LEE PERRY

WHAT DO BOB MARLEY, PAUL MCCARTNEY AND THE CLASH HAVE IN COMMON? THE ANSWER IS LEE “SCRATCH” PERRY.

I first unknowingly encountered the musical genius of Lee Perry on my first trip to Kingston early in 1973. In Jamaica music was everywhere—blaring from innumerable tiny record shops out into the streets, from car radios stopped at red lights, from small transistors of commuters waiting at bus stops or people just randomly singing a cappella as they walked through the city’s hot bustle. At night there were sound systems anchoring giant outdoor mobile dances going into the wee hours—celebrations resounding without borders. Bob [Marley] was my guide through this mystical musical universe so intrinsically bound to a struggle for freedom—political, economic and spiritual.

In Jamaica more records were being released per capita than in any place in the world, and “dub” music was dominating. I was amazed that radio play and the dance halls—pushed by popular demand—had made stars of people who simply talked over rhythm tracks. They were liberating poetry from the printed page and simultaneously chatting over music that was as sophisticated and innovative in its use of electronic effects as any being produced by European or North American composers, such as Karlheinz Stockhausen or Terry Riley—but with the distinction that this music was penetrating the popular consciousness.

My first weeks in Jamaica I was trying to absorb as much as I could. Bob and his partners in the Wailers—Peter Tosh and Bunny Livingston—were introducing me to the ways of Rasta culture, and I was becoming aware of the names of some of the artists dominating the airwaves: Big Youth, U-Roy, Dennis Alcapone, Alton Ellis, Prince Jazzbo.

I would ride with Bob every sunrise in his bronze Mercury Capri to run on the beach at Bull Bay, 20 minutes from Kingston, where Bunny lived among a small Rasta community. Then we would run up a nearby mountain to a canyon holding a 50-foot waterfall at Cane River. In the afternoon nearly every day I would go with Bob to West Kingston, where poor people—the “suffaras”—lived and where Bob grew up, and to Trenchtown, where the Wailers were formed.

I would goad Bob into taking me on trips to the interior of the island, its mountainous beauty a striking dichotomy with the slums of Trenchtown, Back-o-Wall, Firehouse and Concrete Jungle. It seemed incredible to me how all the country people knew him like a son or brother or nephew, and I could never tell for Bob’s actions if they really knew him or were related or just loved him for the joy and hope his music would always bring. We stopped on these small winding country roads in the mountains of St. Ann’s Parish on my first trips to Nine Mile, the tiny village where Bob was born. And I loved to stop at the little roadside shops of zinc and wood, because there would often be an ancient jukebox where I’d look for Wailers music and so began discovering their early ska songs like “Simmer Down,” “Caution” and “Let Him Go.”

I can remember so distinctly hearing the quite different sound of Lee “Scratch” Perry’s Wailers productions for the first time at one of those tiny shacks. It was a lazy golden afternoon; we had stopped to drink a jelly coconut and Bob went around back to check if there was a good draw of herb. Handwritten on one of the jukebox selections in fading ink was the title of one of their collaborations, “Duppy Conqueror.” What a wild name for a tune! It’s Jamaican patois for “ghostbuster.” I loved the way Bob’s voice was recorded as he sang:

Yes, me friend, me friend / Dem set me free again / Yes, me friend, me good friend / We dehpon street again / The bars could not hold me / Force could not control me …

It sounded so solitary—desperate and piercing yet smooth raw honey all at once, with pristine background vocals, original harmonies and a rhythm section that locked the spaces between the bass notes sweet as a ripe mango. The flip sides of the 7” vinyl were vocal-stripped rhythm tracks brilliantly reconstructed, the various overlapping echoes reverberating again through the lush green otherworldly Jamaican mountains.

Our leisurely drive to Bob’s village became a journey into the man’s artistry for me. The afternoon was wearing down to a soft dusk as Bob and I made our last stop before reaching his childhood home. I walked into the shady bar and found myself at the jukebox, pressing the fat square button to hear “Trenchtown Rock.” Losing myself in the song, I understood Bob’s radical affirmation of his impoverished Kingston area as a place of resilient citizens always ready to dance in the face of pain. Its opening line is etched permanently in my being:

One good thing about music, when it hits you fell no pain / So hit me with music, hit me with music now … / Trench town rock, big fish or sprat / Trench town rock, you reap what you sow / Trench town rock, and everyone know now / Trench town rock, give the slum a try … / You’re groovin’, in Kingston 12 …

No recording had ever awakened me quite like that. I was so blown away, and I needed to hear the scratchy vinyl through the ancient machine again and again. It was one of their first discs after leaving Scratch’s stewardship, and they had learned his lessons well.

To say that Lee Perry is a living legend is surely out of the realm of hyperbole. As one of the most influential producers in the history of recorded music his importance is reflected not only in the hundreds of millions that have been touched by the music he has created—as a producer, writer, vocalist and live performer—but also by the incredible range of artists who have been profoundly inspired by his body of work extending through five decades. Beginning in the early ’60s he collaborated with legendary Jamaican artists of the ska and rocksteady era, including the Skatalites, Alton Ellis, Tommy McCook and Prince Buster. In the late ’60s and early ’70s he was a foundational creator of reggae and was a profound influence on the careers of the Wailers. He took what was then a vocal trio (Marley, Tosh and Livingston) and brought them together with his studio rhythm section, known as the Upsetters, and in so doing lifted them out of the age of ska and rocksteady and into the realm of a new music whose profound global impact continues to this day. He produced hits with dozens of singers, including seminal tracks like “One Step Forward” with Max Romeo, “Cherry Oh Baby” with Eric Donaldson (later covered by UB40) and “Police and Thieves” with Junior Murvin. He is one of the inventors of dub, which combined radical experiments in electronic music (panoramic delay, extensive use of echo and inventive collaging techniques), deconstructing and reconstructing current popular recordings, and produced in 1973 Blackboard Jungle Dub, the first purely dub album. His dub experiments coincided with his work with toasters U-Roy, Prince Jazzbo, Big Youth and others, creating some of the first recordings of people talking on top of music and foreshadowing the birth of rap and hip-hop in New York nearly a decade later.

