JUNICHI ITO

HUMANITY: When and how did you first get interested in photography?

JUNICHI ITO: When I went backpacking to Europe I bought my first SLR camera. I thought it would be nice to capture the moment, and then naturally I got addicted to taking pictures.

H: What is it about photography as a medium that interested you?

JI: You can catch a moment, and what you see can be made into unlimited images and possibilities.

H: Tell me about Japan as a source of inspiration for your work. How is it manifested in your art?

JI: Cleanliness, perfection, graphic design, minimalism, precision

 

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H: Where do you go for inspiration?

JI: Museums.  I like being in nature, traveling, bookstores and surfing.

H: In general, what are your favorite aspects of Japan—what do you miss most when you are away from it?

JI: First thing that I have to say is the food. There are lots of options, and affordable prices. The second thing I love is the people. The hospitality is definitely some of the best in the world. The customer service is great.

 

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H: Who are some of your artistic heroes?

JI: Irving Penn, Josef Albers, Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, Tadao Ando, Ralph Gibson. Sometimes random young artists inspire me. I also get inspired by athletes, their mentality. Guys like Kelly Slater, Drake Jester, Ichiro.

H: What are some of your favorite places to shoot/work?

JI: The majority of my work is shot in the studio. I have a few favorite studios I like to work out of in NYC as well as my studio in Brooklyn. This is why I also love pictures from the road and taking photos from my travels. They are all different.

H: Enjoyable places to relax?

JI: I love bookstores. I stopped by Tsutaya bookstore in Daikanyama the other day. It was amazing. If I had time I would easily hang out there all day long.

 

Photos by Junichi Ito

 

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THE HAAS BROTHERS

“I sort of came out with a bang and I started dressing in drag,” recalls Simon Haas, one half of acclaimed design duo The Haas Brothers. “I knew I was going to get heckled. It’s kind of the worst social position you could put yourself in. But going through it, at the end of it, you’re like, ‘I’m not really afraid to do anything now.’”

Simon relates this story at his new design studio in the West Adams area of Los Angeles, where it’s clear that his hard-won fearlessness has paid off. He and his fraternal twin brother Nikolai now have 15 employees, a massive studio space, and an upcoming solo exhibition at R & Company. Not to mention a very impressive client roster; they have designed costumes for Lady Gaga, added their artistic touches to the Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles, and collaborated with Versace.

Simon and Nikolai were born in Los Angeles and grew up in Austin, Texas. They learned stone carving and construction from their father, a stonemason who now works in their studio. Their mother, a writer and opera singer, has chipped in too, designing a shell-adorned altar for their Ace Hotel project. And their older brother, actor Lukas Haas, will soon join the family; he is building a recording studio in the front of their new space.

Simon has a formal art education—he attended Rhode Island School of Design—but Nikolai doesn’t, and they reap the benefits of both Simon’s technical know-how and Nikolai’s lack thereof. Simon says that Nikolai “has fewer fucked up problems” because he never went to art school. But Nikolai is quick to point out the benefits of Simon’s schooling: “There are certain leaps that he can make because he’s been taught that I can’t.” Thus, it’s the perfect symbiotic relationship. But no, they don’t live together, and no, they do not want to share a hotel room.

“When people send us around the world to places, we have to say, ‘Don’t book us the same hotel room.’ Because, like, we’re adults,” laughs Simon. A couple of times, Simon and Nikolai even showed up to find one hotel room with two twin beds next to each other. “We’re like, ‘what the fuck!’” says Nikolai. “We’re 29 years old!”

Humor is central to both The Haas Brothers’ dynamic and their work. In fact, their naming system is largely inspired by Garbage Pail Kids; think “Dame Judy Bench.” But according to Simon, the humor serves a greater purpose than just getting a chuckle from a prospective client. It makes the work accessible. “You laugh immediately, and then you’re already in a different headspace and you approach the piece from a different spot,” he says.

Another tool they use to disarm is sex (sex and more sex). Some of their animal-shaped furniture is adorned with golden testicles, some of their pottery is more than suggestive of lady parts, and then there is The Sex Room…

But according to Nikolai, even The Sex Room isn’t about sex. “We were using sex as a tool to talk about the fact that we are very, very avidly anti-shame,” he says. “Shame in general to us just doesn’t really make any sense. It requires the participation or at least the perceived participation of somebody else. It’s not an individual feeling that you would decide to have. It all has to do with imposition and it all has to do with trying to please somebody else, which is just bullshit.”

And he speaks from experience. Learning to tune out the opinions of others has been integral to The Haas Brothers’ success. Before the Versace collaboration, for instance, “people were saying, ‘That’s gonna stop your career dead in the water,’” recalls Simon. “They say, ‘You’ll never escape Versace.’” But ultimately, Simon and Nikolai ignored the naysayers and followed their own inner compass. Or as Nikolai puts it: “You’re like, ‘No, fuck it. I want to do this.’”

Nikolai and Simon are incredibly opinionated, and will happily share their thoughts on atheism, feminism, and everything in between—however, their core message seems to be a simpler one: that love is natural, but hate is learned.

 

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SIUDY GARRIDO

In 1914, Spanish composer Manuel de Falla wrote El Amor Brujo (or Love, the Magician), basing the music and movement on his study of the Andalusians, a gypsy population known as the originators of flamenco music and dance. The gypsy girl at the plot’s center is forced to marry a man she doesn’t love, and after he dies, he haunts her.

When the piece debuted in Madrid, it was more or less a critical failure. Mainstream Spain had been suppressing the gypsies for centuries, and a celebration of their culture seemed ill fitted to their symphony halls. So Falla turned El Amor Brujo into a classical ballet and orchestra piece.

When Gustavo Dudamel, the Venezuelan conductor of the L.A. Philharmonic, and Siudy Garrido, the Venezuelan dancer-choreographer who fell for flamenco as a child, restage Falla’s piece in Los Angeles this spring, its flamenco roots will be revived.

“Our challenge with this production is to make the orchestra feel in harmony with the flamenco flavor,” says Garrido. Her company of flamenco dancers and the musicians will have to be completely in sync.

Garrido officially met Dudamel about four years ago. She had come to Los Angeles with her husband and frequent collaborator, filmmaker Pablo Croce. He had a round of meetings to attend. They received an invitation to a Venezuelan symphony event, encountering Dudamel at the dinner afterward. “Oh my God, I love your work,” the conductor gushed upon meeting Garrido. “We need to work together.”

“Of course,” said Garrido, a fan of his as well. “Whenever you want.”

Years before, when both were at early stages of their careers, Dudamel had seen the second show Garrido ever choreographed. Called Body and Soul, it featured an on-stage collaboration with salsa singer Roberto Santa Rosa. Her company, new at the time, was still fighting to establish itself.

“She’s had no choice but to [put the work out there] little by little,” says Pablo Croce, translating for Garrido, who is often more comfortable expressing thoughts in Spanish. “She had a lot of difficulty and lack of credibility from the start just because of where she comes from.” A blonde Venezuelan with an invigorating, enthusiastic on-stage elegance, she does not fit flamenco’s dark, sultry, traditionally Spanish image.

Garrido grew up around dance. Her mother taught ballet, jazz, contemporary and flamenco at an academy in Caracas. But no one pushed her. “My mom like, oh, you want to dance? Okay, you can do it then,” she recalls.

At 13, she told her parents she wanted to dedicate herself to flamenco. They “freaked out,” explains Croce, “because even though they love and live off of the academy of flamenco and other disciplines, they did not foresee a real easy path.”

She was determined, however, and moved to Spain at age 16 to train. Her teachers reacted to her with surprise. “If you grow up in the flamenco world in Spain and you are talented, everyone already knows it,” Croce says. “But she came from the new world with a great level of skill.”

At 19, she returned to Venezuela with the goal of forming her own company. She choreographed numbers for a tour her mother was leading, and after a Florida performance, two Disney executives who had been in the audience asked to meet the choreographer. They wanted her to choreograph a performance for Disney’s millennial celebration the following year.

“My mom said, ‘I think this is your first work. It’s not my company’s work, because they asked for you,’” Garrido remembers. A year later in 2000, with a newly formed company of mostly Venezuelan dancers, she did 80 performances in Miami.

Similar twists of fate have propelled her career forward in the years since, leading her to Romeo Santos, the Latin pop singer she performed with in Madison Square Garden, and to the Cirque du Soleil artistic directors who invited her to teach their dancers flamenco.

Her upcoming performance with Dudamel and the L.A. Philharmonic is another chance to experiment. “The benefit of all of this,” she says, “is to bring flamenco to wider audiences, so more people fall in love with it.”
 

