JOHN BALDESSARI

Artist John Baldessari has spent a lifetime using wit, intellect and imagination to create an art of ideas. An art teacher before he became an art star, he has trained generations of high-profile contemporary artists to take risks with convention, much as he has. He is today an international celebrity, recipient of countless honors, including most recently a National Medal of Arts, awarded last fall. The revered artist has exhibited in more than 200 solo and 1,000 group shows and at 85 is still usually found at work in his spacious studio in Venice, California, his 6’7” frame folded into a chair behind a desk cluttered with books, magazines and work in progress. There, using photographs, painting and text, he carries on and reimagines the conceptual-art tradition of Marcel Duchamp.

 

John Baldessari - Humanity
Cutting Ribbon, Man in Wheelchair, Paintings, 1988/2007. Black and white photographs with vinyl paint. 76 x 36 inches

 

The studio is relatively spare but books are everywhere, from a Jackson Pollock biography to a book of short stories by David Foster Wallace. On the wall in front of him are several possible images for an exhibition next October at the Marian Goodman Gallery in New York, and at the far end of the wall a hat on a hook. “It belonged to Robert Downey Jr.,” Baldessari explains. “He said, ‘I’ll give you some art,’ and he gave me his hat.”

BARBARA ISENBERG: You’ve been creating art in Southern California since the ’60s, when Los Angeles’ place in the art world was very different. Being away from the limelight of New York, first in San Diego, then in Los Angeles, did you feel you could take more risks?

JOHN BALDESSARI: Well, that’s a good question. I think the risk-taking part of my life was when I was still living in National City, California. It’s a burg south of San Diego. Who’s ever heard of National City? It was beyond risk. Nobody was looking, so what did I care?

BI: When you started out, weren’t you a high school teacher, just having fun?

JB: Yes. Then one day in 1969 I was staring at this blank wall in my house in National City and thinking, “What’s the most bizarre thing I can do? I could make language the basis for art, get a canvas and have somebody else paint it.” And there you have conceptual art in a nutshell.

BI: You’ve come a long way from National City, exhibiting throughout the world ever since. You’ve also been based in Los Angeles much of that time. How has living and working in Los Angeles influenced your art?

JB: I always answer that question by saying that a shark is the last one to criticize salt water. If you’re immersed in something, you can’t see it.

BI: How is Los Angeles different now than it was?

JB: Things have changed. New York artists come out here and sniff around for shows. Europeans think of California as romantic, full of sunshine and palm trees; it’s cheaper to live here, and there’s better weather. In New York, you have more competition. I think it’s still more prestigious to have a show in New York than it is in Los Angeles, but that’s about it.

BI: Have you ever lived in New York?

JB: I was bicoastal for a while. I had an apartment in New York, but I couldn’t work there. I gave it up.

BI: When you were starting out, who influenced you?

JB: My touchstone is always Duchamp. I actually met John Cage when I was teaching at UC San Diego and he was in residence there. His book Silence was very influential to me. Philip Guston has always been a huge hero.

 

John Baldessari - Humanity
The Duress Series: Person Climbing Exterior Wall of Tall Building / Person on Ledge of Tall Building / Person on Girders of Unfinished Tall Building, 2003. Digital photographic print with acrylic on Sintra. 60 x 180 inches

 

BI: Was Andy Warhol an influence?

JB: Absolutely. Sure.

BI: They have something in common, don’t they—Duchamp, Cage and Warhol?

JB: Well, a certain kind of irreverence. If you think about Warhol’s main reputation at the time as illustrating children’s books, and someone told you that he would become such an iconic artist, you’d say “No chance.” But he was a very social animal, and he wanted attention.

BI: When you look around at artists you’ve taught over the years, so many of them went on to distinguished art careers of their own, such as David Salle, Barbara Bloom, Matt Mullican and James Welling. Do they influence you?

JB: Among the smartest is David Salle, who was one of my students at CalArts. He writes very clearly about art on interesting topics. David influences me.

BI: What has captured your attention lately?

JB: I’ve been very much influenced by Jackson Pollock and Thomas Hart Benton as his teacher. I haven’t gotten very far, but that’s what I’m working on now. The show will be painting and text.

BI: You’ve said many times in the past that the word and image are pretty much equal to you. Is that still the case?

JB: Yes, I still believe that.

BI: Yet what you do with the words and images keeps changing.

 

John Baldessari - Humanity
Tips for Artists Who Want to Sell, 1966-68. Acrylic on canvas. 68 x 56.6 inches

 

JB: Artists are artists because they don’t want to do the same art they’ve been doing, so they keep on pushing forward and experimenting. I keep on changing the work, and it will keep on changing. I don’t know how it will finally look. I have no idea.

BI: You told me once that you never wait for inspiration.

JB: It’s interesting how the mind works. I’m grappling with new work, and I sort of put myself to sleep trying out certain combinations in my mind, juxtaposing work by Thomas Hart Benton and Jackson Pollock. Quite often, like most good ideas at night, they’re rotten ideas in the morning. But I can’t think of nothing. I think it’s impossible to have a blank mind, so different things flash on your screen. Most of the time, it gets to this: If I were in my studio now, what would I be trying to do with these artists?

BI: You’ve also been buying art for the first time recently. How did that start?

JB: A painting by Giorgio Morandi was the first one, and it was instinctual. I was in New York, at David Zwirner Gallery, looking at things, and I just fell in love with it. I asked the price. He told me—I gulped, but I bought it.

