FRANCESCO CLEMENTE

Francesco Clemente is stark and intimidating, not unlike his artwork. He speaks carefully and briefly, without a sign of chattiness or informality. Clemente’s wide-ranging works of the 1980s, often centering on stark, confrontational representations of the human body, defied much of the abstraction in favor for the previous decade. His painted imagery could simultaneously evoke sexuality and religious allegory, with portrait subjects staring the viewer squarely in the face. Born in Naples in 1952, Clemente moved to Rome in 1970 to study architecture at the University of Rome. He soon began to work as a visual artist, and at age 24, he met his future wife, Alba Primiceri. The couple soon had the first of their four children and moved to India. By the beginning of the 1980s, the couple and their children were in New York City, but Clemente returned frequently to India, completing his 24-work 1981 series “Francesco Clemente Pinxit” in collaboration with Indian artists trained in miniature painting.

In New York he became an art star, collaborating with the young Jean-Michel Basquiat and the older Andy Warhol. Clemente also created works in collaboration with or to accompany the works of poets Gregory Corso, Allen Ginsberg and Robert Creeley. Along with Alba, who was a frequent muse to and portrait subject of many of their renowned artist friends from Basquiat to Alex Katz, he would spend evenings at the great New York nightclubs of the 1980s: Danceteria, the Palladium and the Paradise Garage. Clemente never ceased traveling, however. He maintained homes and studios not only in New York but also in Rome; Taos, New Mexico; and Chennai, India. Today he and Alba live in a Greenwich Village home that belonged to Bob Dylan in the 1970s, and he maintains studios in Manhattan and Brooklyn. It is India, though, that has perhaps been the center of his creative energy for the longest. Having long collaborated with Indian craftspeople in connection with his art, Clemente continues to work alongside them in his most recent series of tents, which are sized to hold dozens of people standing within them and are densely painted and printed both inside and out. Evoking nomadic cultures around the world, the tents are made in India, each taking a year for Clemente and a team of Rajasthani woodblock-printing artists to create. They’re a spot-on metaphor for Clemente himself, the nomadic artist, ever wary of easy categorization, to set up an identity he can take down and take away anytime he chooses.

New York City’s Rubin Museum will present a show of 20 of Clemente’s India-inspired works in September of this year, and Mary Boone Gallery will present two new tents in November.

What was your childhood like in Italy?

I grew up in Naples, a city somehow broken but full of wit and cultural arrogance. My parents had modest means but managed every summer to travel by car to a different European country. By the time I was 12 they had taken me to see every monument or museum in Europe they could think of.

You briefly studied architecture in 1970. How did you end up becoming a painter?

The faculty of architecture in Rome was then the hotbed of anti-capitalist and anti-imperialist activism in Italy. There was much violence and turmoil and, to my eyes, opportunism. In an early catalog of my work I remember writing: “I am looking for a territory without enemies.”

What compelled you to want to share your thoughts and ideas through art?

I had an exaggerated awareness, from an early age, of the dynamics of power. All knowledge appeared to me a tool for domination and exploitation and hence a lie. I didn’t want to be part of the lie. To become an artist was the way out.

How did you come to collaborate with Basquiat and Warhol?

Bruno Bischofberger, who at the time was one of the few who had respect for both Warhol and Basquiat, suggested we make some works together. This was easily done. Our studios were close to each other. We were close, too. Warhol’s Interview magazine had covered my work only a month after my arrival to New York. Basquiat and I had common literary likes, particularly the Beat poets.

What was it about their work that you made a connection to?

I relate more easily to “big” art. By big I mean art that crosses its cultural context and aspires to express a worldview. Both Warhol and Basquiat, in different ways, shared this aspiration.

You have also worked with many poets. How has that medium inspired yours?

Yes, to use the words of John Wieners, I pray every morning, saying: “Poetry visit this house often.” Ginsberg, Creeley, Wieners continue to inspire me, not just with their words but also with their character.

When did you first travel to India and what sparked that desire?

The same motive forced me to become an artist and to travel to India. I was discontent with the boundaries of Western culture, the culture of want, of “I” and “mine,” a culture that claims to have defeated poverty, whereas it has made poor even the rich.

How did Indian culture begin to influence your work from that point on?

In India I learned my favorite prayer. It goes like this: Oh Lord protect this body, protect this mind, protect this intellect, protect this ego [three times]. I am not this body, I am not this mind, I am not this intellect, I am not this ego [three times].

 

Francesco Clemente SI #1

 

Francesco Clemente SI #2

 

How does your work relate to the artistic practices and traditions of various regions in India?

I am attracted to cultural contamination, to inclusive views, to rituals, to handmade things, to anonymity, to anything that looks worn by time, to anything that has a feel of poverty and nobility at the same time. I encounter many of these qualities as I roam across India.

In contrast to the conceptual art practices of the 1970s, why did you choose instead to include representation, narrative and the figure in your work?

I did not choose. I made room for a work to happen. The work manifested itself this way. Sociological concerns just don’t seem so important if you begin to listen to the troubling noises of mind and body. “Ready-made,” “appropriation” are excellent tools if you want to show what art is. I am more interested to show why art is; hence I paint and draw.