As his legend grew, artists outside of Jamaica gravitated to him, looking to share in his magical gifts. The list of artists who have worked with him crosses genres and geographical boundaries, everyone from George Clinton and Keith Richards to the Slits, the Orb, Dub Syndicate, Bill Laswell and more recently Dubblestandart and Subatomic Sound System. Scratch produced the Clash’s “Complete Control,” widely acknowledged as one of punk rock’s greatest singles, a fiery diatribe against corporate control of the music business. As an artist, Rolling Stone has rated him  among one of the 100 Greatest Artists of All Time.

Scratch’s bold personality and talent is well documented. The genre he helped to invent, dub, has gone on to rule dance floors everywhere, filtered through sounds like grime and EDM. But for me, his greatest triumph will always be the sonic kick of hearing Bob Marley’s voice of liberation on “Duppy Conqueror,” proudly riding a radical rhythm that could only have been made by “the Upsetter,” Lee “Scratch” Perry.

 

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ELIZABETH LEVENTHAL

Elizabeth Leventhal’s fashion instinct kicked in at an early age. “When I was starting in kindergarten, my mom would make me pick out my clothes the night before and wouldn’t let me switch for the next morning,” says the Southern-born-and-bred brunette. Fast-forward to present day, where Leventhal’s sartorial sensibilities are continuing to come into play, as the general merchandising manager of ready-to-wear at online luxury retail game-changer Moda Operandi.

It’s a natural fit for Leventhal, who has spent her career in the online sphere. Originally an education major at the University of Georgia, Leventhal couldn’t resist her innate love of style and switched to a degree in fashion merchandising. “I’ve always been really interested in vintage clothing and finding unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. In college is really where I realized it’s something that I’m much more passionate about, and it’s just more of a creative outlet,” says Leventhal.

The next obvious step was to take the leap and move to New York City post-graduation, where she scored a position at Saks Fifth Avenue as an assistant buyer—first in designer shoes and handbags and then beauty before transitioning to e-commerce for designer ready-to-wear and evening. “I love the dot-com world, because you can change things instantly. You are developing more content and more storytelling than what you can do in a store format,” says Leventhal, who eventually landed at Gucci as the brand’s e-commerce buying manager for North America and Canada for a two-year stint before making the move to Moda.

Launched in 2011 by Gilt Groupe alum Áslaug Magnúsdóttir and Vogue contributing editor Lauren Santo Domingo, Moda Operandi began as a spin on the traditional trunk-show business model, offering members the ability to preorder pieces straight off the runway from a handpicked lineup of designers, from heavyweights like Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta and Giambattista Valli to up-and-comers such as Brandon Maxwell and Rosetta Getty. Since then, the site has expanded to include an equally editorialized selection of in-season offerings.

“I think it’s a leader in the fashion industry. [Moda] is changing the way the consumer behaves,” says Leventhal, speaking on the phone from the brand’s Daniel Romualdez–designed headquarters on Hudson and Spring in New York (conveniently a two-minute walk from her home, which she shares with her husband, eater.com co-founder Ben Leventhal). “They’re very innovative here. You have an idea and the company lets you run with it,” she says. “We’re integrated in every season and always thinking about the season ahead.”

Overseeing a 12-person team, Leventhal handles the ready-to-wear buys for the site’s trunk shows and in-season boutiques, hunting down the most covetable designers and pieces for this season and next. (If names like Baja East and Gabriela Hearst ring a bell, that’s partly because Leventhal and the Moda team helped land them on the fashion map.) “We’re telling [our consumer] exactly what she needs this season,” says Leventhal. From bridal and gala attire to travel essentials and workwear, Moda takes into consideration every fashionable facet of a woman’s life.

To understand those needs, Leventhal often puts herself in the client’s shoes: “We’re really trying to stay ahead of what she wants and reading magazines, going to art galleries, being integrated in the lifestyle and understanding where fashion is going.” To that end, the brands that Leventhal and the buying team bring to the table must meet a certain set of criteria: “We’re very careful at making sure that every brand is pretty unique,” she says. Moda not only looks for brands with a story behind them but also ones that stand out as the best in their respective categories, from evening dresses to sandals.

For Leventhal, the advantages of shopping e-commerce versus a traditional brick-and-mortar boutique are abundant. “The presentation of what happens online is such a different experience,” she says. Moda’s approach is to present its clients with compelling, styled, head-to-toe looks. A piece that might not have hanger appeal in a department store suddenly comes to life as part of an editorialized shoot that shows the buyer how to wear it five different ways and transition between seasons. “The customer can visually understand what she is buying,” Leventhal says. What’s more, a virtual team of on-call stylists, ready to answer any questions or help create a look, can customize the experience even further. “They’re sourcing one-of-a-kind products all the way to packing for [a client’s] travel destination and sending off the product to their hotel in advance. It really depends on who the customer is and making sure [the experience] is personalized for her.”

But not all aspects of Moda’s business are relegated to online. In 2014, it opened its second by-appointment-only shop in London’s tony Belgravia neighborhood, catering to a select group of globetrotting clientele. In the future, the brand will replicate the concept in the Middle East and New York (for now, VIP clients are catered to at a private salon in the Manhattan office and in their homes). And that’s not the only way Moda is expanding its international presence: Expect to find the buying team at more fashion weeks around the world in the coming year, expanding upon its current roster of New York, London, Milan and Paris. “We’ve already tapped into a lot of the brands that show at those fashion weeks,” explains Leventhal, who’s bound for Kiev, Copenhagen, Rio, Stockholm, Tbilisi and Australia. “It’s a way for us to expand globally and capture a new customer.”

If there’s anyone whose wardrobe has been impacted by Moda Operandi, it’s Leventhal herself. “My lifestyle obviously has changed. I’m traveling a lot, meeting with designers constantly. Building your wardrobe six months in advance of a trunk show is something that’s absolutely incredible, because I rarely have time to shop,” she says. “I’ve already thought about the season ahead, so it delivers right before the season starts. It’s a really cool experience.”
 