BI: Well, that’s what money’s for.

JB: It is actually, in a way. Do you remember David Platzker? He used to work for me. He’s now a curator of drawings and prints at the Museum of Modern Art, and I figure more people would see a work there than they would in my studio. So I’ve bought certain artists’ works and just given them to him. When he’s looking for something, he’ll call me and ask, “Would you be up for buying this?” I thought it was better to give art away so more people could see it.

BI: Do you think of it as a way to give back?

JB: Yes, I think so. It’s a good use of money. I also have a foundation, and there are good people on the board. I said, “You give money to whoever you want. I trust you, and that’s why I have you on this board.” Last year we gave around $500,000 to artists and artist spaces, and I feel pretty good about that.

BI: So you’re buying art for yourself and giving away art?

JB: What else would I do with the money? My children are provided for. I’m building a Frank Gehry house.

BI: Does your fame get in the way of your art?

JB: Probably, in a bad way. The analogy is to somebody in prison. His natural instinct would be to try and escape, but if you treat him really well and feed him really well and give him better housing, he might think, “Why would I want to leave?”

BI: Do you ever think about your legacy?

JB: There’s a certain satisfaction to knowing you’re embedded in the history of art. I feel part of a tradition.

 

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DAVID BAILEY

The quintessential Cockney lad made good, David Bailey was a cheeky working-class tailor’s son when, in 1960, John Parsons, the art director of British Vogue, gave him a contract.

Aged 20, he was the youngest—and boldest—photographer in the history of the magazine, replacing its staid photographs of stiff, upper-class women in pearls with offbeat, playful shots of gamine beauties, his photos of Peggy Moffitt, Jean Shrimpton, and Penelope Tree going on to define London in the 1960s. Famously, Bailey became the inspiration for the rakish, jaded fashion photographer “Thomas” in Antonioni’s 1966 counter-culture classic Blow Up, and like Thomas, Bailey loved many iconic beauties—Jean Shrimpton was 18 when she became Bailey’s girlfriend, and Bailey, then 22, launched her career. He married Catherine Deneuve in 1965, took up with model Penelope Tree in 1972, then married Marie Helvin in 1974. For the last 32 years, he has been happily married; he’s been fortunate, he says, in that his loves have always had minds that match their looks. “Penelope Tree was a feminist,” he says on the phone from London. “And I’ve lived with Catherine Bailey, a feminist, for the last 30 years. I like strong women, and I like strong men.”

In a professional career spanning 58 years, Bailey has trained his eye on much more than fashion, his lens drawn to models, monks and murderers alike. “It’s not my place to make moral judgments,” he says. Two of his subjects, Reg and Ron Kray, for instance, were identical-twin gangsters once described as the most dangerous men in Britain, whom Bailey photographed in the ’60s. He has printed some of those photographs in Bailey’s East End, featuring his famous shot of the Krays each holding a snake, among many more. “The snakes were named after the policemen that were trying to arrest them,” says Bailey. Included are some of his photos from Reggie Kray’s 1965 wedding to 21-year-old Frances Shea—the first wedding Bailey ever shot (the second was much more recent—Jerry Hall’s to Rupert Murdoch). “Reg asked me to do it, and you know … it’s difficult to refuse Reg, and I quite liked him,” says Bailey. Fifteen years before the wedding, the Krays had supposedly slashed Bailey’s father’s face with a razor—wasn’t he angry with them? “No. It wasn’t personal. My dad was a kind of jack the lad, anyway.”

Such was life in Bailey’s East End, a dystopic Cockney bubble where everybody had to “make the best of things in order to survive,” with varying success. Bleach-blonde “Aunt Dollies” (“everyone had an Aunt Dolly,” says Bailey) lightened the mood with their gins and tonics and songs over out-of-tune pub pianos. “East End women didn’t all look like Jean Shrimpton,” says Bailey. Growing up in East Ham, East London, he played among the rubble that remained during the Nazi bombings, bringing home shrapnel. Coming from the bottom of Britain’s rigid class system, there were few life choices available to him. “If you had an accent like mine, you weren’t accepted by society,” he says. “But in the end there were just too many working class to ignore.”

 

David Bailey - Humanity
“A photo that came to light just recently from the Archive” East End, 1961

 

Bailey became part of a tidal wave of Cockney success stories in the 1960s. “Myself, Terry Stamp, Michael Caine, my old mate Mick [Jagger]…Mick was best man to one of my weddings.” As Bailey grew into one of London’s biggest success stories, the eye of the East End remained upon him … and his upon it. There’s no place like home, after all. Once in conversation Reggie said to Bailey, “Dave, I wish I could have done it legit like you.” He thought that was quite an endearing thing to hear, from someone with a violent background.

Monographs, for Bailey, are his way of keeping a journal of his life. The first one he published,  Box of Pin Ups (1965), is extremely valuable now—copies have sold for up to £20,000 at auction. And he’s currently working on two more, to follow Bailey’s East End. One is about tribal headhunters in Nagaland, a state in northeast India; the other he doesn’t want to talk about yet. As long as he continues to build and re-examine his archive, he’ll carry on making books, shooting mostly on film, as he always has. “I’ll shoot digital if I’m jumping out of helicopters in Afghanistan, trying to get quick shots, but that’s it,” he says. “As for Instagram, forget it. I don’t even know what an Instagram filter is.”