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DOROTHY LICHTENSTEIN

THEY SAY EVERY GREAT MAN HAS A GREAT WOMAN BEHIND HIM. DOROTHY LICHTENSTEIN PERSONIFIES THIS STATEMENT AND AT THE SAME TIME EXPLAINS WHY HER HUSBAND ROY WAS MUCH MORE THAN A MASTER OF CONTEMPORARY ART.

One of my earliest memories of art is the work of Roy Lichtenstein. As a child, I can recall staring up at the work and liking it for no apparent reason, other than just the pure enjoyment. Maybe it was the colors, maybe it was the patterns, I am not sure. But one thing was sure: I was completely unaware of the impact it would have on me for the rest of my life. Art has the ability to impact you in inexplicable ways. It influences thought, stimulates senses and affects emotion. It was Roy Lichtenstein who I have to thank for the beginning of an exploration that has brought me so much. As your tastes evolve and opinions form, it’s easy to over think art. But there is one truth that doesn’t get lost—the pure enjoyment of standing in front of something that truly puts you in a state of awe. When the opportunity presented itself to sit down with Dorothy Lichtenstein, Roy’s widow and president of the Roy Lichtenstein Foundation, well, needless to say, I was excited. Often, I think that you can learn more about a person by the company they keep, and spending time with Dorothy exceeded my highest expectations. She is truly a special woman. It left me wishing even more to have experienced the pleasure of meeting Roy.

JF: I guess we should start at the beginning. How did you meet your husband?

DL: I was working at an art gallery in 1964. We did an exhibition called “The Great American Supermarket” because some of the artists were doing things that dealt with food. Even Jasper Johns had done beer cans, and Andy’s soup cans were in the exhibition. We thought instead of a poster, it would be great if we could get Andy Warhol to put an image on a shopping bag. Those times were very simple. We asked them. They agreed. I actually met Roy when he came in to sign the shopping bags. Andy had put a soup can on it, and Roy drew a turkey on it. So that was, you know, our announcement for the exhibition.

JF: What were some of the qualities that you initially liked about him?

DL: Well, his sense of humor. Let’s see. I met him, but he actually had a girlfriend at the time, and I had a broken leg. We went out and we had lunch. I just thought it was endearing. He was having a show in Europe in Paris, and he told me, he promised, he was breaking up with his girlfriend, but he had promised to take her to Paris, and so he had to keep that promise. He called me when he came back.

JF: And in 1968, you were married, right?

DL: Yes. But we met in ’64, 1964.

JF: And at that time, was there any way to possibly imagine what the art world would become?

DL: Well, absolutely not to what it’s become. I think people, artists, were happy if they didn’t have to have a day job. I mean, artists either taught or drove taxis or did something so they could earn a living. Even though money was certainly different then, but I think they were just really thrilled to stay afloat. I remember living in a kind of loft space that was something like $120 a month, and a friend of ours who used to call himself “slumlord to the artists.” He used to fix up lofts. He would actually put hot and cold water in and make spaces livable. He sold a huge bank building on a corner to this photographer. It’s still there, on the corner of Spring and Bowery. It’s a huge corner building, and it was built as the Germania-America Bank around the turn of the last century. When World War I broke out, nobody would put their money in the German bank so it was empty and it was used for records. Actually, the photographer still owns it. Anyway, we took a floor in it, and I remember the rent was like $300. We were thinking, well that was probably 1966, 300 dollars, how are we going to pay him 300 dollars? It was just sort of a different time in New York and all over the world. I think nobody ever thought they would actually become rich making art. I was at the Koons show last night, which is pretty great actually. I was thinking about how we used to joke. The first time Roy got a check that was from the gallery that was a little more than 10,000 dollars; I remember he said, “Look, we are thousand-aires.” He grew up in New York City, in a kind of upper-middle-class home, but as an art professor, there was very little; the salary was low, so we thought it was amazing [to be paid more than $10,000]. People still thought of artists in terms of the starving artist. Now that idea seems like something that was 100 years ago, like Van Gogh to Andy Warhol. You know, 1860 to 1960.

JF: And now it’s just like completely gone, it seems like.

DL: It is. Well, the truth is, of all the artists working or on the planet, there is probably a tiny percentage that actually make it, you know, actually become—

JF: Successful?

DL: Well successful, and make an impact. The ones that I have known, they are just sort of generous by nature I think. Bob Rauschenberg was a good friend, and he just thought art could save the world, bring peace, and he acted on it.

JF: I am curious. When did you both start to realize that he was going to be considered one of the premier artists of his generation?

DL: You know, he had a show in Paris in 1968. I somehow convinced him. Those were days when you stayed away on a trip for something like 24 days or more. You could get a discount on your airfare. It’s a crazy idea, but I convinced him that we would save money by going to Morocco. We were down to the southern tip of Morocco. Suddenly, in the middle of this sandy town in the last village, someone started calling, “Hey Lichtenstein!” And Roy turned to me, and he said, “I must really be famous.” It was a poet we knew, Ted Jones. He had been living in Holland with his girlfriend, and by coincidence, he was in the same small village in Morocco. I don’t think he ever, I think he thought that fame was fickle. He used to joke and say, “I’ll be sitting in my wheelchair with a crooked hat that someone just put on my head, and the nurse will be shaking me and saying, ‘Mister Lichtenstein, it’s time for your medication, get up.’” This all would have been a dream. I think he took it more or less with a grain of salt.

 

 

JF: What was your favorite part of watching his creative process?

DL: He really took time. He loved being in the studio. He was pretty regular to get down there. He really always managed to be down in the studio by 10 because people would come to work. Although, at that time, he only had one assistant and a kind of secretary, he was really willing to put in the time. If he was stuck, he might just come down and clean brushes, rinse them off. He put in the time, and whenever he was having an exhibition, there was never a question of meeting a deadline. He was already working on the next group of paintings or a sculpture or prints. I think even if it was graphic work, which people considered less important than paintings, I think he brought just the same creative juice to that.

JF: It’s interesting because the reputation I heard about him is almost contrary to what you come to expect from a lot of artists.

DL: I know. He was a secular humanist; that was kind of a nice thing. He treated everybody really as an equal. But talking about his work habits, he was very musical; when he was a teenager, I guess he heard Charlie Parker play. He had a friend—even though they were underage, they used to go down to the jazz clubs on 52nd Street. He had this ability—I was taking flute classes, and he had this ability, he could just pick up this flute, and if the radio was on, or television, he could just hear something and play it. His favorite instrument to listen to was the saxophone. I bought him a sax for his 70th birthday. He was really good at it, but he actually became a beginner. When I saw that, I realized what a gift it was. He practiced every day [just like a beginner] before we were going out. He’d actually leave the studio an hour early. Our friend, who helped me buy the saxophone, and I gave him six months of lessons with it. And at one point, our friend said, “Look, I know you know you have a sort of talent, but if you are not going to really study, then there is no point taking lessons.” Then Roy really did. He brought this beginner’s mind to doing it, and I realized that was really the gift he had with his painting. He had this enormous power of concentration and would direct it when there was something he wanted.

JF: I suppose that’s how he could really work on such different bodies of work?

DL: Well, he usually worked in groups. After he did something that might be very elaborate or involved, he might do something minimal or that could almost pass as abstract. He definitely brought that approach to his work, and he would make little sketches in notebooks or plan a group of paintings, and then if he was going to use it, he’d decide what size they should be and then project them. He had this opaque projector. Then he would loosely draw and then kind of redraw it on the canvas. His early work looks very artistic comparatively. To make the dots, he used a brush that he would dip in paint so they were very spotty. Later, he was able to get a piece of metal that was perforated which he’d have to clamp onto the canvas. He used oil and magna, which is unusual. Artists usually use oil or magna, but the dots had to be done in oil. Then eventually he could order perforated paper that you could just glue onto the canvas and rip off and wash. Actually, the methods of how he could paint changed as he learned different systems.

 

 

JF: What was it like among other artists—was it competitive? What was it like with dealers? What was the community like?

DL: He was lucky with Leo Castelli, really, the entire time of his career. They never even had any kind of contract. It was kind of a celebratory time, because people were paying attention. There’d be several openings on a Saturday. At one point, the openings were Tuesday nights. If it was a friend who was having a show, we’d usually wind up going to Chinatown afterward, because everyone could afford it at that time—a lot of food for a little bit of money. They really didn’t discuss, they didn’t get into, you know, the philosophy of art really, the way the abstract expressionists did, which would lead to big fights, of course. There was a lot of camaraderie.

JF: I read somewhere that you really loved Matisse. What artists did you both like to collect?