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FAB 5 FREDDY

Afrika Bambaataa may not be a household name, but he’s the fellow who etched in stone the nine elements of the global language known as hip-hop: graffiti art, breaking, MC rhyming, DJing, beatboxing and all other things “street”—its wisdom, fashion, language and even its own unique articulation of entrepreneurialism. During the late 1970s, the real hip-hop formed as a consciousness, and if Afrika Bambaataa is responsible for bringing the culture to hip-hop, it could be said that the sagacious Fab 5 Freddy is responsible for bringing hip-hop, the most significant cultural movement in modern times, to the mainstream.

Born Fred Brathwaite to politically aware parents in Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn, the pioneering Freddy has always been down to recognize the profusion of communal cues around him. A fan of music early on and a self-proclaimed young collector of jazz-lore photographs by his father’s close friend, musician Jimmy Morton, Freddy became energized by an expanded notion of “conversation” and the types of creative discourse born from talented minds coming together. This respect for artistic exchange would quickly position the eloquent and culturally resourceful Freddy as a major player in hip-hop’s history, given his acuity to connect the late ’70s and early ’80s uptown graffiti and early rap scenes with the downtown art and punk music scenes.

Freddy found himself at the center of it all. He first made his mark as a graffiti writer (earning his name for consistently “bombing” the number 5 train on the IRT as a member of the Brooklyn-based graffiti group the Fabulous 5), until he gave it up in 1980 to pursue a gallery-art career alongside his cosmopolitan cronies who’d come to the same decision, namely Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring and Kenny Scharf.

He went on to experiment with music and language, leading to his 1982 single “Change the Beat,” the B-side of which, according to the BBC, is the world’s most sampled song to date. Then another link in the F5F chain: the making of the film Wild Style alongside director Charlie Ahearn (also in 1982), born out of Freddy’s desire to educate the naysayers who saw this emergent culture as destructive and irrelevant. The film was and still is regarded as a poignant document of the time and has influenced countless worldwide. All this momentum led to another epic boom when Freddy became the host of a new cable show called Yo! MTV Raps. Between 1988 and 1995, his camera time brought massive recognition to the hip-hop conversation and to a plethora of multi-ethnic artists with dominant voices for social change.

With the scene flourishing in every imaginable direction, Freddy and his contemporaries found themselves live, loud and clear on the cognoscenti’s radar. Freddy’s impact on our contemporary culture is solid gold, solidified in essay after essay. Through Freddy, we’ve witnessed street energies translate into art. He’s an “all city” vehicle who has successfully crossed over all sorts of territories with unrestrained spirit. Nothing’s been off-limits or impossible.

Freddy currently lives in Harlem and is the creative consultant to Manhattan’s new Africa Center, a space that will focus on arts from the continent and diaspora. His dedication to the cultural vanguard has benefited us all, regardless if we’re even aware. He’s spearheaded new genres in music, broadcast, film and art. He’s brilliant, remarkably thoughtful, downright engaging and, as far as people go whose relevance remains completely legit, t-a-g, the man is still it.

Freddy is actively creating and exhibiting art, and you can find news about his work on his website, www.fab5freddy.com.

 

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DESMOND TUTU

HUMANITY: Where do you think you learned to be who you are? Your compassion, your empathy—how did you learn to be who you’ve become?

DESMOND TUTU: It’s a very good thing to be aware that you owe so much to other people. What you become is the influence of so many. I say the major influence of my life as I look back was my mother, who was not terribly educated; she finished elementary school and then went to a trade school to get a diploma in domestic science. I say to people that I resemble her physically. She had a large nose like mine and was thumpy, but I say I hope I resemble her in who she was. She was a very compassionate and caring person and couldn’t stand someone having an injustice done to them. She would very gently try to be on the side of the one who was having the rough time. You don’t consciously say you are emulating somebody, but in fact it is someone that has left a stamp of their personality on you. There was a very famous English priest; I had TB and I was in the hospital for 20 months, and amazingly, this man, who used to be very busy in Sophiatown, just outside Johannesburg, would visit me every week when he was available. When he was not available he would send another of his brethren. And so I am clear that so many people have touched my life and helped me to become a slightly better person than I’d otherwise have been, and to have had the wonderful support of my wife, Leah, in the days that we were struggling during apartheid. It was rough for her and for the children. Sometimes the apartheid government would target my wife. I have to take my hat off to Leah and to the children in the way that they were there with and for me in a very difficult time in my career. And so I hope that I’ve been able to contribute in helping us all to become slightly better people. Our country, which was being crushed under the burden of the vicious policy, the racist policy—I was part of a huge movement in the country and internationally, the anti-apartheid movement, hoping that it would be part of a process of helping all of us become slightly more human. We become better people by being caring people. You discover that as you give, in fact, you receive much more than you put out. And it’s been wonderful to be there when the struggle against injustice was won in our country, and all of us, black and white in South Africa, tasted what it meant to be truly free in a democratic dispensation where you didn’t have silly rules that depended on the color of a person’s skin. You learned that our value doesn’t depend on biological irrelevancies, really. We are born really to be compassionate people, to be caring people. You have a billion people living in absolute poverty, having so many people go to bed hungry; you have children dying of preventable diseases just because their families can’t afford fairly inexpensive inoculations against measles, against smallpox; and then to be appalled by how we spend so much of our money on arms! I mean, it’s obscene to know the billions and billions that we invest in these ghastly instruments of killing when we know that a small fraction of that would ensure that no child would die because they didn’t have clean water to drink, no child would die because they didn’t have affordable health care, no child would languish because they didn’t manage to go to school.

HUMANITY: You’ve accomplished so much in your life—what continues to motivate you?