Iconic as his photographic oeuvre may be, that’s just one of many ways he explores the world. “Photography is just part of the deal, an instrument,” he says, adding that he likes to make bronze sculptures, and worked on a painting this morning—“it’s of a woman with a pussy and a dick.” He got up early and set up his easel in the back yard of his new home, a converted church in London. “Looks like I’m going to die in a church after all,” he jokes. At least he’ll go to heaven, we point out. “I’m not sure,” he replies. “All the fun people go to the other place.”

 

David Bailey - Humanity
Charlie Papier, Danny O’Conner and David Bailey. “I grew up with Irish and Jews” © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
Stratford 1960s © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
Agnes, Bailey’s Mother in Kitchen. Late 1950s © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
East End docks being pulled down in the 1980s © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
East End docks being pulled down in the 1980s © David Bailey

 

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Stepney Green, East End, 2000s © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
East End, 2000s © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
Bow Road, East End, 2000s © David Bailey

 

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“White Spirit” Upton Park Church 2010 © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
Catherine Bailey. Fashion shoot for Bailey’s magazines RITZ. Royal Docks East London, 1983 © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
From a series of paintings called Hitler Killed The Duck. When the Odeon cinema was bombed by a V2. I was 6 and half when this happened. I thought Hitler had killed Bambi and Mickey Mouse. 2008 © David Bailey

 

David Bailey - Humanity
Kray Twins at a safe house in East London, 1968 © David Bailey

 

 

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JR

To describe someone as a “contradiction” is to capitulate to one of the laziest clichés in the journalistic handbook. Within everyone lies some measure of opposing impulses. To varying degrees we are all saints and sinners, con artists and trusting souls, self-aggrandizers and humble servants. To call anyone, especially someone who creates things for a living, a living contradiction is simply to call them human.

But there’s also a sneaky brilliance, as well as a deep well of inspiration, in those whose creative identity is borne in the embrace of contradiction, by identifying themselves as a product of opposing forces. Warhol, Dylan, Hunter S. Thompson, Kanye West—for them, inspiration lay in the blurring of traditional aesthetic boundaries. The French artist JR is a proud heir to that aesthetic tradition. He and his work exist in a liminal space, between authorship and appropriation, anonymity and self-promotion, outsider and insider.

It is both the source of JR’s creative output and the origin of his astonishing rise from teenage tagger in the working-class suburbs of Paris to perhaps one of the most visible global artists working today. He has never received anything in the way of formal training, yet his visually striking work, the best known of which consists of giant “flypasted” black-and-white photographs of the disenfranchised mounted on building walls within their own neighborhoods, has become something of a global phenomenon. In 2011, after winning the $100,000 TED Prize for being an “individual with a creative, bold vision to spark global change,” JR used the entirety of his winnings to fund the Inside Out Project, which recruits regular citizens to create their own JR-style black-and-white portraits, which are then emailed to JR’s studio, printed and sent back to their creators to mount in their own environments. To date, more than 300,000 Inside Out portraits have been shipped and mounted in 129 countries, including some of the most war-torn, conflict-heavy zones in the world.

JR’s gorgeous duplex art studio is found in a downtown Manhattan brownstone that he doesn’t own or lease—it was bequeathed to him for a one-year art residency soon after he won the TED Prize. After being greeted outside by his assistant, Lucca, I’m led through a lobby and into the upstairs loft, which is rife with activity. Half a dozen assistants are at work on a variety of tasks, including printing out 36-by-53-inch photos that have arrived from around the world via the Inside Out Project and preparing them to be sent back to their creators to be pasted in their neighborhoods. I’m then taken downstairs, where I find a few more members of team JR preparing giants digital print-outs of his work. In the corner, in front of a desktop computer, sits JR.

Gone are the signature shades and the hat, replaced by a buzz cut and a pair of traditional eyeglasses. Had Lucca not introduced us, I’d have had no idea this was him. In person JR is engaging, passionate and truly inspiring. After recounting a funny anecdote about hiring an anxious Uber driver in Rio for a trip into the drug- and gang-ravaged favelas, where he maintains an art center for the impoverished local population, he shifts the conversation to the macros of his operations. He tells me that the New York studio, which clearly requires a tremendous amount of maintenance, not to mention a stack of monthly paychecks for the small army of employees, is really just a satellite office. His primary studio, complete with another team of assistants, is in Paris, and unlike the Manhattan location, it doesn’t come for free. I ask JR how he manages to maintain his massive operation of overhead expenses, given that so much of his work is mounted on buildings he doesn’t own and is thus unsellable.

 

JR - Humanity
The Wrinkles of the City, Istanbul

 

“Ninety-nine percent of what most artists do is, you know, pieces that they sell,” JR explains. “Picasso was selling everything he would paint. Sometimes he would do a mural, but that maybe represented 1 percent of his work. In my case, 99 percent of what I do is not for sale. It’s just me going to places, putting up stuff in the street that doesn’t make any money. The 1 percent that I have, that’s what I spend on creating artworks. That comes from gallery shows and the lithographs we sell online. That finances the operation.” Given the breadth and ambition of JR’s upcoming projects, including a massive installation at the Louvre, in which the museum will give him free rein of the entire building for 24 hours, as well as a documentary he’s co-directed with French cinema legend Agnès Varda, the 1 percent/99 percent balance seems a precarious venture. JR agrees.