DL: Well, we did [like Matisse]. When we collected, we collected mostly drawings, Rauschenberg, Jim Rosenquist. I think Roy really felt that you could see, even if it was rough or exact, you could really see the hand of the artist; that drawing was the essence, the base of, you know, all art.

JF: What did the two of you like to do together?

DL: When we weren’t going out, we used just to like to hang out; maybe watch something on television, or just go out to eat. We stayed pretty much together. When we moved to Southampton in 1970, we were alone so much of the time. It wasn’t even called the Hamptons. It was pretty quiet. We had some friends—Larry Rivers, and we actually met De Kooning.

JF: Any memorable trips? Where did you like to travel?

DL: Roy only liked to travel for work, if he had an exhibition, or if he was working. He loved going out to California, to Gemini. Do you know that place? That was his idea of having to leave New York in cold winter, and we always used to stay at the Chateau [Marmont]. It was great, because we had an apartment, and we had friends there. That was his idea of a really great trip.

JF: Was there any specific body of work of his you liked most?

DL: Well, I really loved different ones at different times. And then, when Roy did these mirrors, I just loved them, because they looked like complete abstractions. You could read them as a mirror. One of the last groups he did, which were these landscapes in this Chinese style, I really loved. And then later on, he did a series of nudes, of two women, and it’s kind of ambiguous, but especially when I saw them at The Tate, because they have them high on the walls. I thought they were really different. At times, you could almost say that style was his subject matter. He did paintings that were made up of conceptualized brushstrokes and, well, actually the brushstroke itself. I think painting a conceptualized brushstroke is ironic—his work always had some irony in it. He wasn’t celebrating cartoons, but really more portraying archetypes of, say, the lovelorn girl, or sculptures of brushstrokes. I just think, how come nobody thought of it before. I thought that was an amazing idea.

JF: What’s your view on the art world today? Because of its popularity, do you think people are collecting art for love of the work or getting sidetracked, and missing out on the real enjoyment of collecting art?

DL: Well, I think, for whatever reason, maybe they enjoy having paid the highest price ever. Maybe it is more conspicuous in art, but it’s sort of this idea that money became the measure of everything, and that is so disheartening, because it reduces everything to what it costs. I do think that’s become a big part of the art world, but conspicuous consumption is all around us. It gets so, I don’t know, slick. Even myself. I used to like the fact that I had an old 1951 Ford Woody or this crazy old Jaguar that you couldn’t drive more than 15 miles without having it stalled. I guess I just have just seen it all. It’s like in the movie Get Shorty. In the end, when he comes out and there are all those black vans parked. I don’t know. I think that if you are an artist and you are working and that’s what you are given in life, that you go to art school. I am just comparing it to the fact that once upon a time no artist ever expected to really make money unless he was Picasso.

JF: It is funny, because at least for me, I am in my 30s, but I have romanticized about that generation of artists and now it does feel so slick. Sometimes it just feels like there is not enough substance.

DL: Yes, I know. I have that too, and sometimes I think I am just a dinosaur. The truth is that in the late ’60s, and even in the early ’70s, for minimalism artists like Don Judd and Karl Andre, it was really a struggle for an artist and the art galleries. They would close in the summer, but it did seem that certain things had more value. I mean, even a professor or a really good teacher was something that was valued.

JF: My last question [almost]. Who are today’s artists that you like?

DL: Let’s see. I really like Ellsworth Kelly, who is 91 now. I still really like the work that he does. But of the younger artists, I like David Salle’s work a lot, but I have to say, I don’t follow [it too closely]. I don’t really go around to galleries so much like I used to. Part of it is that I am not in New York so much, so it’s really hard for me to judge.

JF: What do you think Roy and his peers would think of it all?

DL: Well, I think Andy would have absolutely loved it. When I was in Paris last year, I opened my mini bar, and I took out a Perrier with an Andy Warhol on the Perrier bottle. Andy Warhol is, like, as famous as Elvis Presley.

JF: Maybe more so.

DL: Maybe more so. More famous than God. [ laughter]

 

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SHINJI KAWAI

Nestled in the mountains of Okayama Prefecture, a few hundred miles west of Tokyo, sits the unassuming Nihon Menpu denim mill. There, president Shinji Kawai heads up a business that’s been in his family since 1917, crafting premium selvage denim on 1920s-era looms and then dip-dyeing it in vats of natural indigo. The process is time consuming and old fashioned, but Kawai, with his reverence for tradition and quality, wouldn’t have it any other way.

Kawai’s been working at Nihon Menpu (which translates to “cotton cloth-maker in Japan”) since graduating from college 41 years ago; his ancestors started the business, so it was a foregone conclusion that he’d end up at the company. “It was a matter of course,” he says. “When I was little, I’d visit the factory, so learning how to work with the fabric was a natural evolution.” But over the past few decades, he’s seen the denim industry change tremendously. “The number of makers has rapidly declined,” he says. “In Okayama, there used to be cotton machines centered on denim, and synthetic-fiber machines related to polyester. But the synthetic-fiber machines have all been abandoned.”

Nihon Menpu produces fabric that’s revered by denim freaks the world over, and its methodologies are still kept secret, so competitors won’t copy them. But Kawai says his factory differs from that of other textile manufacturers because it has a hand in every stage of the denim. “We bring in the thread and turn it to cloth with dyeing, manufacturing, and finishing, then we link everything up to shipping,” says Kawai. “We can create many types of raw material: cotton, wool, flax, polyester, rayon. Dye-wise, we also have exceptional knowledge of indigo and deep blue.”
 

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Why did denim take hold so aggressively in Japan in the first place? “I think the surge of interest in denim here happened around 1990,” Kawai recalls. “I guess it was because the blue color of denim was thought to resemble America, and young people in Japan took that in.” Now, Japan is a mecca for denim collectors, and is renowned for its jean-centric vintage stores. “We’ve studied old Levi’s jeans, old Lees and old Wranglers,” says Kawai, “and we’ve reached the point where we can analyze data like the shape of irregularities in the thread, the depth of the indigo color, and the shape of the selvage and number of threads. As a result, we’re able to produce various indigo colors that express subtle mixed emotions.” And Kawai notes that denim has a unique property that sets it apart from nearly all other fabrics. “Normally when buying clothing, a suit for example, it’s at its best at the time it’s purchased,” he explains. “But with denim pants dyed with indigo, it’s best six months or a year after purchase. That’s about the time the color fades, and it becomes just right.”

Speaking of fading denim, Kawai is as much a fan of vintage as the next jean connoisseur. He says he still gets a thrill from “analyzing secondhand garments, and reusing cloth techniques that experts created many years ago.” But Kawai is aware that in order for Nihon Menpu to thrive, it needs to keep moving forward. “Our company does business with about 100 other companies, both inside and outside Japan,” he says. “We get information from those customers, and have discussions with designers and brands about their visions. We try to deepen our understanding of denim by talking about current worldwide trends.”
 

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While his company may be forward thinking, Kawai’s a traditionalist when it comes to hard work. The best piece of advice he’s ever received? “I was once told, ‘A person who is most severe with himself does it for his own good.’” Still, he isn’t all business all the time. He says he values people with “affectionate hearts,” and that the most important life lesson he’s learned is, “to have an attitude of thanks toward those you’re close to at home and at work.”

Kawai loves to travel to New York (which he calls “the center of the world”) and spent his college years in Tokyo, but otherwise, he’s lived his entire life in Ibara, Nihon Menpu’s home. And he says there’s good reason the company couldn’t make its premium denim anywhere else. “Nihon Menpu aims to produce high-class products, and for that reason, it’s imperative to have various Japanese cultural and emotional influences,” says Kawai. “On the production side, we currently employ 60 people, and everyone takes their job very seriously. We can also obtain world-class raw cotton for making products; the spinning industry here is at a high level.”
 

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For first-time visitors to Japan, Kawai recommends some must-see experiences: “You should definitely visit the temples in Tokyo, Kamakura, and Kyoto, and even experience Zen meditation,” he says. “After that, you should see the Jeans Street in Kojima, in Okayama Prefecture. In Tokyo, it would be sumo wrestling and kabuki theater.” They’re classic picks—after all, temples, Zen meditation, and kabuki have existed in Japan for hundreds of years. At the same time, the country’s always been at the forefront of technology. Asked about that dichotomy, Kawai says the past and future are actually more intertwined in Japan than most of us realize. “Japanese people basically have a serious and methodical temperament, so pushing technology and placing value on tradition are actually the same thing,” he says. “In general, I think the Japanese are good people—they don’t lie that much.”