DT: Well, in terms of accomplishment, it’s a wonderful thing to be part of a coalition, being part of a movement, and I had the privilege of being regarded as one of the leaders in the movement for justice, but we haven’t reached nirvana yet. There are so many parts of the world where you hope you can make a contribution. You get shocked when you see people scavenging in dustbins, and that should not be happening in our world. We have the capacity of ensuring that no one would have a rough time, that everyone would have a decent standard of living. There are many people in the world who are seeking to work for that, and I hope I can continue to be part of that kind of movement. People who say “Let us make poverty history.” People who say “Let us end war.” People who say “Let us stop producing nuclear weapons. Let us stop war. Stop war, make love,” you know? That’s God’s dream for all of us. In my own country, South Africa, we have got something that we didn’t enjoy for a long time—I mean freedom—but look around and you see many of our people languishing in poverty, especially young people who are unemployed, and we are sitting on a powder keg with so many people poor, and they see others who are not poor, and it’s not sustainable. The inequities are not sustainable. I mean, we don’t need to be a world that feels so vulnerable, so insecure, worrying about terrorists and that kind of thing. You don’t need an agitator to tell you that it is not right, and we have the solution in our hands, which is to want for the other what you desire for yourself.

HUMANITY: How would you hope to be remembered by the world, and then how would you like to be remembered by your family and those close to you?

DT: I’ve thought about this. Sometimes they ask you what you would want for your epitaph and I would say I would hope everyone would remember me as someone who loved. Loved … I love you. As someone who laughed and someone who cried, because I do all three, yeah. I would hope that is what they would remember.

HUMANITY: What is your idea of true happiness?

DT: I hope that all of us can get persuaded that, actually, my humanity is bound up with your humanity. The more foolish human you are, the more likely that I will be too, because we will be living in this wonderful delicate network of interdependence. I hope that many of us will come around to realizing that we can’t be fully human when there are so many who are being dehumanized, made less than who they really are. Whether we like it or not, in that particular process, we do become less than what we could really be. When you see someone picking at a rubbish bin or a rubbish dump you ask yourself a very deep question—if that thing doesn’t somehow, apart from appalling you, somehow diminish you. There may be a lot of us who say “Oh no, it’s got nothing to do with me.” But that is not true. Something of my humanity is lost as that person is dehumanized by conditions that you and I know can be eradicated. I just hope that we will come to realize just how precious each one of us is.

 

Archbishop Desmond Tutu introduces Nelson Mandela to the crowd at the City Hall, Cape Town, after he was elected State President, May 11, 1994. Oryx Media Archive/Gallo Images

 

HUMANITY: What do you think most of the world’s leaders are lacking right now?

DT: Most are wonderful people. They get to be constrained by all kinds of considerations. If all of them said: “I know I’m no longer up for re-election, so I’m going to do the things that I know ought to be done. I’m going to do the things that are going to contribute to peace efforts in the world. I’m not going to invest any more in arms. I’m going to invest more in people, in homes, the humanity of people. I’m going to invest in schooling. I’m going to invest in things that help neighborhoods to flourish. I’m going to invest.” I mean, it seems so obvious, but I would say to all the leaders, “How about trying to help fulfill the idea that we are all members of one family?”

HUMANITY: Can perfection be achieved?

DT: Not this side of death, I don’t think. I mean, very, very, very few, but it is not so much the goal that matters, it is the going, the getting there. Being involved and saying, “I want to be a more compassionate person, I want to be a more caring person,” and striving after that. No one is such a pain in the neck as someone who is on a crusade. Good people that we know are almost always people who attract, like Mother Teresa, Mahatma Gandhi, you name it. People who would bring a smile to your face as you think of them and who make you want to be a better person. They might be on a crusade, but they are not crusaders. They are beautiful people. Archbishop Hélder Câmara is famously quoted as saying: “When I feed the hungry, they say I’m a saint. When I ask why are they hungry, then they say I’m a communist.” He was a fantastic Roman Catholic archbishop. Archbishops always wear splendid robes; he wore khakis. Archbishops usually live in residences called palaces because they are very sumptuous places; he refused to live in one of those and chose to live in a favela. I visited him and you could see that he had stolen the hearts of all the people. But the story I want to tell you is that we were in a meeting once—Mother Teresa was present, he was present. I also was privileged to be present in Paris and I went up to him and said, “Please, can you bless me?” and I knelt down in front of him. He almost immediately plunked down himself and said, “OK, let’s bless each other.” A good person makes others comfortable in their skin, helps them want to be better human beings.

HUMANITY: What would you say to a young person who wants to follow in your footsteps and make an impact in the world as you have?

DT: We oldies become cynical. You young people dream that the world can become a better place, and so I usually say to them, “Go on dreaming. Go on being idealistic. Don’t allow oldies to make you cynical.” And so, if a young person wants to ask me, I say dream, dream, dream. Dream and just go on dreaming and dream that you will be helping God to make this a better world.

HUMANITY: Over the course of your career, you achieved quite a level of notoriety. Were there any surprises or negatives about becoming so well known?

DT: It’s OK when it helps you to help other people. I think I’m vain, but it’s wonderful to have a wife like Leah who really pulls you down a few pegs when you think you are very [important]. We went to West Point Military Academy, and at the end the cadets said, “Here is a cap for a memento,” and I tried it on and it didn’t fit me. Now, a nice wife would have said: “Oh, the cap is too small.” She said: “His head is too big.” And more recently she found a bumper-sticker kind of thing, which said: “You are entitled to your wrong opinion.” So I have someone readily available to puncture my balloon, you know. She’s wonderful—very good for me.

HUMANITY: What was it like receiving a Nobel Prize?

DT: I mean, it was very important. You say certain things before you get the Nobel Peace Prize, then you get a Nobel Peace Prize and you repeat the things that you said when nobody paid attention and suddenly it’s as if an oracle is speaking. But it was a prize given to me representatively. It was a prize they wanted to give to all of those who were involved under the anti-apartheid struggle. They couldn’t give it to everyone, so they thought, “He’s an easy name, Tutu. It’s easily recognizable.” But it was fantastic at the time and it’s an amazing thing. On the eve, I think the eve or maybe it was the same day, you’re in Oslo in this hotel, and you stand on the balcony in the evening. It’s a fantastic candlelight procession to honor you and it seems to go on forever and ever, with the candles flickering in the dusk. Yeah, just a fantastic experience, a fantastic honor.