“I could be out of this place any day; I don’t own it,” he tells me. “Everything’s very fragile. We spend money this year, but we don’t know if we’ll have money next year. Everything’s like that. We go from project to project, one after the other, just by believing that it would happen, but there’s no safety net. We don’t run a company, even if it looks like we do.”

JR’s refusal to accept any brand sponsorship may have limited the financial upside to his projects, but it’s also given him a degree of street cred that’s allowed him to work in a number of pretty challenging environs and avoid the normally inevitable shakedowns. “When I was in the favela, the first thing the gangsters asked me was, ‘How are you financing it?’ And I said, ‘It’s just me. It’s financed by selling my artworks and reinvesting so I could come here. If you don’t want it, you can scratch it down. Nobody else is involved.’ If I had said, ‘Yes, Coca-Cola is paying for it—they’re actually letting me do this,’ the first thing they’d say: ‘Cool, you pay us, too.’ I’ve never had to get in those debates wherever I was in the world because people knew it was a completely free project.”

JR’s efforts to encourage citizen-generated art in conflict zones has not come without some skepticism, from both the art-world establishment and the impoverished populations that JR has encouraged to contribute to his various projects. In the 2013 HBO documentary Inside Out: The People’s Art Project, which includes footage of JR’s citizen-generated art being mounted in the ravaged neighborhoods of Haiti, Tunisia and the West Bank, a Haitian man observes that art will never fill his belly. It’s a fair and sobering statement about the stark limitations of art activism as humanitarian aid, but JR’s work has had an impact that has shown tangible results beyond simply empowering the disenfranchised to find value and dignity in making art. The series of images featuring rabbis and imams that he posted on the wall separating Israel from the West Bank settlements has been credited for opening the door to tourism between the two countries.

“After that project, thousands of people traveled to visit both places, where before there was no tourism traveling into Palestine,” says JR. “So when you see that real action can happen after simple photos, just paper and words, that people see these images and have access to it in Israeli and Palestinian houses, and you realize, OK, even if it’s a tiny contribution, it does have its own impact.”

 

The Wrinkles of the City, Istanbul

 

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CAM NEWTON

HUMANITY: I saw you posted on social media comments about Muhammad Ali. What is it specifically about him that you admire?

CAM NEWTON: I love everything that Muhammad Ali stood for, as well as the persona that he brought to the sport of boxing, the life he led in and out of the ring. There’s never going to be anyone like him. I’m just inspired by everything that he stood for and just his overall swagger.

HUMANITY: Do you try to bring any of that into your life?

CN: I hope so. He was just bigger than boxing. My father, coaches and mentors always say to use your influence in a positive way. He was just a kid from Kentucky who ended up impacting all our lives and humanity in general. He took his gift and empowered others; he’s very much a role model of mine.

HUMANITY: Speaking of personal heroes, who are some of yours and what is it about them that you admire?

CN: Obviously Muhammad Ali, Barack Obama, Steve Jobs—just people who have a strong sense of self and know who they are. It doesn’t matter if they’re an athlete or an engineer or the president of the United States. What I admire most is a person that stands by what they believe in and tries to impact others in a positive way.

HUMANITY: Do you think it’s important to have mentors?

CN: That’s what life is all about. It’s learning different things every single day from one another. You never know where the information is going to come from, so you need to stay open and open-minded.

HUMANITY: What have been some of the most difficult aspects of dealing with fame for you?

CN: I’m just so lucky to have a solid foundation of people around me—family, friends, loved ones that keep me grounded, whether I’m doing good things or doing the wrong thing, I have people who are able to tell me the difference between the two.

HUMANITY: What kind of effect has fame had on your public persona?

CN: I’ve learned that it’s something that I really have little to no control over, because at the end of the day the public makes up their own mind. But the media does a lot to create this facade for people. There’s numerous times where I’ve come in contact with people and they say, “I never thought you would have been this type of person.” I’m not the image that people see on TV. I love the game of football, I love being who I am, I love the people around me. I love people in general, and the fact that that’s not always portrayed, I can’t control that.

HUMANITY: It’s obvious that you take the idea of being a role model very seriously. What do you want for your young fans to take away from you on and off the field?

CN: I just want them to see the passion that I have, you know. That’s why I have my foundation—to always keep me in contact with giving back, because it’s important to me. Some people are looking up to me, some are just looking at me, but why not use the stage that God has given me for positivity?

People see things that I do, from the way I walk to the way I talk, the way I dress, the way I play and make conclusions—some people may like it, some may not, but everybody’s entitled to their own opinion. But for the people who I have the attention of, I try to make sure that they see a very passionate person that loves everything that he does in life.

HUMANITY: Let’s talk about the Cam Newton Foundation. Why was it important for you to create it?

CN: It’s extremely important for me to give back. It’s socioeconomic means that allow kids to live out their dreams. We create these different avenues to be outlets for children; we are mainly in Charlotte and Atlanta right now, but hopefully one day soon we can expand and make it nationwide.

 

Cam Newton - Humanity

 

HUMANITY: How did it come about and what’s the overall purpose?

CN: My father, he’s a preacher, and has always instilled a sense of knowing that it’s a priority to give back to my community. The goal is to just try and create opportunities for kids and encourage them to live out their dreams, to motivate them to get out and get active and just overall wellness—to motivate them in any way possible.