 

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BOB MARLEY AND LEE JAFFE

EVER CURIOUS ABOUT WHERE MUSICAL GENIUS IS CREATED? IN THE CASE OF BOB MARLEY’S “I SHOT THE SHERIFF” IT WAS ON A BEACH IN JAMAICA WITH HIS BEST FRIEND, LEE JAFFE.

New York City, 1973. Lee Jaffe, a nice Jewish boy from the Bronx with a nose for trouble, was in a tight spot. It wasn’t anything he couldn’t handle. Just an experimental film that was falling apart—not like the Brazilian jail he’d had to survive in without getting sliced, not the stress moving truckloads of weed across the country. But while Jaffe had made his bones—and some serious cash—hustling weed and LSD all over the world, he was, first and foremost, an artist—and a savvy one at that. At just 23, he’d already seen his work, which ranged from conceptual performance pieces to multimedia paintings, included in two landmark exhibitions: “Projects: Pier 18” for the Museum of Modern Art in New York, and “From Body to Earth” in Rio, a collaboration with his good friend, the influential Brazilian artist Hélio Oiticica.

But now Jaffe’s latest project, a movie that he’d spent months working on and sunk all of his savings into, had just gone up in smoke, when his producer—and his money—mysteriously vanished in Chile, most likely thanks to a run-in with dictator Augusto Pinochet’s death squad. And now Jaffe was pissed off, anxious, and in need of a new creative trip. He didn’t function well when he wasn’t inspired.

And on that night, when he entered the New York hotel room of his musician pal Jim Capaldi, the founder and drummer of the British band Traffic, Jaffe stumbled upon his destiny. In the room with Capaldi was a soft-spoken Jamaican man of mixed- race ancestry who had just started growing out his dreadlocks. He was holding a cassette tape; a guitar sat on the floor next to him. “Lee, this is Bob—Bob Marley,” said Capaldi. “You should really listen to his record.”

 

 

As fate would have it, Jaffe had recently returned from a few months in London, where he’d been turned on to a new and absolutely mesmerizing musical art form that was still unknown in the U.S. One night, a Jamaican actress and model friend had called to tell him to be at her flat at 7 p.m. sharp—they were going to a movie. Jaffe arrived to find Esther waiting for him in a Firebird convertible with Island Records founder Chris Blackwell, a white Jamaican based in London who’d just expanded his reach into film producing. Off they went to Brixton to attend the premiere of The Harder They Come, director Perry Henzel’s portrait of Jamaican gangster “rude boy” culture. The music that provided its soundtrack was reggae, an offshoot of the country’s ska/rocksteady genres that was still in its early stages. Starring Trenchtown reggae god Jimmy Cliff, the film was a game-changer. “I was the only white American person in the audience,” recalls Jaffe. “I didn’t know anything about Jamaican culture. Zero. Nothing. No one knew what reggae was. And I’m sitting there in this crowd of Jamaicans and there were no subtitles, and I was mesmerized.”

And now, back in the U.S. just a few months later, Jaffe was face to face with the man who would soon eclipse Cliff as the heart, soul and face of reggae music. Marley put his cassette in the boom box and pressed play. It was “Concrete Jungle,” track #1 from Catch a Fire, The Wailers’ most recent record. “I’d never heard anything like that. I had absolutely no doubt that what Bob was doing would change the world. For Jamaicans, the Wailers were already the voice of the people, but outside of that world no one knew they existed. Except me.” Jaffe, who had made a habit of trusting his instincts, then seeing his hunches pay off, knew then and there that sticking around the skinny young Jamaican who had come to the states to buy equipment for an upcoming tour would be his next big move. All he had to do was convince Marley that bringing a white guy with no professional musical experience into his inner circle would be a good idea.

Jaffe had a few cards up his sleeves when it came to winning Marley over. He began by connecting with him in a common language. Jaffe pulled out his harmonica, asking if he was in the mood to play. Marley agreed and picked up his guitar, and the two men began to jam. Jaffe skills were legit—he’d played harp in a few bands before dropping out of Penn State—and Marley was impressed. So far, so good. Next up: providing the devout Rastafarian convert with some spiritual relief. Jaffe took Marley to a buddy’s place on the Upper West Side. “My closest friends from college had become the biggest herb dealers in New York,” says Jaffe. “So I take him to this apartment and there was like 700 lbs. of herb filling up this apartment. It was Columbian, the best you could get anywhere. Bob was really, really impressed. We bonded over that for sure.”

To seal the deal, Jaffe played cupid and set up Bob with his Jamaican friend, who happened to be in New York with Chris Blackwell. She and Bob hit it off romantically. (Marley would eventually become one of the world’s most notorious lotharios, whose conquests ranged from European supermodels to a young, pre- Vogue Anna Wintour.) But they also had other friends in common that made their coupling good for business. In the months since Jaffe had attended the Harder They Come premiere, Jimmy Cliff
—who was looking to cash in on his impending stardom—had left Blackwell’s Island Records label for a deal at A&M Records. Blackwell had known of Marley and the Wailers—whose socially conscious songs had already made them heroes among Jamaica’s poor—but he felt that reggae was still too obscure an art form to warrant his having more than one act on his label. But when Cliff flew the coop, Blackwell needed a replacement, and in stepped Bob Marley & the Wailers.

 

 

“It’s just a crazy coincidence,” says Jaffe. “I was maybe the only American guy who knew anything about reggae or had any idea that Island Records was about to bring reggae to the rest of the world. And here I am, hanging out with Bob Marley, this genius nobody knows about yet, who Island had just signed to be their only reggae act. The tape Bob played me, Catch a Fire, was actually his first upcoming release for Island. And the next day I’m introducing him to this gorgeous Jamaican girl who happens to be in New York with her best friend, who happens to be the owner of his new label.”

Needless to say, Jaffe was in. A few days after that first hotel jam session, Jaffe was on a plane to Jamaica, with an invitation from Marley to join him and a few friends for a trip to Carnival in Trinidad aboard Blackwell’s DC3 jet. Jaffe had a blast, and everyone, especially Bob, was taken by Lee’s seemingly effortless ability to blend in despite the obvious cultural difference. “I also brought this amazing Brazilian girl with me,” Jaffe says with a wry smile, “but that’s another story.”

Once Carnival ended and the group flew back to Jamaica, Jaffe says, “I just didn’t know what I was going to do with my life.” Then Marley invited him up to the house that Blackwell had just bought as Island’s home base in Jamaican, and he decided to hold off on buying a return flight back to New York. The two men drove to 56 Hope Road in Kingston, just down the street from the Prime Minister’s house. Neither he nor Bob knew it yet, but that sprawling estate—later known only as “Hope Road,” would become perhaps the most symbolically important piece of real estate in the history of reggae (and the future site of the Bob Marley Museum).

“Behind this old colonial house was this shack, the former slave quarters, and they had turned it into a little rehearsal room,” says Jaffe. “So I walk in, and there were the Wailers. Peter [Tosh] is there with Bunny [Wailer] and they’re playing the song ‘400 Years.’ Then they go into ‘Slave Driver.’ You could feel the vibes, the colonial vibes, the legacy of slavery—just the weight of it. It was amazing. I wanted to stay just because it was this incredible new adventure. I felt this was someplace very, very special—with the most amazing people I’d ever met. Nowhere else on the planet could be more interesting than where I was right then. I didn’t want to leave.”

Jaffe ended up living on Hope Road with Marley for the next three years. With a natural skill set that meshed perfectly with the needs of the music business, Jaffe served as the Wailers’ jack of all trades: road manager, booking agent, publicist, harmonica player (he’s featured on several of the Wailers’ iconic tracks), tour photographer, and of course, herb connect. Occasionally they’d stay at Bob’s wife Rita’s house. It was one night, while watching Jaffe sleep on the floor of Rita’s porch, that Marley was inspired to write the opening lyrics to one of his most iconic songs, “Talking Blues.” “Cold ground was my bed last night, and rock was my pillow, too—that was about me,” Jaffe recalls fondly.

This period, 1973-75, was among the most inspired in Marley’s personal and musical development. The Wailers recorded some of their best early work, including Burnin’, and its lead single, “I Shot the Sheriff,” which catapulted them onto the world stage. Along with maturing as a songwriter, Marley also continued to develop as an activist and cultural figure. For Marley, reggae wasn’t simply an art form—it became a way of life that was profoundly influenced by the Rastafarian principles of social justice and public service—not to mention a devotion to the spiritual and medicinal benefits of marijuana.