 

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ALEX EAGLE

Everyone has that friend in their life, don’t they? The sort of friend who is the go-to for everything, be it where to find the best reflexologist or the phone number of a feng shui master, the latest label to pack for vacation or even advice on how to decorate your bathroom. Their taste level is sky-high and they have an address book bursting with zeitgeisty things, but better still, what they really relish is being able to share. That, in a not-so-succinct nutshell, is Alex Eagle, creative director of the multibrand lifestyle emporiums The Stores and Alex Eagle at Lexington Street.

“What’s the point of discovering something if you can’t share it with anyone?” asks Eagle at her sprawling loft apartment in London’s Soho, which is decorated with glossy banana-leaf plants and gargantuan cacti, Tanya Ling artwork, midcentury coffee tables loaded with artful piles of travel and design tomes, and cozy sheepskin sofas, which this afternoon she ignores, regardless of being pregnant, opting instead to sit on the floor, legs elegantly folded beneath her.

Her edit runs the gamut from carefully selected ready-to-wear—The Row, Hillier Bartley, Lemaire, exclusives from Vetements—to achingly chic home wares, including hexagonal glassware by Giberto Venezia, handmade ceramics by Tortus Copenhagen and Picasso painted plates … to eat off or display on the wall, you decide. There’s glittering fine jewelry, too, by Susan Foster and Fernando Jorge, not to mention rare records tracked down by The Vinyl Factory, as well as one-off vintage finds sourced from auctions and markets in Paris, Brussels and Antwerp, like the trio of 1957 vinyl lecture-hall chairs constructed by Jean Prouve, which just sold, via Instagram, before they were swiftly shipped to their new home in L.A. “I’m not going to lie, I was sad to see those chairs go,” smiles Eagle, striking a match to light her own Alex Eagle candle, a custom blend of geranium and sandalwood made by French fragrance house Jehanne de Biolley. There are other clever collaborations, too, like New & Lingwood x Alex Eagle—a lineup of mannish silk dressing gowns, smart smoking jackets and velvet slippers that she created together with the English tailors and shirt makers (who also happen to be the outfitters for Eton College).

This 33-year-old former fashion editor/stylist/PR consultant is one of the most exciting additions to the retail landscape. But in fact, Eagle ran something of a boutique long before she opened up her stores. She played shop from her former home and sold the occasional coffee table, mirror and trinkets to her friends. “Of course, I had no idea about margins,” she admits. But that’s where the concept started. Her first outlet, Alex Eagle Walton Street, housed in a three-story terrace townhouse, was simply an extension of her home, which at that time was conveniently located opposite. That was only 18 months ago (she’s already outgrown the space, shuttering its doors the week we meet). Now there’s The Store x Soho House Berlin, a huge 30,000-square-foot retail and concept workspace on the ground floor of the hotel and members club, complete with organic café, The Store Kitchen, juice press, The Vinyl Factory, even a Cecconi’s. She followed that with The Store x Soho Farmhouse in Oxfordshire, nestled in the rolling green hills of the English countryside. But her newest showroom, Alex Eagle at Lexington Street, housed in an empty loft space, is in the heart of Soho and will be followed later this year by The Store, to open on neighboring Brewer Street in a former car park. Basically she’ll be presiding over a vast prime chunk of central London, on the sort of scale that Dover Street Market or Selfridges wouldn’t sniff at.

As well as curating can’t-live-without desirables and collaborating with established brands, she designs her eponymous fashion line, a capsule collection of 12 timeless pieces. “It’s become my uniform,” she says of the sartorial building blocks that she developed as a means to fill the gaps in her own wardrobe; cue necktie blouses (as sensual as they are smart), camel-hair coats and silk tunics in a palette of mostly black, ivory and navy. With the exception of forest green, Eagle rarely wears anything resembling a color. One glance at her reference points and it’s entirely clear that she’s a Sofia Coppola/Alexander Calder/Barbara Hepworth/original Calvin Klein kind of a girl. “The idea largely came from how men like to shop, and that attitude of investing in high-quality basics.” Menswear is a big source of inspiration, and she wears a lot of it herself, Hermès being a favorite.

“In a dressing room, you can convince yourself that you need an ‘it’ thing in your life, but in the cold light of the day, realistically, what will you be reaching for at 7 a.m., when you have a full schedule of meetings, followed by drinks with friends and then dinner with the boyfriend without the time to change in between?” She may not be a trained designer—quite simply, she hired a pattern cutter—but she knows exactly the kind of clothes women like her want to wear.

And she knows the kind of places that people like to shop in, too. “The idea with Alex Eagle at Lexington Street is to also bring in experts for talks and activities,” she says, visibly excited by the prospect. “There might be a great yogi in London for a week. I’d want to host classes on the lower ground floor; it could be a space for Pilates, too. It will be ever changing, always evolving,” she races. “If you want to buy a juice that’s fabulous, if you want to buy a £2,000 coat, that’s great, too, but it’s a place to hang out in.”

www.thestores.com/www.alexeagle.co.uk 

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QUINCY JONES

Sunny Levine was born into music royalty. He’s the grandson of the legendary Quincy Jones, who’s worked with everyone from Ray Charles to Frank Sinatra, Miles Davis to Michael Jackson. Though Sunny has forged his own path as a producer and artist, the L.A. native has always known where to turn first for advice. In an unparalleled career spanning almost seven decades, Jones has left his mark on the music world not only as a producer, composer, musician and songwriter but as a trailblazer in transcending racial barriers, too. A dedicated humanitarian committed to social justice, Jones was the first African-American to become VP of a major music label and to write major motion-picture film scores—all while enduring criticism for his three interracial marriages, the first of which was to Sunny’s grandmother. But above all else, in Sunny’s eyes, Jones has just always been a grandfather—one with enormous shoes to fill…

My granddad’s a funny cat. He’s not your average grandfather. I don’t think I’ve ever been to a movie with him or the park or a ball game. Even when I was younger he told me to call him GP, short for grandpa. He still calls me GS, for grandson. Now that he’s a great-grandfather, he tells my niece, “Call me GG.”

My grandmother, Jeri Caldwell, was his high school sweetheart and first of three wives; they met in Seattle and then moved to New York together, so she was there from the beginning of everything, since he was a teenager. My mother, Jolie, is their only child. They divorced when she was about 8.