HUMANITY: What have been the foundation’s highlights so far?

CN: One major highlight is a year-end Thanksgiving event. We feed the entire community, as many people as possible. This past year we had 900 people show up. It’s just great to see. We’ve had Christmas with Cam, where we reach out to the local hospitals and we have a school-pride day for 25 to 35 schools around the Mecklenburg County School District in Charlotte. The kids have to keep a certain GPA as well as low absences and no behavioral issues. If they meet those requirements, they are welcome to join.

HUMANITY: What have been its greatest challenges so far?

CN: Well, there haven’t been many challenges yet, but this is something that’s pretty new for me. We just want to impact kids in any way possible, push kids to have goals and to dream big.

HUMANITY: When you excel at something, there’s always going to be those who have negative things to say. Does it bother you or is it just something that you’ve come to accept?

CAM NEWTON: That’s something that I just came to accept. I don’t live my life for other people’s judgments. I live my life for being at peace and at one with myself, knowing that every life lesson I will learn from. Whether it’s good, whether it’s bad, it hopefully makes me a better person.

HUMANITY: It seems that nowadays with social media, people want access to celebrities 24/7. How do you manage that?

CN: I don’t let social media use me; I use social media. I’m able to show who I really am outside of football and hopefully impact and empower others.

HUMANITY: Social media’s a platform that you control. What’s the message that you want to put out to the world?

CN: I want people to see more than a football player. I think I try to be a good person; I just happen to play football.

HUMANITY: Do you think it’s more difficult today for celebrities because of social media?

CN: Of course. It puts you in the line of fire, from what you say to who you hang out. You really need to keep a certain level of protection over your personal life in order for you to keep some level of privacy.

HUMANITY: From what I understand, you and your parents are very close. How did they prepare you for success in life, both on and off the field?

CN: I’m extremely blessed to have had two parents at home growing up, as well as having numerous people in my corner that knew right from wrong—people who are in their right mind who had my best interest at hand. But a lot of that comes from having a strong mother and father that always kept their eyes on me.

 

Cam Newton - Humanity

 

HUMANITY: What do you think the biggest misconception about you out there is?

CN: I could care less. Misconceptions happen every single day. Being misunderstood, that’s life. I don’t know—I guess it doesn’t bother me enough to care.

HUMANITY: What about your legacy in your community?

CN: I think it’s important for me to always have a voice in my community, to be a person that can be touched, and I say touched because oftentimes it’s easy to donate money, easy to support this or support that, but harder to actually donate time. I just always want to be present.

HUMANITY: And what about your legacy overall?

CN: I just want to be a catalyst that started something big. With me being a new father, I realize that it’s more important than I ever thought because it’s going to impact my son. I just want to be someone that, no matter what I go through, good or bad, I always learn from it and better myself.

HUMANITY: Has your perspective changed since you’ve had a son?

CN: Having a child, it changes your whole perspective on life. You thought you loved before, until you’re in the hospital room and you hear him crying for the first time. It makes you appreciate life even more.

HUMANITY: Has fatherhood made you want to do things differently in any way?

CN: I think it makes me focus on the things that I do now and have more purpose behind it. I know that for the rest of my life somebody’s going to be looking at me all the time, so something as simple as being very complete in everything that you do.

HUMANITY: Last question—do you have a mantra or any words that you try to live by?

CN: Yes, a simple one: Just do unto others as you want them to do unto you. I don’t necessarily believe in karma, but if you’re a good person good things will happen.

HUMANITY: Thank you, Cam.

CN: Thank you. I appreciate it.

 

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AI WEIWEI

I first saw Ai Weiwei’s work in 2003 in New York. I was drawn to his conceptual combinations and remixing of found objects on an aesthetic level. Through his use of materials, Ai Weiwei creates artworks that really define him. His work introduced a new kind of ethos in art to me—and to a lot of the world.

Ai Weiwei lived in New York from 1981 to 1993, so he speaks English well. But beyond that, he is different from other Chinese artists in the way that he takes on the world and in the way that he communicates with a globalized audience. When we first met, Ai Weiwei’s focus was mostly interpretations of Chinese history, and his message seemed more artistic than sociopolitical. Over the years, the meaning of his art has evolved considerably—the majority of his artwork now reflects his engagement with sociopolitical issues worldwide.

Ai Weiwei was an early adopter of the Internet. For him, the Internet is just another medium, like porcelain, wood, bronze or Lego plastic. It’s a virtual medium that he has adjusted and created into an art form. He started with his own blog (which was shut down after he used it to draw attention to the government’s concealment of the 2008 Sichuan earthquake death toll), and he eventually moved on to Twitter. In recent years, Ai Weiwei uses Twitter and Instagram around the clock. Social media provides him with a channel to engage with the world in a global way. He doesn’t use the Internet or social media to promote his own shows or his own films; he uses these online platforms to consistently promote human issues. Those issues change and evolve over time: where one stops, another continues. Now that Ai Weiwei is a European citizen living and working in Berlin versus a Chinese prisoner in Beijing, his messaging is still changing.

As someone who’s not afraid to speak his mind, there are few Chinese artists who come close to Ai Weiwei. Since his 81-day secret imprisonment by the Chinese government in 2011, followed by the confiscation of his passport (it was returned in 2015), both his voice and resolve have gotten stronger. In terms of his fellow Chinese artists, I think many of them would like to emulate Ai Wewei’s stance. He is a very hard act to follow, and it takes a combination of many personal traits to be this type of person—and within this person you find the artist.