Jaffe had no problem putting his own artistic ambitions on the back burner while living in Jamaica. “It was more than being about one person—it was about making a revolution,” he says. “As an artist I felt nothing I could do would make a bigger impact than getting this music out to the world. And there were things I could do to help. I had the privilege of spending time with Marley and playing harmonica while he wrote some of these amazing songs.”

Aside from a rotating cast of musicians, girls, and various hangers-on, the only people who actually lived at Hope Road during that time were Marley, Jaffe, and their two teenage gangster bodyguards, Frauzer and Takelife. “Whenever I was with Bob, no one bothered us,” remembers Jaffe. “But if I went someplace on my own, Bob made those two kids go with me.” (Marley had good reason to be concerned. A year after Jaffe left Jamaica, Bob and his wife Rita were both shot by gunmen during an assassination attempt at Hope Road. In 1987, Tosh and several friends were murdered during a home invasion robbery. Frauzer and Takelife were later killed on the streets of Kingston, after they stopped working for Marley.)

In 1974, Peter and Bunny decided they were ready to pursue their solo careers and left the band on good terms. Marley renamed the band Bob Marley and the Wailers, and continued his ascent to international superstardom. Aside from a six-month-long fight that started when Jaffe and Marley brawled in an L.A. hotel room following an argument over the Natty Dread cover art (a fight that ended when Jaffe got arrested with weed pollen at a roadside checkpoint in Kingston and Marley bailed him out), he was a constant presence at Hope Road.

Jaffe eventually moved out of Hope Road in 1975, following a dust-up with Marley’s new manager. The plan was to move back to New York, but when Peter Tosh played him a few songs he’d just written, Jaffe decided to stick around and try his hand at music producing. The result: Tosh’s classic solo debut, Legalize It, which was financed with $15,000 of seed money from Marley (who appears on the album) as well as the proceeds of Jaffe’s herb business. In typical fashion, Jaffe took on multiple roles to ensure the album’s success, including shooting the cover photograph of Tosh toking on a pipe in a field full of ganja, and securing a deal with Columbia Records.

Jaffe moved back to New York in the late ’70s and continued to produce. He was also a constant presence at Sloan Kettering when Marley, who was diagnosed with cancer in 1977, was receiving treatment there in 1980. Marley had traveled to New York under the radar, following an onstage collapse during a concert in Pittsburgh. Jaffe had a place in Putnam County, and he and Marley decided to take a few days off from treatment and spend a few days in the country. “It was really, really, sad, because he was such a vital person,” says Jaffe. “To me, he was responsible for helping me to transform from someone who didn’t care about living past 30 to really taking care of my body and coming around to a way of thinking that you could live eternally. And then here he was, 7 or 8 years later, and he’s deteriorating right in front of me. On the other hand, I was glad to be with him and support him in any way I could.” Jaffe took Marley to the airport, where he was about to fly to Germany for a round of experimental treatment. “I knew it was going to be the last time I’d see him. His dreadlocks had just fallen out from the chemo, which was a really shocking thing. He was already very, very thin. I got him to laugh about the dreadlocks, which I thought was a great accomplishment.” Marley died six months later in 1981 at a hospital in Miami. He was 36. “Towards the end, there were a lot of people trying to get things from Bob, and I didn’t want to be involved with that,” says Jaffe. “But we spoke every week on the phone. He taught me more about art and music and humility than anyone I’ve ever met.”

 

 

For the next 30 years, Jaffe alternated between making his own art and working as a producer and consultant in the music business. He also got back into film, co-producing musical pioneer Tricky’s directorial debut Brown Punk and executive producing the environmental documentary Flow: For Love of Water. Last year, after moving back to New York after nearly 20 years in Los Angeles, he returned to art-making full time with a series of wildly inventive multimedia paintings of the Brazilian rainforest, which incorporate photography, audio and video. In addition, Jaffe will be mounting an installation about boxing at Ireland’s Museum of Modern Art in 2015.

Jaffe, who in 2003 wrote a memoir about his days with Marley, was also prominently featured in Marley, director Kevin MacDonald’s celebrated 2012 documentary biopic, which helped re-introduce the reggae legend to a new generation of international fans and gave Jaffe a chance to relive those magical few years on Hope Road. MacDonald and Jaffe have also begun development on a fictional adaptation of Jaffe’s experience working with Tosh on Legalize It. Jaffe has remained close friends with the Marleys ever since, and occasionally plays harmonica onstage with Bob’s sons Stephen and Julian.

“To experience the music Bob created was just very, very special,” he says. “It didn’t feel as if Bob was even writing the songs. It’s like they were coming from this other magical place, that he was channeling something much greater than himself. To watch it happen, to be there and be part of it, there was nothing I could imagine myself doing at that time that would be more important, more exciting. And it was happening every day.”

 

 

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SIDNEY FELSEN

SIDNEY FELSEN WAS AT THE EPICENTER OF THE ART WORLD IN THE 1960S. HIS PRINT SHOP AND STUDIO, GEMINI, WAS HOME TO THE MASTERS OF CONTEMPORARY ART: JOHNS, LICHTENSTEIN, RAUSCHENBERG, STELLA. BUT MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE ART CREATED INSIDE THE WALLS WERE THE FRIENDSHIPS, STORIES AND MEMORIES MADE THERE.

When best friends Sidney Felsen and Stanley Grinstein decided to try their hand in the art world there was no intention of reserving their place in art history. However, today there is no denying it. In 1966, together with master print maker Ken Tyler, they founded Gemini G.E.L., a print studio and artist workshop in Los Angeles. It wasn’t before long that the masters of American art history ( Jasper Johns, Ellsworth Kelly, Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Robert Rauschenberg, Richard Serra, Frank Stella, etc.) would make regular pilgrimages to California to create at Gemini. I sat down with Felsen, who turns 90 this year, to discuss everything from the creative process of Bob Rauschenberg to the basketball skills of Frank Stella and Bruce Nauman, and how two best friends turned a passion into an institution.

JF: Where did the name come from and what inspired the idea to open Gemini?

SF: The studio was started at the same time as the launching of the Gemini space capsule, and so that was an easy connection. How it started? In my own case, I grew up knowing I wanted to be an accountant. I majored in accounting, I graduated college, and I became a CPA and practiced accounting for many years. But somewhere along the way, I became interested in learning about art. I started reading about it, and then started going to art galleries, and then decided I wanted to paint. I first took painting lessons at the Frederick Kann School of Art here in Los Angeles. I studied painting there and then started going to Chouinard, which later became Cal Arts. I took just general courses in painting, drawing and sculpture and became interested in ceramics. I went to art school for 15 or 20 years, just for fun, weekends and evenings. Then I had a client who had an art gallery, and he was importing prints from Europe, and it looked interesting to me to have something like a workshop in Los Angeles. So I went to my best friend, Stanley Grinstein. Stanley and his wife, Elyse, were seriously collecting contemporary art, and I proposed to Stanley that we start an artists’ workshop, and we agreed to do it. In order to have a print studio, you have to have a printer. Ken Tyler had a shop he had started called Gemini Limited. It was a custom printing shop. In late 1965, the verbal agreements happened, and by the beginning of 1966, February, the shop was up and running.

JF: How were you able to attract artists initially?

SF: Gemini is an invitation workshop; we invited artists. Man Ray came to Los Angeles, for his retrospective at the County Museum, and he stayed at the Grinsteins’ house. He started coming to the workshop and just started hanging around. He even suggested to us that he do something. He did three editions with us. I think one of the early attractions was that California had palm trees, and the ocean, and the mountains. You’d come here, and you’d really enjoy your life; whatever it was, it worked. The first artist that really set the tone for Gemini was Bob Rauschenberg. He was the heart of what, in those days, was called the New York art scene. He was one of the young whippersnappers, and he was coming to Los Angeles somewhat regularly. He had his skating performances at Culver City, and he was a pal, and so he came out in February of 1967, and he did a series called “Booster.” He wanted to do a self-portrait of inner-man; that was the way he explained it. He wanted his whole body X-rayed. He asked me if I knew any X-ray doctors. It just so happened one of my closest friends from high school and college, Jack Waltman, was an X-ray doctor, and we went to see him. Bob wanted a 6-foot X-ray, one piece that he’d develop his print from. We found out that all X-ray machines are 1-foot, except there was one in Eastman Kodak in Rochester, New York that was a 6-foot machine. Bob didn’t want to travel, so he stayed here and had the six 1-foot plates made. Out of that, he developed his print called “Booster,” which became an icon of the print world and still is. Bob helped us get Frank Stella. And then Bob helped us get Claes Oldenburg. And then we invited Jasper Johns. We wrote a letter to Jasper, and he agreed to come out. Ed Ruscha was here locally, and he worked with us. I’m talking about the first three years of Gemini, 1966, ’67, and ’68. Ken Price worked with us during that time too, as well as Roy Lichtenstein. Within those three years, we had all these great artists working with us. It was fantastic.