I was born in L.A. in 1979. We moved to upstate New York a few years later to sort of get away from disco and L.A. It was getting weird. My first real memory of my grandfather is of him visiting us in upstate New York, in the snow. It wasn’t of him being a superstar producer. Then we moved to England when I was 4 and we’d see my grandpa once in a while, but I really got to know him when we moved back to Los Angeles when I was about 7 or 8. He was getting divorced [from Peggy Lipton] and he was living at Hotel Bel-Air at the time. We’d go there and hang out or take walks.

My grandfather started making Michael Jackson’s Bad right after we got back from England. We lived right by the studio where they did it and would go by all the time after school. I was a huge Michael Jackson fan, and I remember they had really good food and candy at the studio. It was pretty wild. I wasn’t totally aware of just how famous he was.

Somewhere around that time he got a house and it became the epicenter of where we would all hang out, go swimming, play basketball. There was a lot of life and I felt like all the kids were kind of the same age. I am the second grandchild (my brother is the first). There were no other grandkids until I was 16, but my aunts [Rashida Jones and Kidada Jones] were around my age.

I vividly remember one night a crazy dinner party going on at his house when we stopped by. Lionel Richie and all these people that I actually knew were sitting there. Then there was this dirty, weird white guy. I asked my mom, “Who’s that dirty guy?” She said, “That’s Bob Dylan!” I didn’t even know who Bob Dylan was at the time.

I’ve been making records since I was 14 and I’m 37 now, but never along the way have all the floodgates been opened for me; he doesn’t believe in that. However, I do turn to him for different kinds of advice. I wish I had a little bit more of my grandfather’s ability to just put big things together and make them happen, and his confidence and bullish way where he’s just like, “We’re going to do this and it’s going to get done,” and then it happens. He is just so good at putting things together—putting people together, putting deals together, and seeing all sides of things. He just makes these grandiose records that are so dialed in and so worked out and perfect.

After everything my grandfather did as a big-band arranger and having big bands, making records, producing records and working with some of the biggest names in music in the early ’60s, he started doing film-score work. That was a big deal. There were no black people in that world. So I feel like that was the biggest jump, where he was like, “Alright. I’m doing this,” and got in that door and did big movies. He seemed almost defiant about it, like, “Why can’t I do that?” I think that’s a big part of his whole career and trajectory. People say, “You can’t do that, you can’t pull that off,” and he’s like, “Yeah, I can. Why not?”

Ten years ago he put on a concert in Rome that was called We Are the Future to raise money for charity to build schools in Africa. They were trying to write a song like a new “We Are the World,” which he produced in 1985.  My granddad was like, “Why don’t you try to write a song for this thing?” I was like, “Really?” He had heard what I’d done but I didn’t think he believed in me that much. So I went away and wrote these songs and I brought one back. He was like, “That’s cool. Go do another one.” Then I came back the next day with another song and he was like, “That’s it. That’s great.” He was like, “Go see Rod [Temperton] tomorrow and you guys work that up and get some new parts in it.” Rod wrote all the Michael Jackson songs, like “Always and Forever.” So we worked on the song and then we went to Rome and performed it and recorded it. It was really great. My grandfather is not a guy who does something like that just to be nice. That was a big notch on my confidence belt.

But the best piece of advice my grandfather gave me doesn’t relate to music. I was about 14 and we were at the Montreux Jazz Festival in Switzerland. There was this pretty, young girl there. She was close to my age and he sort of looked at me and said, “These boys don’t know what they’re doing. All it’s about is humor. If you make a girl laugh, that’s it. That’s all they want is to laugh.” He was like, “You’re funny. Just go be funny.” That trip affected me big time because we spent so much time together. It was all about staying up all night, going to see music and hanging out. Maybe not the norm for a traditional grandfather, but he’s Quincy Jones.

 

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KATE ROTHKO PRIZEL

MANY PEOPLE HAVE PRECONCEIVED NOTIONS REGARDING AN ARTIST’S CHARACTER. THE ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISTS WERE KNOWN AS STORMY, MOODY INDIVIDUALS, WITH PAINTER MARK ROTHKO DEPICTED AS ESPECIALLY DARK AND ANGRY. BUT THERE WERE MANY SIDES TO ROTHKO, SAYS ONE PERSON WHO KNEW HIM BETTER THAN MOST.

“When I’ve seen my father portrayed, I’ve sort of winced, because it doesn’t sound like him or come across like him,” says Rothko’s daughter, Kate, now a retired pathologist. The Mark Rothko she knew painted masterpieces, but also hung holiday ornaments and was a jovial storyteller nicknamed Bunchie by his wife. “He was a very warm, humorous person,” she says. “I remember him telling me silly stories as a child. He was a laughing, joking person, so when I’ve seen him portrayed as this tyrannical screamer, it’s been very difficult. He was also a normal father.”

Kate grew up surrounded by her father’s works, densely hued floating rectangles or “color fields” that are iconic in the canon of abstract expressionism, the first American fine-art movement. Aged 19, Kate embarked on a landmark legal case known as “The Matter of Rothko,” in which she ultimately saved more than 700 of Rothko’s paintings from being stolen by his gallery, aided and abetted by the executors of his will—people he thought were his best friends. Relying on an iron will no doubt inherited from her father, Kate demonstrated that justice can prevail, even in the most impenetrable circles of the art world. Today we are able to see this treasured artist’s works, works that would have disappeared altogether from the public view, thanks to her.

Kate Rothko Prizel was born in New York in 1950 to Mark Rothko, a Jewish immigrant from the Russian empire, and his second wife, Mary Alice Beistle, an American illustrator known to everyone simply as Mell. Each night, Rothko would come home from his art studio and tap “hello” on the basement kitchen window. “We had a brownstone at that point, so the kitchen was one of those where you would have to go down a few steps below the street level. My mother was usually down there preparing dinner and I might be helping her when he came home and knocked on the door.” Whenever Rothko was home, you could guarantee there would be classical music playing on the phonograph. “Mozart, all kinds of Mozart, from opera to chamber music to symphonic music,” she says. “He also fairly successfully taught himself to play a Mozart piano sonata, sitting at an upright piano on our lower floor, which I was very impressed by.”