 

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Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads: Gold, 2010 Bronze with a gold patina Dimensions variable

 

Actually, I consider Ai Weiwei to be a bigger person than artist. Through the consciousness of his art he is able to make people feel uncomfortable and uneasy, and I think that’s important, because life is not easy. It’s good to be reminded of the reality of things, and his art does that.

These days, for example, if you look at his Instagram feed, you can see how he’s speaking out by documenting the refugee situation in Europe. He’s currently working on a new film about refugees; he has taken on a global issue and he is drawing attention to it—that’s different than most artists. The majority of his peers are not doing this type of thing.

Now, by way of my association with Ai Weiwei, I feel like I’ve turned into an activist of some sort. For me, the political connectivity in his work is really important. It stands out as a requisite, even though he still creates beautiful objects. Using art as a voice to tell stories and to connect with people is central to his art and has become a truly integral part of his work.

You don’t have to agree with the message, but I believe art should communicate something. Ai Weiwei has really made me more aware of what I like. Art without significant meaning and reason—what’s the point? Beauty needs a body; it needs substance. There has to be something going on there. That’s why so many people understand Ai Weiwei.

Considering the various projects we’ve worked on together, the one that I feel is the most important is Ai Weiwei’s Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads. This monumental, historical sculpture project is his take on the 12 animal heads of the traditional Chinese zodiac that once adorned the fountain clock of the Yuanming Yuan imperial retreat in Beijing. The originals were looted by the French and the English in 1860. Ai Weiwei’s interpretation of the Zodiac Heads, which focuses on the themes of repatriation and fakes, made its debut in New York in May 2011, and this series (both Bronze and Gold) has since been exhibited at 35 international venues and counting. At the time of the launch of this work in 2011, Ai Weiwei was still imprisoned, and he had no idea what was going on. Mayor Michael Bloomberg gave a significant speech that drew attention to his situation, and he spoke sincerely about what Ai Weiwei really stands for. The pieces continued to travel around the world during his detention. I think the Zodiac Heads have become his most popular work because they have truly been exhibited around the globe now. Millions of art lovers worldwide continue to see them. The project has gone well beyond my expectations.

 

S.A.C.R.E.D. (detail from Ritual), 2011-2013 Mixed media, iron, fiberglass, paint, plastic 377x198x153 Interior view

 

Ai Weiwei operates with a certain resolve and a strong direction of what’s right; he is a “no bullshit” artist. He’s a collector too, but he is not concerned about money; his focus is family and work. And he works all the time. Family. Work. Family. Work. And art, of course!

When Ai Weiwei was detained at his home in Beijing (2011-2015), his international profile was definitely raised up a notch. Every couple of months during that time I would fly over to Beijing for the weekend and spend time with him. I’d leave New York on a Wednesday night and get there Thursday and spend four full days with him, doing antique shopping or running around, going to the beach, swimming with the family, all kinds of stuff. We would spend time talking and considering our projects. I was with him on the historic day when he got his passport back from the Chinese authorities.

Ai Weiwei is a very loyal person. He’s the type of guy someone can call at 4 in the morning if they have a problem. He’s that guy who would drop what he’s doing and deal with it and help. He’s charitable and generous. We were in Australia a couple of months ago, and 10 or 12 people within one block of walking stopped him for a photo, and he posed with every one of them. He’s very compassionate, he’s tough, he’s demanding and he’s artistically precise. In his work you can see he’s a special person, and for me to be able to hang out with him and to work with him is very special, because I’m just a regular guy. It’s really inspiring for me, and Ai Weiwei has changed the trajectory and meaning of my own life.

Larry Warsh has been active in the art world for more than thirty years. An early collector of Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring,  Warsh has collaborated with internationally recognized contemporary Chinese artist Ai Weiwei on several notable projects, including the acclaimed sculptural installation Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads (2010), which has been exhibited in more than 36 venues worldwide and continues to tour the globe. Warsh was the catalyst and executive producer of the award-winning documentary Ai Weiwei: Never Sorry (2012).

Text written with Lesley Mckenzie.

 

Installation view of the Ai Weiwei: According to What? exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum, NY (April 18 – August 10, 2014)

 

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MADE IN LA

Where is Citizens of Humanity produced?

We are one of the very few vertically integrated denim production facilities in the United States. That means that every pair of jeans is made in Los Angeles. We personally manufacture everything ourselves in L.A. in our own sewing and laundry [washing] facilities. This is all within a 10-minute radius of our design studio. This is crucial to us, as it allows us to have complete control over the quality of our product.

How long does it take to make a pair of jeans?

The sewing alone can take between three and four hours. Then the laundry can be as long as five hours; it really just depends on that specific wash. It’s a handmade product, so it’s so much at the pace of the hands working on it. It’s even possible that some can take as long as two to three days before it’s totally complete.

So much emphasis is placed on fabric quality—what’s the difference between a great fabric versus a less expensive fabric?