Then shortly after that, Ellsworth Kelly. Invitation was always by phone call, or go see somebody, or a letter. I think, in a sense, a lot of times one artist helped us get another artist. If you asked the question, “How do we choose an artist?” a lot of times, we used the advice of an artist, or museum curators, or collectors. A lot of times, artists suggested people that we work with, and it’s been good for us.

JF: What was the idea behind making prints? Was it to make art more accessible to the masses?

SF: That’s part of what printmaking is. But truthfully we started it to have fun; we wanted to be around the artists. And so, once we got into it, and had all these accomplished artists around us, we realized the importance of it. I’d ask myself the question, “Why do artists make prints?” I felt that it was the accessibility of it. Many artists would do 6, or 8, or 10, or 12 paintings a year. These were very accomplished artists, and they would be shown in a gallery and somebody would buy the work, and it would never be seen again unless a museum would buy it. So here was a chance to make 50 of this or 35 of that, and they would be in galleries in Chicago, New York, St. Louis, Miami Beach, and Europe. They were very much interested in the idea of the fact that the work could be seen everywhere, and the same way it could be collected and people could own it in all these different areas. A lot of people think artists make prints primarily for money, and that’s not true at all. If they did drawings or paintings or sculpture in the time they’d spend at print-making, it would have been more financially profitable for them, but they loved the idea of these works being seen around the world, and they also enjoyed the challenge printmaking offers.

JF: At what point did you realize how important these artists would end up being viewed?

SF: In the early days, we really didn’t understand. When we started, Frank Stella was 29 years old, and Bob [Rauschenberg] was the old-timer at 39. We didn’t quite understand how important these artists were. It probably took at least 10 years, and then all of a sudden you start realizing, wow, you know, we’re working with the most accomplished artists of our time, and they’re already in the history books, and the interesting part of that is they continued to work in a very high quality for the rest of their lives. Even today, Ellsworth Kelly is 91. He’s been working here for over 40 years, as well as Bruce Nauman, Ed Ruscha, and Richard Serra.

JF: At what point did you realize that Gemini would be viewed so significantly in art history?

SF: I don’t know when exactly. It sort of just happened, the more we read books, the more we saw exhibitions, retrospectives, conversations, articles we read. Like I’d say to my daughter, “You go to a museum and what do you see?” You see Jasper and Bob, and Roy, Ellsworth, Richard Serra, and John Baldessari. And it just happens. I think by incidents, incident by incident, you realize it more.

JF: Why do you think someone should collect prints?

SF: I’ll answer in a different way. In 1968, I was in New York, and I called Jasper and asked him if we could go to dinner and he said, “Yeah, but we have to go to somebody’s house.” There were these famous collectors in New York, Victor and Sally Ganz; Jasper and I went to their house and I was introduced to them. I walk in the living room, and I can’t exactly remember the details, but let’s say there was a drawing by Bob Rauschenberg, a print by Roy Lichtenstein, a painting by Jasper, and then, around the room there were several paintings, drawings, and prints by these great artists. I looked around the room at the prints and they looked just as good to me as the drawings did and even though I’d been around prints, I hadn’t had that kind of comparison so directly. I was just thrilled to see that. It isn’t a matter of, say, if you put a print next to a painting or a drawing, and say, “Oh my God, that looks terrible, take it down.” It’s a different process. It’s different, but the quality of the print stood up so well. Another reason artists do prints is the challenge. You know, they’re in their studio every day, and they do paintings or drawings or sculpture, and they’ll come here once a year or every two years, and they have an opportunity to work with printers. It’s collaboration. It’s something that if they did this in printing last time, they want to do something else the next time. And they’ll try this, and next time they’ll try something else. It’s always a great experience. They probably have a better opportunity of experimenting here than they would, say, in their own studio.

 

 

JF: I’m going to name artists, and if you could, just describe them as you know them, whatever comes to your mind. Jasper Johns?

SF: Very hard working, very careful, tedious the way he works. He would bring a picture of a painting, a photograph or a drawing; he wouldn’t copy it, but he’d use it as a reference. He’d look at it once in a while and use it in his imagery here. The print was always different. His drawings were different, and his prints were different than his paintings, but there were similarities and references from one to the other.

JF: Roy Lichtenstein?

SF: Phenomenally precise. If Roy would say, in July, “I’m going to be out next February 2nd” he’d come on February 2nd, and he was really very serious about working the eight hours, no goofing off. He was always doing something, and he knew what he wanted. He brought all the studies that he made in his own studio. He would use an opaque projector, and he would expand up on a wall or screen the scale that he wanted, and [he’d] start working.

JF: Robert Rauschenberg?

SF: Phenomenally open and free; terribly creative. Bob reflected off of everything he saw or heard. And he never came prepared for what he wanted to do, but knowing in his mind exactly what he wanted. He would move with whatever the atmosphere was.  Bob loved to have people around him when he worked. If he was in the studio, he’d have the TV on watching soaps as long as he could. He probably would ask us to hang around and talk to him while he was working and definitely listened to everybody. Terribly exciting.

 

 

JF: Ellsworth Kelly?

SF: Ellsworth needed privacy. If he were in the art studio, he would close the doors. You’d knock on the door, and he’d certainly let you come in and talk to him. But when he was actually working, he wanted his privacy.

JF: Frank Stella?

SF: Frank Stella, I had a great relationship with him. He’s a great sports fan, and he’s a tennis player. He was the youngest of the New York artists that came out here. He had done a few prints in school and was always excited about the processes.

JF: David Hockney?

SF: He was that British boy. David said he came to the United States and he turned on the TV and saw the Clairol ads, “Blondes have more fun.” So he went to the drug store and bought Clairol, became a blonde, and had more fun. David was something different for me in my life. His fashion fascinated me, and he was very much involved in society, worked very hard in the studio. If you go to David’s house, it’s like a Hockney painting. It’s red and green and blue, and he painted the house, everything about his life is about his life. He just sort of wove it together. Very exciting.

JF: Richard Serra?

SF: When he’s working, he’s like a steam engine; get out of his way. He’s probably 5’8” and he’s like a piece of steel. He’s just really, really, directly, “voom.” I mean that’s the way he works. And he’ll work for an hour or two and then he’ll just stop, and then he’ll just be very nice and ordinary and not so determined, but phenomenally determined when working. Exceptionally bright.

 

 

JF: Vija Celmins?

SF: Vija’s obsessive. If you look at her work, it’s all drawn. There’s no photography. It’s all little lines and marks that she makes. And she can spend three hours or two days with a piece drawing an ocean. She’s phenomenally dedicated to what she’s doing, and she talks about, “I have to learn how to make art easier for me.” And I felt, as the years went by, she probably made it more difficult for herself. She became more obsessive about what she was doing, but those drawings are so great.

JF: Claes Oldenburg?

SF: Claes is lyrical. There’s something about Claes when you look at his hand, the way it moves and the way he draws, it’s just beautiful to watch. And his voice, he talks like that. You know, he’s, I guess all these artists are magical in their own way, but there’s something magical about the way he creates imagery.

JF: Ed Ruscha?

SF: Ed’s cool, Mr. Cool. Phenomenally bright the way he creates imagery.

JF: Man Ray?

SF: He was tiny. You know, he was old when he was here, but I didn’t think of him being so old—he was so youthful. What I remember about Man Ray is that he had to give a talk either at Otis or L.A. County, whatever it was at that time, to the students. And he asked me if I’d drive him there, and he was phenomenal the way he connected to the kids. They just loved talking to him. He was really terrific. Afterwards we had sort of a correspondence. Man Ray lived in Paris then, and so I remember one time I just sent him a post card and just said, “How are you today?” He wrote back a note and said, “I’m alive from the waist up,” and that was it.

JF: Bruce Nauman?

SF: Bruce is great. Fairly quiet person, an athlete; Bruce was a really good basketball player. We’d have basketball games out here every day during the break periods. And Bruce, Frank Stella, Jim Turrell, and Richard Serra, they stood out as the athletes in the group. Bruce is sort of a mystical character and he is really rewarding to work with. He is a very good collaborator. The printers always feel they are part of his project.

JF: John Baldessari?