 

 

Rothko was at his studio six days a week, but on Sundays his job was to take Kate to Central Park. She remembers her father teaching her to ride a bicycle, even though he could not ride himself. “His idea of teaching me to ride a bike was basically to run behind the bike and scream, ‘Don’t fall!’ ” The family celebrated both Hanukkah and Christmas, and Kate remembers one year her father said he didn’t like that the Christmas tree balls dangled down from the tree; “He thought it was not cheerful,” she says. “So he took them all off the strings and attached them directly to the branches, sticking out.” One of the few times Kate remembers hearing her father curse was when he struggled to position the star on top of the 12-foot tree.

The family home was eclectic and unusual, filled with a combination of her father’s paintings and repurposed furnishings, often picked up at the Salvation Army or in Cape Cod, where the family vacationed for several summers. They never installed any formal lighting for Rothko’s pictures. “We simply had white walls and white ceilings, and projected light off the ceiling to light the paintings,” she says. “Now, in museums, you have to stand a few feet away from the art, but in our house you were living with the art, and there didn’t seem to be any worry about it. It was just part of the whole atmosphere.”

Her first memory of a specific painting is of Homage to Matisse, one early work Rothko painted in his mature style. “I was 4 or so, and I know we had other paintings hanging in that apartment as well, but that’s the one that stood out to me so vividly. It was very important to my father because he worshipped Matisse. It’s so distinct among my father’s paintings that it stuck with me my entire life.” Her father’s workaholism was well known, but Kate did not feel neglected, or in competition with art for Rothko’s attention. Rather, she loved the art and was intoxicated by it.  “To me, there was nothing in the world greater than to be an artist,” she says. “I grew up thinking the art world was the most idealistic, magical world. I didn’t think any other world could compare.”

Rothko painted alone, but often, Mell would drop Kate off at his studio for the day. Rothko would sit Kate in her own corner with some paints and paper and face her away from him. “I think he hoped that I would entertain myself so that he could really paint in peace and quiet without feeling like he was being watched.” She did sometimes observe him, though, from the corner of her eye. “I certainly have images at the back of my mind from visits to various studios when he was working on different projects,” she says. On her 12th birthday, Rothko gifted her one of those paintings, a study in orange and reds, inscribed to her.

 

 

When she was 16, Kate and Rothko took a cross-country train trip together. It was 1967 and Rothko was teaching a class at Berkeley. He refused to fly, so Mell flew with Kate’s younger brother, Christopher, and Kate traveled by land with her father. “It is now the trip where I look back and wish I had talked to him about his philosophy of art, about his family history, all sorts of things … but we both just spent a lot of the trip in kind of awkward silence.” She’ll never forget sitting next to Rothko watching the sun set as the train crossed the great Salt Lake in Utah in a miraculous explosion of red, amber and violet.

A year later, in the spring of 1968, after completing a series of 14 huge, monumental paintings for the Rothko Chapel in Houston, Rothko suffered a mild aortic aneurysm, with devastating after-effects on his body and mind. Rothko became depressed and difficult to communicate with. And for six months, under doctor’s orders, he painted on a small scale, until he couldn’t bear it any longer and returned to his large-form paintings, creating a series of foreboding black-on-gray canvases. “It was very hard for me to separate the increasing darkness of his paintings from his mood,” says Kate. “It took me quite a number of years after his death to understand that those dark pictures were really about him taking his work in a new and, if you will, higher direction, rather than being a reflection of something personal in his life. I think this is perhaps the greatest evolution in my feeling about his work.”

In November 1977, seven years after her father died, Kate would win the battle to reclaim the work. But 97 paintings were never returned—including Homage to Matisse— these works still remain in private hands to this day. For years, the only thing she hung on the wall at home were two museum posters. “We were still students and weren’t in a place where we could have hung a Rothko,” she says. It wasn’t until she and Ilya (her husband and then boyfriend) bought a house and began raising a family of their own that they decided they were ready to hang the work at home. “I like living with them more than anything,” she says, and watching her own children and grandchildren light up in the presence of her father’s paintings has been especially gratifying. “Because that’s the way I grew up too … with them around me.”

 

 

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Arcana Books

CURATED BY LEE KAPLAN / ARCANA BOOKS

(8675 Washington Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232)

Arcana Books - Humanity

1 – Peter Lindbergh: The Unknown  

The Chinese Episode

Schirmer/Mosel

2011 

Arcana Books - Humanity

2 – Joseph Albers: Minimal Means, Maximum Effect

Nicholas Fox Weber, Jeannette Redense

Madrid 2014

 Arcana Books - Humanity

3 – Jean Dubuffet: Zeichnungen, Aquarelle, Gouachen, Collagen 

Kunstmuseum Basel

Switzerland, 1970

Arcana Books - Humanity

 4 – Edward Ruscha, Joe Goode 

HOPKINS, HENRY T., DOROTHY RUSCHA

& MASON WILLIAMS

1968

 Arcana Books - Humanity

 

5 – Andy Warhol’s Index (Book)

Andy Warhol, Stephen Shore, Billy Name, Nat Finkelstein, Paul Morrisey, Ondine, nico, Christopher Cerf, Alan Rinzler, Gerald Harrison, Akihito Shirakawa, David Paul

1976

 

 Arcana Books - Humanity

6 – 712 North Crescent Heights: 

Dennis Hopper

Photographs 1962-1968

Marin Hopper, Brooke Hayward

2001

Arcana Books - Humanity

7 – Jean-Michel Basquiat 

Tony Shafrazi, Gerard Basquiat

1999

 Arcana Books - Humanity

8 – Chris Burden: 74,77 

Chris Burden

Los Angeles, CA, 1978

Arcana Books - Humanity

9 – Richard Prince: Nurse Paintings 

Richard Prince, Matthew Collings

 

New York, 2003

 

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A Stylish Life: Elizabeth Leventhal