One of the key aspects of premium denim is pursuing the beauty of the antique or authenticity of old indigo clothing. The quality and performance of the fabric are determined by three elements:
Yarn: The selection of different-quality cottons, how those cottons are blended together and how they are spun affect the quality of the yarn. To ensure the performance of indigo dying for premium denim, which is critical to achieving a deep, beautiful blue color and at the same time to getting a great abrasion, the selection of cottons, the blend and the spin should be designed in a very sensitive balance. It’s not just about a dyeing method or how many dips in dye it takes to give a beauty of indigo color and great fading after wearing or washing a pair of jeans.

Dyeing: Dyeing the yarn with the indigo [a living bacteria] and maximizing its performance requires a long-term know-how to master the chemicals, dyestuff and equipment used in the process.

Weaving: Why does selvage denim have such authentic features? It is also because of weaving. Old shuttle looms weave fabric very slowly, with much lower tension/stress than the latest super-high-speed weaving machines. But some mills in this world try to mimic this feature by using modern techniques developed in their R&D departments.

When people say “Japanese fabrics,” what does that mean, and why is Japan a great place for fabric?

First of all, Japan has been dealing with indigo for generations now. Indigo-dyed cloth-like kimonos already existed in 15th century. But more recently I’d have to say, for the last 25 years or so, the Japanese have actually bought a lot of the original machines that were used to produce denim. They have the know-how and technically they are very strong. They’ve studied and understand denim intimately. They’ve study the selvage, they’ve study all the fabrics from the heydays of denim—the ’40s, ’50s and ’60s—and they’ve started producing those fabrics as they were made in those years.

 

 

 

 

 

Explain selvage denim and what’s special about it.

During the Second World War the U.S. stopped producing on the selvage machines, because we needed machines to quickly produce fabrics for the Army. So we stopped running the selvage because they have very short looms. And we needed to produce fabrics at a much quicker pace. Selvage machines are basically machines that weave only 30 to 32 inches wide; modern machines can be more than double that, and selvage is also much slower, because it weaves the yarn much tighter. If you make a yarn tighter and you go fast, it’s going to break. So you go slower into weaving the yarn. So not only does selvage have a shorter loom, but it’s giving you half of what any loom could give you fabric-wise today, and on top of that, it’s like 75 percent slower than modern machines. It ends up being a huge difference. But you see the difference, especially when you wash the fabric, the way it breaks down and wears in.

How many people are needed to produce a pair of jeans?

It can take as many as 30 to 40 people, 40 sets of hands if you include the design team and pattern makers, obviously based on the details of a given pant or jacket. The sewing factory alone can be as many as 15 to 20 different operations including the cutters, then it goes to the laundry, then to finishing, where it’s prepared to be sent out to stores.

What is the difference in producing a regular C-of-H MAN jean and a Premium Vintage one?

For our Premium Vintage range, there are a few things that make the product different. We typically use either selvage denim OR the same construction done on a wider loom—these are fabrics that we source from Japan or Cone Mills in the U.S., as they were one of the first to produce selvage in their White Oak facility. Our Premium Vintage range is about offering the denim aficionado who loves and appreciates vintage and authentic washes a modern interpretation of this look—slimmer fits, reimagined vintage jackets, with attention to intense and special washes that replicate the look of the past.

Can you explain the kind of stretch or spandex that gets used in the jeans?

So we use Lycra. The Lycra is weaved into the yarn of the cotton. It’s mixed with the cotton, so ultimately it gives the denim a good amount of recovery. Now there are different kinds of Lycra, but most often we use about 2 percent. So it ends up being 98 percent cotton and 2 percent Lycra. That’s why it ends up feeling good but not losing the look we are trying to achieve.
COH: Do you use a lot of chemicals and water for production of the denim? And how are you making strides to reduce that footprint?
JD: We’ve been looking for ways to reduce the huge amounts of water traditionally used in denim production. We, as a brand, are trying to transform every aspect of the production process to create environmentally friendly and socially conscious methods. We have invested a lot of time and thinking to come up with solutions.

We have invested in new machinery/technology that actually uses air to reproduce ozone gas conditions and give garments the look of vintage—using less water and energy in the process, and eliminating the need for processes such as bleaching. This lets us create a product that uses less time, less energy, less chemicals, less water and creates less pollution.

We are also saving water with our new laundry/dye machine system. This provides 50 percent more loading allowance along with 70 percent savings from water, chemicals and heating energy.

And more eco-friendly processes are being enabled by our laser technology. The laser is capable of creating abrasions, marking the denim when it is rigid and burning the fabric to achieve different destroyed or worn-in looks, allowing for fewer washing cycles. It’s not perfect but technology is providing a solution to reduce our global footprint and at the same time not lose any of the quality and aesthetics in our denim.

 

 

 

 

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A Special Recipe by Travis Lett

PIZZA WITH GUANCIALE, CASTELVETRANO OLIVES & FRESNO CHILI – A RECIPE BY TRAVIS LETT

MAKES ONE 10- TO 12-IN [25- TO 30.5-CM] PIZZA / For anyone not yet acquainted with guanciale, it is the delicately spiced, unsmoked cousin to bacon. It has much more fat than bacon, and a sweet, subtle flavor. And it crisps perfectly when it cooks. Here, we pair it with buttery green Castelvetrano olives, the mild heat of Fresno chili, and a scattering of roughly chopped rosemary.