SF: John is the dean. If you go to a party where there’s a fair amount of young artists, they’ll come to John. It’s like coming to see the guru of your life, and they’re always so appreciative of what he taught them. Maybe what they’re really saying is, “Besides you teaching me art, you taught me about life, you really helped me in my own personal life, making decisions and understanding things.” John is 83 or 84 years old. He works every day. He has a trainer in the morning. He probably gets in his studio by 10 o’clock in the morning and works until 5 or 6 every day. He has five or six dealers who are always saying, “You know, I need more work.” He responds, and he doesn’t seem to ever be flustered.

JF: Do you have any advice for a young collector or young artist?

SF: This may be corny advice, but if it’s a young collector I’d say, look and make your decision slowly; don’t rush into something, but find something you really like. It’s important to ask questions, but I’d say go slowly.

JF: Any great lessons you learned from some of the masters who walked through these doors?

SF: My life changed a lot from being here, and it’s because of the artists. They’re such great people. You go to an art school; there are so many people that can draw a pretty picture. But artists that rise to the top generally are very intelligent. They could have been brain surgeons, or whatever you want to say the comparison would be. They’re all so kind. They’re concerned about humanity and about giving, and helping causes and just really being a better person.

 

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JUSTIN O’SHEA

It was 2009 when Justin O’Shea, who had just quit his job as buying director for the Kuwait-based company Al Ostoura, met Christoph and Susanne Botschen for coffee in London. Through a friend, he had heard the couple was looking for someone to buy for their site, preferably someone from outside of Munich who could bring a fresh perspective and turn the site into a sleek, modernized operation.

In the days leading up to his meeting with the Botschens, acquaintances warned him to tone it down a bit. The couple was conservative, so if O’Shea wanted the job, he should soften his look and maybe try to be more soft-spoken than usual. He did not take the advice. “I thought, they’re not going to like me if I turn up one way and then I’m different the next day,” he says. “I just went how I was: leather jacket, Doc Martens, black jeans, shaved head” (he had no hair at the time). He remembers them looking at him suspiciously when he arrived. “It was kind of like, is this guy going to rob us, or what’s happening?” But then they sat down and spoke for three hours. He and Susanne had compatible ideas about fashion and the possibilities for a digital platform. When he got up to leave, Christoph politely thanked him for his time, said they would be interviewing for the next few months and would be in touch. But Susanne interjected. “I don’t think so,” she said, and asked, “Can you start tomorrow?”

In the years since he began working for mytheresa.com, O’Shea has become something of a fashion icon himself. He describes his personal style as “classic, clean and masculine.” It consists of vests with ties, jeans and dress pants, items that really don’t depend on seasonal trends, even though he’s up on, and sometimes helping to shape, the seasonal trends in the women’s markets for which he buys.

O’Shea fell into fashion almost accidentally. Raised in a tiny town in Australia’s Northern territory, where his mother taught aboriginal children and his father worked in a mine, O’Shea tried going to college, but wasn’t that excited about any one subject or career path. So at 21, he moved to Perth on the Australian West Coast, where he fell in with some new friends, one of whom owned a clothing store at which O’Shea started working. Murray, the man who owned the store, may not have had the fashion savvy that O’Shea has since developed, but he knew what he wanted. “There was never an in-between with Murray,” O’Shea recalls. “That’s probably the best lesson I learned from him. You can deliberate all day but that’s not going to help anyone. You just need to choose.”

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By the time he was 25, he had left Perth, worked briefly in Amsterdam and then landed in London, where he continued to work in the clothing industry. It was the only industry in which he had any experience, and he also found it was one in which no one asked much about his background. “Everything was personal opinion, and I guess, even from the beginning, I had a lot of opinions,” he remembers. “And so I sort of bullshitted my way through it, and people were like ‘you seem to know what you’re talking about even though you’ve got no bloody idea.’ I think that’s what my first boss said.” He moved to the Shoreditch neighborhood, wore all black and worked all the time—he liked that there was no weekend in fashion and that the world was full of colorful personalities.

He had just finished a gig styling the band Snow Patrol when his parents divorced and, because he was the least tied down of his siblings, he moved home to live with his dad, who needed help getting adjusted. For that year, 2008, he worked in the mines, getting up around 4:30 in the morning to start days that could continue until dark. “I thought I would get beaten up on the first day of work,” he recalls, “but all the guys wanted to hear were stories of girls and parties in London.”

Toward the end of his mine-working stint, when his father had learned to make passable meals for himself and acquired a Harley Davidson, O’Shea received a phone call from a man he had met a few times in London who ran Al Ostoura, a high-end group of fashion stores in Kuwait, and wondered if O’Shea would sign on to be his company’s buying director.

So O’Shea moved to Kuwait, although he would spend at least 10 months of the year traveling with just a suitcase, living out of hotels. His first meeting on his new job was with Alberta Ferretti, the Italian designer, only he didn’t yet know who Ferretti was. “There was a lot of that kind of thing,” he recalls. “I had to learn extremely quickly and develop a certain rhythm right away because I didn’t want people thinking, ‘this guy doesn’t know anything.’” He did learn quickly. Buying had two main facets, he discovered. “You have the prediction and gut feeling about what is right and what is wrong,” he explains, “and then you also have the analytic side where you have reports at your fingertips which will show you what has worked and what hasn’t.” You also had to know your clients, which in this case were women in Kuwait who had certain cultural and religious restrictions to how they could dress but still wanted to have their own distinctive looks. O’Shea developed a certain formula to how he bought, and when a line like Balenciaga didn’t have items that fit the formula, he might ask them to make something specifically for his market. Since he couldn’t return something he had custom made, he had to have complete confidence in its salability.

After about a year and half, when he had gotten quite good at the formula, O’Shea became a bit restless. “It was super interesting but the fact is, it was on repeat all of the time,” he says. “I wanted to move back to London and find a job that was more open.” His meeting with the Botschens happened almost immediately after he returned to London, and then began his tenure at MyTheresa.com.

Even if his job is primarily to buy for the site, O’Shea has been involved in the site redesigns and editorial strategizing since the beginning. The site’s aesthetic and content have to be in sync if it’s going to be successful, which it has been. The staff has grown from 20 to about 250, and there are clients in Pakistan, Hong Kong, the U.K. and just about everywhere else. For O’Shea, trends, how they work and how he can be more in tune with his clients have become even more of an obsession over the years. “You can spend a lot of time with the numbers, but then you also have to be thinking outside the clothes about global trends. Art and music and architecture all play a role in fashion trends,” he says, recalling how Valentino’s collection inspired by Dutch master Vermeer coincided with a resurgence in interest in the Dutch masters among institutions and collectors. Then the interest shifted to contemporary artists, and the same people buying art at auction are buying clothes off of runways. “All these trends are colliding and there starts to become more of this umbrella feeling, which really dictates what the year is going to be like.”

Since taking the job, O’Shea has done little else but work for MyTheresa.com. “It’s probably a bit too extreme but it’s so difficult with a digital platform—there’s so much information, there’s so much more you can learn,” he says. “I always think that we can be better.”

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CARY FUKUNAGA

The first time I became aware of Cary Fukunaga was after I saw the “Levi’s America” commercial. It was beautiful, inspiring and nostalgic: Levi’s is an icon, so to see that spirit translated visually was exciting. Since then Fukunaga has only continued to expand and challenge boundaries. To date his credits include the Sundance Film Festival standout Sin Nombre, Jane Eyre and HBO’s True Detective, for which he deservedly took home the Emmy for best director. Needless to say we were excited when he sat down with us to discuss everything from his passion for the game of polo to his upcoming Beasts of No Nation, which sounds incredible.

AM: So where do you think you get your love of film from?

CF: I was raised oftentimes with the television or cinema as sort of a babysitter, if you will. My dad would drop my brother and I off at the cinema and we’d watch every single movie in the cinema before going home, and that’d be our afternoon. So I think I learned a lot about my moral tales and those kind of things from watching movies rather than from reading books, even though I did read a lot as well as a kid. But from a very young age I kind of used to fantasize about my own stories—always in a visual manner. Like, whether it be landscapes that I saw, or places around—I kind of imagined the stories taking place within them and wanted to organize my friends to make movies. But of course, you know, kids are flaky. It’s hard to get them to commit.

AM: What were the movies you were trying to make?

CF: I mean, there were so many. There wasn’t just one. I wrote my first feature screenplay when I was 14. It was like a long short film, it was like a 60-something-page screenplay.

I learned how to type while doing it too. It was about two brothers who fought in the Civil War. I was obsessed with the Civil War then.

When I was in high school I found a group of friends who used to make little comedy skits on video, and that was a lot of fun. That was what we did after school every day, we just made little videos. Then I wanted to take it a little further and make comprehensive stories and again ran into difficulty getting people to commit—so I kind of gave up making movies for a while. Just focused on school and other parts of life. Chasing girls and stuff. And then my senior year in college, I did a film project again just for the hell of it and made my first short film. Then I was hooked and decided I was going to try and make movies. That was it.

