of ambiguity and leave room  for interpretation,” she says. “The only response I want from the viewer is to feel something visceral.” An example is her photo of a deer stopped frozen in a suburban driveway. Startling? Sweet? Incongruous? It’s up to you.

As a photographer who loves spontaneity and serendipity, she still has to mix instinct with careful planning. When working for a fashion client, she has to meticulously plan the day—the shots, the environment, accommodations for weather and light, and each backdrop. But once the legwork is done, the rest just flows.

She admits she is sensitive visually, especially in tune to things  that are askew or amiss. “Whether it was caused by nature or a human, I find it very humorous in a playful way and try to show that in my photos. I see something out of place, I laugh quietly to myself and snap a photo.”

Most photographers imbue their work with their own personality, and the way Jennilee tells it, hers matches up quite succinctly. “I took a Myers Briggs Personality Test once and I am an ISFP— introverted, sensing, feeling, perceiving,” she says. “That type has dominant sensing and feeling characteristics, takes in the world through their senses till no end, empathizes with everything, and  releases that with a creative outlet.”

Her plans for the near future are putting together a book on her photos of Mexico, and no doubt happening upon more simple, quiet and powerful moments.

When asked what she’s learned that she wished she knew starting out, she says simply, “My worth.”

 

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CAMILLE VIVIER

Viewing an image by Parisian photographer and video artist Camille Vivier is like taking a tumble down the rabbit hole, only to find that wonderland has gone steam punk. Gorgeous  and unsettling, displaying her celebrated deftness with light and shadows, her compositions take on classic fairy tales and iconography that have been rendered with a very modern edge. Having drawn early inspiration from her mother’s art books—with particular favorites including those by Paul Outerbridge, Robert Mapplethorpe and Guy Bourdin—and the many museum outings her parents organized for her, she studied fine arts in Paris and  at Central St. Martins in London. She has since honed her talents while shooting advertising campaigns for Stella McCartney, Isabel Marant and Callaghan and while producing work for publications including Dazed & Confused, i-D, Liberation and Purple, where she got her start as an editorial assistant. She lives in Paris with her husband, artist Sanghon Kim, and their two children.

Many of your images have a fantastical quality. Do you feel drawn to represent an alternate reality? How do you come up with your vision for your photographic reality and then make a plan for bringing it to life?

My work is more a vision than a testimony, something shown through the prism of fantasy. I’ve always been interested in surrealism, their taste for the inner life: psychism, dreams, eroticism.

There’s also a literary aspect to my work: I do just as if I was writing a story, with a character, a plot, a background. And when it comes [time] to concretize what I have in mind, I just listen to myself.

Can you talk about a particular fairy tale or story that has influenced a photograph, and how the inspiration played out in the image?

I’ve always been fascinated by fantastic landscapes and places. In French, we called some of these 17th century Baroque gardens: Follies. There is this famous one in Italy called Bomarzo, the monster park, because it’s full of huge and fantastic creatures made of stone. The legend says that the count, Orsini, built it to scare the woman he loved and to keep her by his side. I wanted to give my own vision of a woman surrounded by monsters, just like I did with a woman standing in a cabinet of curios.

So I’ve found this amazing place with a rock that looks like a gigantic hand, a bit like King Kong’s hand. It looks like a cinematic scene, but even more like an old movie set picture.

I like this idea of confronting the female body with objects or natural elements, the idea of a female character in a strange situation. A projection of my own fantasies. I’ve recently pushed this idea by taking the picture of a woman naked in a concrete dinosaurs garden.

One of my greatest inspirations ever is André Pieyre de Mandiargues, a French writer who wrote kind of erotic fairy tales. But David Lynch, of course, and his very modern and peculiar vision of fairy tale, is also a big influence.

When you do a fashion shoot, what are you trying to communicate through your photos about the designer and clothes?

I’m trying to play with their style, but the idea is more to do a good picture.

How is your process for creating moving images similar or different from your process for still photos?

 It was different before, as I wasn’t comfortable with movement and the directing aspect of film. I feel more free now to do film  as I want, like an extension of my photographic work.

How do you think you finally became more comfortable directing film? Was their a breakthrough project or moment?

I think that I haven’t any hang-ups with the idea of doing film, and I went back to my early inspirations in experimental film:  Kenneth Anger, Man Ray, Maya Deren. For now, I feel that I haven’t been able to express exactly what I want in film. It’s a next step.

Do you feel a part of a larger community of artists, designers and thinkers in Paris right now? If so, how do you inform each other’s work?

There are lots of interesting photographers in Paris and good independent publishers too, lots of emerging artists. A good friend of mine is Estelle Hanania, who is a talented photographer. My husband, Sanghon Kim, is a graphic designer and a film director. I would say that it’s something familiar and natural to be with creative people. Otherwise I’m more of a solitary person, at least in my work.