Semolina flour for dusting

One 6 1⁄2 oz. [185 g] ball (Gjelina) pizza dough proofed and stretched until 10 – 12 in [25 to 30.5 cm] in diameter

1/3 cup [75 ml] pomodoro sauce

4 Castelvetrano olives, pitted and broken into quarters

1 Fresno chili, or another medium-hot green or red chili, sliced and seeds removed

1 1⁄2 oz. [40 g] mozzarella cheese, torn into small pieces

1 1⁄2 oz. [40 g] asiago cheese

1 1⁄2 oz. [40 g] thinly sliced guanciale

2 pinches of roughly chopped fresh rosemary

Place a pizza stone on the middle rack of your oven and preheat the oven to the highest possible setting, at least 500F [260C], for 1 hour. Lightly dust a pizza peel or a rimless baking sheet with semolina flour.

Using your forearms or the backs of your hands, transfer the stretched round of dough to the prepared peel.

With a large spoon, gently spread the pomodoro sauce evenly across the dough, leaving a 1-in [2.5-cm] border without any sauce. Scatter the olives, chili, and mozzarella on top. With a vegetable peeler, shave the asiago over the top. Add the guanciale last so that it will get crisp as it cooks.

Slide the dough onto the pizza stone in the oven and bake, allowing it to bubble up and rise, 4 to 5 minutes. Once the rim starts to look pillowy and airy, using the pizza peel, turn the pizza 180 degrees to ensure that it browns evenly all over. It’s ready when the rim is a deep golden brown and beginning to char, and the bottom of the pizza is crisp, 6 to 8 minutes total.

Using the peel or rimless baking sheet, transfer the pizza to a cutting board or baking sheet with a rim. Sprinkle the rosemary on top. Slice and serve hot.

 

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ALLAN KENNEDY

Where are you from originally?

I am originally from a small village in Scotland called Alyth. It’s about an hour north of Edinburgh.

How did you decide to make New York your home?

I came to NYC in 2004 as I was working a lot with Details magazine and Vanity Fair. I had just recently got divorced so fancied a change of scenery.

What are your favorite places to eat / hang in NYC?

I mostly hang out on Division Street on the LES. My friend has a couple of restaurants down there and there is a real community vibe down there. I know everybody who owns the coffee shops, the restaurants and stores. It feels like home. If you ever need to track me down you’ll most likely find me at Forgetmenot on Division Street watching soccer.

What do you miss most about home?

I obviously miss my family and friends that I grew up with but I really do miss the Scottish environment and the nature. I really feel that the wind, the rain, the soil and the smells of the land are an integral part of who I am and when I am back there, I truly feel at home.

Who’s your ultimate style icon(s)? Past and/or present — and why?

I couldn’t say that I have any particular style icons but as a kid I was heavily influenced by music —The Clash, The Jam and the Stone Roses really had an effect on what I wore and movies too. I loved Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and I guess Paul Newman is the nearest I get to style icon. He was the coolest guy ever, him and Steve McQueen. They were obviously handsome guys but they had a quiet masculinity about them that I think every man would love to have a bit of.

In a career that demands so much of you creatively, how do you stay inspired?

I think you have to be curious in order to be creative and I am curious about people, their motivations and their stories. I like to project some of that into my shoots. My fashion stories are vignettes of imaginary lives. I’d love to have had the ability to write great stories but instead I make little picture ones instead.

You served 6 years in the military — can’t imagine many stylists have that as a background.

I haven’t come across any other stylists that have served. It felt pretty natural to me as I had cousins and uncles in the military and I was always obsessed with war movies as a kid. Obviously when you get in there and the full brutality of it hits you it’s not so nice but I was a kid when I joined so much more able to deal with it. I am truly glad I did it though, because it taught me a lot.

What did you learn that you’ve applied to your career?

I learnt to be organized and punctual. I am way too punctual for the fashion business, which is always running at least 15 minutes behind.

What pushed you to pursue styling?

I’d always loved imagery, even though I wasn’t fully aware of it when I was young. I had to kind of grow into it. I sometimes think I should have been a photographer but I really like how clothing can change the nature of an image. I like to make a fashion photograph authentic so the challenge for me is always to make the model, the clothes and the environment one.

You shoot around the world —what are some of your favorite locations? Why?

I love Lisbon in Portugal, it’s an amazing place, very old Europe. I always love visiting Italy —I love how the Italians approach life. It’s a wonderful lifestyle there. Paris is probably my favorite city in the world because of the history and the grandeur. Hawaii is also a pretty amazing place.

You produce a biannual magazine called ASSOCIATED —what’s the direction of it? How did you decide to start it?

Associated is a magazine that was born out of my love for football (soccer) and street style. I wanted to do a soccer magazine that had a real fashion element to it and I wanted to see if I could apply the same approach to it as I did my fashion shoots and it worked out much better than I thought to be honest. I saw the passion for soccer here in the US while watching the World Cup in New York. I was struck by the different types of people who were into it and thought maybe we could tap into that community.

Where do you go to watch futbol in the city?

I watch the games at my friend’s spot Forgetmenot. It’s a great place to watch the games as it has a real mix of people, it’s not just a football style crowd.

Who’s your team?

My team are from Scotland and they are called Glasgow Celtic. I have followed them since I was a kid and would go to the games a lot growing up. I still go to games now when I am home. I still love being part of the crowd.

What does every man need in his wardrobe?

I think for any man, if he has a worn-in pair of jeans, some solid boots, a nice tee and a workwear style jacket, he is good to go. Men’s wardrobes don’t require much more than the basics. It’s how you wear it that matters.

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