AM: What do you love about filmmaking? What’s the most enjoyable aspect of the filmmaking process for you?

CF: It’s hard to say now because I find so much of the filmmaking process actually not enjoyable.

AM: Is it because it became your work?

CF: I think it’s partially because it became my work but also because the projects are just so difficult. And sometimes the struggle feels like it’s not worth it. You spend years of your life disappearing from your friends and family to go make movies and you come back and everyone’s life has moved forward, and all you’ve done is make a new movie.

So it’s hard to say what the most enjoyable thing is anymore. I mean, I could make stuff up.

AM: No, you don’t have to do that.

CF: What would be or what should be fun or what I know under the surface is actually fun. But right now, after having done these two really exhausting projects, my feelings about cinema are very different.

AM: Are you taking a break right now?

CF: Yeah. Maybe after this month I get a break but maybe not. I don’t know. We’ll see.

AM: During the time you were having movies as a babysitter, is there any movie that had a really large impact on you?

CF: You know, very early on I was really interested in sort of more adult movies. I remember seeing Never Cry Wolf and The Last Emperor at a pretty young age. Bertolucci’s Last Emperor. I just really kind of liked being taken with the scale of stories and cinematography especially. And when I watched Empire of the Sun, I was nearly the same age as Christian Bale when that movie came out.

I was obsessed with the air force. I wanted to become a pilot, so I identified a lot with the characters. That was also the age when I really started paying attention to how the movies were made. Not critiquing but observing and the process and the shots and the construction of it all. And for a while it sort of ruined my experience of cinema, because it made me look at it with a critical mind instead of just being taken away.

But I can’t remember any one particular movie that, you know, struck me. Not necessarily one.

AM: Is there anything you do to prepare yourself before starting a project?

CF: I do a lot of research for the writing on the direction side of things, just to make sure that I know exactly what it is I’m trying to create. And once we get into pre-production, which is the planning part of the film, I spend a lot of time on location scouting.

There are people that come from different philosophies on this and people who think for a movie, it doesn’t matter what the location is if the characters in the story are strong, but for me the location always plays a very big part.

 

 

AM: What are some of your favorite places to shoot?

CF: I am not sure I have a favorite place. They’re all so different. I did like shooting in the UK. It was a lot of fun to shoot there. But I’ve shot everywhere. I’ve shot in Africa, I’ve shot in the Caribbean, I’ve shot in the Arctic, I’ve shot in Mexico and Central America and different parts of the United States. And they are all so different. I think part of the joy of shooting is the exploration. One of the things that I like most about location scouting is the people you meet. You go into people’s homes and their properties. And what happens is that you end up having these conversations with people that you would never have otherwise. It’s really refreshing and sometimes you meet just really fascinating people, but you also hear some pretty sad stories too. Maybe they have medical bills they are trying to pay or some other issue they’re dealing with and they’re going to lose their home. Sometimes you are forced to see just how desperate so much of the world is, it’s kind of frightening. But you also get to see some really interesting things and meet some really amazing people too.

AM: Sounds like a real adventure.

CF: Sometimes it feels that way. In Africa we were trailblazing. We’d pull up on the side of the road and I’d want to get to some edge of a cliff. We’d pull out our machetes and just start cutting trail through the jungle.

AM: Sounds fun.

CF: We have fun sometimes.

AM: Do you have any books or records or anything that puts you into the mode of inspiration?

CF: I don’t have a good mantra yet for my work. It’s almost like the most difficult thing, especially for me, in writing is getting to that zone. First couple weeks are painful if nothing’s happening and then eventually I get into a very focused place, you know, without the aid of pharmaceuticals. I’ve always tried coming from a very pure place. I’ve never let anything but my own discipline get me to the point of concentration. But I am open to the idea of some sort of meditation or mantra to get me to a creative space.

AM: Do you reference other films for a project? If so, what were they for True Detective?

CF: You know, I usually don’t reference films as much as I reference photographs. A photographer named Misrach was a big influence. Richard Misrach. He had this thing called the Petrochemical Highway, which was really fascinating to me and was a very big influence on what we did. My cinematographer Adam Arkapaw and I started talking about it. We spent some time trying to figure out the right look. A lot of the crime dramas go for the sort of cold, blue feel. That edgy sort of look, but that was not what we wanted to go with. We liked what the Coen brothers did in No Country for Old Men. But we also liked the sort of moody investigation [feel] David Fincher did with Zodiac. We kind of did a mixture of Zodiac and No Country for Old Men. But I think Misrach’s photographs are really interesting, sort of a mix between both those worlds. It has the movie-ness of Fincher as well as his mastery of imagery—I mean Fincher, there’s no one like Fincher in terms of mise en scène and movement of camera. I think he’s taken the ropes from Scorsese and gone further with it, you know. Torch I should say, not ropes. But you know, the Coen brothers are so idiosyncratic as well, and their work and everything is consistent throughout, even though it’s all so different. I’m sure [cinematographer] Roger Deakins plays a big part in that, but they’re the ones that board everything in; they create the sequences.

AM: Create the world …

CF: Those were definitely influences.

AM: How did True Detective come together?

CF: My manager brought it up to me. It was a project that he had with Nic Pizzolatto the writer. And then I came on board as director. Then we got the cast involved. It happened pretty quickly.

AM: Was this your first TV show?

CF: Yeah.

AM: Did you like it?

CF: Did I like it— what do you mean?

AM: You know, compared to films. I’m sure it’s very different.

CF: Yeah, it’s different. But it’s also not that different. The construction of it is exactly the same.

AM: Did you feel different after winning an Emmy?

CF: No. [laughs] That stuff doesn’t matter to me. The Emmy went quickly into a closet and that’s about it.

AM: [laughs] Oh. How do you spend your downtime?

CF: I don’t really have much downtime. I work a lot. I mean, when I’m on my weekends or something, with friends, New York City has a lot of distractions. I play polo, but that season’s over now.

AM: Is there anything you do to relax?

CF: I think polo is pretty calming for me. When you’re on the horse and you’re doing your thing you forget about your everyday work and you’re just—you’re focused on the game.

AM: Where do you play polo in New York?

CF: Upstate. Can you ride a horse?

AM: I have, here and there, but I don’t. It’s not that hard to ride a horse… right?

CF: You’re not walking around on a pony. You’re running hard. [laughs] You’re galloping across the field and you’re turning and going the other way.

AM: I really need to come see this. Do you have any exciting projects on the horizon?

CF: I’m working on two scripts right now that will hopefully be done around the new year—

AM: You’re working on them simultaneously?

CF: I have about 12 projects in development. I have a lot of projects at different stages of development, some will be ready in the next year or so and some of them won’t be ready for years. But I wouldn’t be doing any of them if I wasn’t excited by them. It’s more just a question of which becomes real first. And to be completely honest, until I finish this little monster, Beasts of No Nation, it’s difficult to even guess.

AM: Beasts of No Nation?

CF: It’s the film I’m just finishing. It takes place in Africa. That should’ve been the first question you asked.

AM: Am I failing at the interview? [laughs]

CF: I assumed you knew about it. It’ll be done sometime in the new year and then hopefully I’ll take it to festivals later on, but it was a very difficult movie to make.

AM: How long have you been working on this project? CF: Eight years.

AM: How would you describe this project to someone who doesn’t know about it?

CF: Ugh, I hate those questions. [laughs]

AM: [laughs] Well, now that we’ve talked about it and opened the door, readers are going to want to know what it is.

CF: Well, it’s a Nigerian novel, written by a Nigerian about 10 years ago. It’s about a boy from a good family who was swept into a war—a civil war is taking place in his country. And it’s his philosophical and moral journey through becoming a killer—and then out. I don’t want to call it a child soldier story because it’s not an issue movie at all; it’s not about the issue of child soldiers by any means. It’s just about a boy. It’s a coming of age story, but in a very obviously extreme way.

AM: Do the projects that you’re working on influence you in your personal life? Your mood, how you feel every day?

CF: Yeah, I don’t think you’re doing your job unless it does do that.

 

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HUMANITY DINNER WITH ISAMAYA FFRENCH

i-D Magazine Beauty Editor Isamaya Ffrench and Citizens of Humanity kick started London Fashion Week with an intimate dinner at Bistrotheque to celebrate Issue N06 of HUMANITY Magazine. Isamaya, who is featured in the latest issue, hosted the exclusive evening with a mix of young designers, musicians, artists, top stylists and editors from fellow inspirational publications.

 

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