As soon as Labor Day hits, the fashion industry braces itself for their version of back-to-school bootcamp—12-hour workdays filled with shows, presentations, designer meetings and celebratory dinners commonly known as Fashion Week. In order to enjoy the glamorous moments the weeks afford, one has to be scrupulously prepared, with outfits lined up and go-to pit stops in mind. As Moda Operandi’s general merchandising manager, Elizabeth Leventhal is an experienced fashion week veteran. We checked in with her to find out how she has prepared for and will survive the long days and nights of New York Fashion Week:

Essential Gadget: Around September 1st , it’s time to change the case on my iPhone to a Mophie battery case (6).
Must-Have Apps: Uber and Resy, of course— survival for getting around, and securing last minute reservations for dinner at my favorite spots.
Source of Fuel: Of course, coffee always helps. I’m currently committed to La Colombe’s Draft Lattes (7).
Favorite Pit Stop: A quick mani a tenoverten (9)— their TriBeCa location is close to [show venue] Spring Studios. Also, I would be lying if I did not say I will also pop over to Cafe Gitane (1) at least once.
Favorite Cocktail SpotSant Ambroeus Madison (14) when Uptown. It’s across the park, but always worth the trip. Downtown would be Wallflower (8) in the West Village.
Everyday Scent: Rose from Le Labo (11)
Social Media Accounts to Stalk: @modaoperandi (of course!) and @Yourensemble and @JustinTeodoro

 

Elizabeth Leventhal - Humanity

 

Fall Wardrobe Essentials: Since I am nine months pregnant this fashion week, the wardrobe staples have changed a bit. This season’s will include: Citizens of Humanity Maternity Jeans (4), a Blazé Milano Blazer (3), a day-to-night dress like this Tibi Burnt Paprika Placket Suede Dress (5), a LBD like Dolce & Gabbana’s Flared Midi Dress (12), my new obsession this season, J.W. Anderson’s Large Pierce Shoulder Bag (13), any Aquazzura heels as you can run miles in them (2), and Proenza Schouler Booties which are perfect to take you from day to evening (10).

Photos:
1. @niamh_osullivan; 2., 3., 5., 10., 12., 13. courtesy of Moda Operandi; 4. courtesy of Citizens of Humanity; 6. courtesy of Mophie; 7. courtesy of La Colombe; 8. @wallflowernyc; 9. courtesy of tenoverten; 11. courtesy of LeLabo; 14. @santambroeus

 

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KELLY SLATER

I was always an avid reader, and as a youngster, I loved the magic kingdom that the Greek myths created. But time and the day-to-day seemed to dim those distant dreams of faraway places, until something spectacular happened that reminded me of the sheer brilliance of life lived like the gods. That something was seeing the perfect man-made wave. It was breathtaking in its perfection, not the messy perfection of nature. No, this wave emerged out of one man’s vision, as if Poseidon, the ruler of the sea, had aimed his trident and commanded, “Let There Be Surf.” Perhaps those were not the exact words uttered by my friend Kelly Slater when he saw his dream wave come to life, but the results were the same.

Some mere mortals might have been satisfied with 11 world surfing titles, but not Kelly, whose drive for mastery, whatever the endeavor, has taken him on a journey that reads from the outside like something almost supernatural. From humble beginnings in Cocoa Beach, Florida, where he first started riding waves, he has been able to remake surfing into the new Sport of Kings and develop an empire that would have been unheard of for a “surfer” just a few decades ago.

Kelly has matured along with the sport itself, and there is no separating the two, starting with his first sponsorships—which amounted to a couple of freebies, like tail pads and T-shirts—on up to official sponsorships with Sundek and OP, at a time when surf clothing was growing in popularity and brands started paying surfers to use their likeness. He joined Quiksilver in 1990 for what would be a 23-year relationship—a lifetime by industry standards—and he didn’t walk away at 42 because he was no longer relevant; he had opportunities and goals that had yet to be fulfilled. His surfing ability, like fine wine, has only gotten better with time; his wave judgment and contest skills are still unmatched. His training schedule is rigorous, organic and now ecologically friendly: With his eye ever on the horizon, he’s started his own brand of sustainable clothing, “Outerknown,” under Kering Group, the parent company of Gucci, Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga, among others. With this relationship and all its vast resources, Kelly’s signature clothing will be something luxuriously unique in an industry that has become dependent on high volume and quick turnover.

 

Kelly Slater - Humanity

 

It’s hard to imagine any other man with enterprises ranging from organic energy drinks to eco-friendly teen furniture with Pottery Barn finding time to paddle out during the recent big-wave Eddie Aikau Contest at Waimea Bay and get tubed on a day where the pros were calling the surf 50-plus feet. The crowd of thousands who had camped on the beach on Oahu’s North Shore to see the spectacular event—which was being held for the first time since 2009 due to a lack of big surf in the intervening years—were on their feet screaming their enthusiastic approval. After coming in fifth, Kelly posted a great shot of his fellow competitors to his 1.5 million followers on Instagram, where he graciously congratulated winner John John Florence and the Aikau family and said a heartfelt goodbye to friend and big-wave rider Brook Little, who had recently passed. Although I’m sure he wanted that title for himself, he was gracious and complimentary in his role as a true champion. Surfing is better from Kelly’s participation in it. He has helped to legitimize it and elevate its acceptance.

Years on the road living out of a suitcase and board bag have not diminished Kelly’s love for the sport or his sheer joy of surfing. He’s literally redefined the role of surfer, and the trail he’s blazed is being carefully analyzed by an up-and-coming generation of young men and women, for whom the opportunities now seem endless, as the whole world seems to have fallen in love with the sport, when just a few decades ago it was enjoyed by only a very select few. Long gone are the days when I could walk along the beach on the North Shore without seeing another footprint in the sand, or cruise the California coast with my dad in a ’52 Chevy station wagon looking at waves with no one out. There is a part of me that’s nostalgic for that seemingly simple past, but I’m so inspired with what Kelly’s been able to achieve. Man has been driven to create since the beginning of time, and through devotion, a drive for perfection and some great friends and mentors along the way, Kelly has helped make the art of surfing, once the dream of a few, a reality, with a man-made wave created to bring the joy of surfing to a global community. Entrepreneur, icon and friend—Kelly is all of these, and “Surfer” is the path he has chosen for greatness.

 

Kelly Slater - Humanity

 

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