What’s next for you?

A book, Veronesi Rose, published by Shelter Press, a personal exhibition at Galerie fur Moderne Fotografie in Berlin, next  January.

 

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BOB MELET

IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT HIS BY-APPOINTMENT ONLY SHOWROOM IN NEW YORK’S SOHO DISTRICT, WHICH OPENED IN 2003, HAS BECOME A HUB FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS, STYLISTS AND COLLECTORS, KEEN TO GET A GLIMPSE OF THE CONSTANTLY EVOLVING WORLD OF TREASURES THAT MELET GATHERS FROM THE FOUR CORNERS OF THE GLOBE AND PUTS ON DISPLAY. EVERY CORNER OF THE 2,800-SQUARE-FOOT SPACE PROVIDES A BACKDROP TO A COLLECTION OF RARE VINTAGE GARMENTS AND EPHEMERA WHICH HE GATHERS AND UPDATES EVERY TWELVE WEEKS. IT’S NO WONDER THE NEW YORK TIMES CALLED MELET MERCANTILE, “THE SHOWROOM OF SHOWROOMS,” AND PHOTOGRAPHER BRUCE WEBER SAID, “STEPPING INTO MELET MERCANTILE IS LIKE STEPPING INTO THE PERFECT APARTMENT.”

How long have you been a collector?

Since I was 14.

What got you into it?

I was surrounded by art and antiques and books that my family collected. I had a Grandma who was an interior decorator, and she was a pioneer, with impeccable taste. I always felt that collecting and having things was something that I was prone to. And I had turned that passion at a young age into a viable business by the time I was twenty.

How have your tastes changed over the years?

I’ve just gotten smarter and wiser.

Are you originally a New Yorker?

I am originally from Flint, Michigan.

How long have you been in New York?

I’ve been in New York for over 25 years. My family had an apartment at Madison and 37th street by the garment industry. When I was eight, my father brought me to the City for a trip. I went to The Palm for dinner and Serendipity 3 for dessert, and by the time we got back to the apartment I had told my parents I was moving to New York City.

What is it about New York? What do you love about it?

I am drawn by the creative talents and all the various industries that are based in New York, and the amount of international traffic that comes through here. So, for my business it seemed like the natural place to be. It’s where I always aspired to be. And actually, in the building we’re in, in Soho, is right above where back in the 80s some of the greatest antique dealers were.

What are the things you personally love to collect?

My wife and daughter and I, at this point we collect art and photography that’s obscure and found, based on our travels, mixed with aspirational art and photography that we covet and invest in. Because of the nature of the business we are in we get to meet a lot artists and photographers as clients, and develop our relationships with them. Through time we have cultivated those relationships and have been able to acquire their work by trade or other ways. So our personal collection is a combination of those things, and we cherish them all.

Is there anything in particular you’re in love with right now?

Right now, we’re collecting a lot of paintings. People always want to know what I keep and I sell…there are so many things that I love, that are painful to sell, but I always feel that to be great at what you’re doing you have to be willing to give it up. For me now, just focusing on paintings and photography is important. I love books and I have way too many of them. At this point I’m just focusing on important art.

Is it a good time to be an art lover in New York?

I think it’s always a good time to be an art lover! I’m glad there are a lot of people who are young and interested. The contemporary market is a funny market. Just buy what you love and you’ll be ok.

What’s your lifestyle like? How often are you out of town?

I work on a four season cycle and a yearly calendar. There are certain venues and places I go to every year, and then there are places I like to explore within a given year, each year. The lifestyle that I have and my family has isn’t “normal”. I liken it more to a musician that’s constantly on tour. We travel every month, and maybe that’s not for everybody, but I thrive on it.

 

 

What are the places in New York you love the most?

My free time is at the beach, where I get clarity. When I’m in the City if there are friends and colleagues with openings, I try to support that. This City is always full of that. I was in Paris last week, and it was full of happenings as well. So, wherever I am I always try to surround myself with people I enjoy working with.

What are some of your favorite items in the store right now?

People ask me that a lot, and there are so many cool things. My whole office is a collection of small things I’ve collected throughout my career, and I have assembled them in a very organized way. All of those things I find precious. It’s more a body of work, as the whole showroom is. To pinpoint one thing would be too difficult.

Any historical heroes?

Depends on different fields. Teddy Roosevelt, who is an ardent supporter of wildlife and nature and exploration, to Jacques Cousteau, to Picasso…those are some.

What’s the best part of what you do?

Meeting all the talented people that I get to provide things for. I deal in so many different sub cultures and worlds from art, to antiques, to textiles, to books…there are so many different great dealers who have been mentors through the years, and truly, knowing them has been the most memorable part of living this life.

 

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