You have explored a variety of more traditional, artisanal materials and modes of working. Can you please share how that evolved for you and what those processes and materials are in your artwork?

The work mimics the fragmented state of the world. It mimics a world in flux, where the only constant is “the continuity of discontinuity.” Not only do my mediums change all the time but also the supporting surfaces of my paintings are never the same for long. By doing this I chase the ever-changing nature of our perception and aim at stripping it naked of conventional truths.

In 2013, you had an exhibition of tents, something different from your usual exhibitions of paintings. How did this come about?

I had spent time in China, and from China the world appears bigger than ever. I felt challenged to make larger, more public paintings, but I didn’t want to lose softness, vulnerability and sensuality of touch. These are the tents—they are enormous paintings you can touch, smell, sleep in.

The tents are all hand-painted, inside and out. How does that influence the experience the viewer has, even though they are inside a gallery setting?

The beautiful thing about handmade things is that they always make room for something unexpected to happen. In this case I had not anticipated that the painted walls of the tents were going to be viewed in a dim light, the same light of ancient churches or primordial caves.

How do you unite your Western aesthetics with your interests in Eastern mysticism and spiritualism?

All these divisions, East and West, North and South, are an invention of imperialist and consumerist politics. If you want to invade a place with your armies or with your products you have to make everyone believe that the place is different than your own and that it is an empty place. To the eye of the poets and the artists I admire there is no East or West, there is only a suffering mind or an awakened mind.

How do you use symbolism in your work? Why is it part of your artistic language to use symbols?

The loss of the sense of the sacred and the loss of a symbolic language is at the root of the ecological catastrophe we witness today. Rational thinking is not enough to defend the mind from itself. War, genocide and the destruction of the earth are conceived of “rationally.” They are the sum of “rational” decisions.

 

 

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GÉRALDINE SAGLIO

It’s been 10 years since Saglio landed a plum internship at Vogue Paris and worked her way up the editorial ladder to the distinguished rank of the title’s fashion editor, where she remains today, curating a vision of style under the industry’s watchful eye.

Despite her sixth sense for fashion (she’s regularly snapped by street-style bloggers for her cool Parisian-girl vibe), Saglio didn’t always envision herself immersed in a world of runway shows and photo shoots. “I first started studying economics,” explains the native Parisian—who continues to live today in the same arrondissement in which she grew up. But Saglio quickly got bored and within two years made the leap to fashion school, enrolling in ESMOD, alma mater to the likes of designers Thierry Mugler and Olivier Rousteing and Marie Claire creative director Nina Garcia. “It was interesting because they offered many internships in the industry, and it allowed me to have various short experiences in press departments, commercial departments and marketing,” notes Saglio, whose final internship was a six month stint at Vogue Paris. “I loved everything there,” she says. And the rest is magazine history.

Like most budding fashion editors, Saglio paid her dues performing tasks such as clothing returns, eventually earning herself a coveted spot as the second assistant to then editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld (who departed for new editorial pastures in 2011). But a chance to help on a photo shoot in Los Angeles afforded Saglio the opportunity to work for 10 days with then fashion director (and current editor-in-chief) Emmanuelle Alt. From then on, Saglio cut her teeth as Alt’s main assistant, working for five years before earning her stripes and current title of fashion editor. And lest anyone think a fashion assistant’s job doesn’t have some humorous moments, think again: “I had just started working as Emmanuelle’s assistant; I barely knew her and we were not yet on familiar terms,” explains Saglio. “We were shooting in the Seychelles and the first night, while I was fast asleep, she came knocking on my door at 3 a.m. I mean, she was my boss, not my friend, but she asked to sleep with me because there was this terrifying insect in her room!”

It’s no surprise that this editor, whose expertly trained eye is responsible for landing of-the-moment designers on the pages of one of the world’s most respected fashion magazines, has her own, seemingly effortless style down pat. Saglio likes to rock a self described “classic, masculine” style and identifies an old Isabel Marant sweatshirt, a vintage Saint Laurent smocking and a pair of black jeans as favorite pieces in her own well-edited closet. “I have always been obsessed with Saint Laurent and his smocking,” says Saglio, who counts Jane Birkin and Betty Catroux among her personal style icons and currently has her eye on designers Anthony Vaccarello, Fausto Puglisi and Christophe Lemaire.

So next time you’re lusting over looks in Vogue Paris, you know who to thank.

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JOHN WARD

Tucked back on an old road in the Pacific Palisades, fashion designer, husband and father John Ward lives amongst the eucalyptus trees and brush of the Southern California canyon. The success of his first line, Three Dots, a quality T-shirt company that offered a variety of men’s sizes when everything was only one size fits all, launched his career. His learning curve widened, though, with his next brand, Maggie Ward, an ambitious project that eventually put him out of business due to the new challenges of creating a whole line and the backlash of the recession. But with any experience comes gems of wisdom. “One element of that line,” Ward recalls, “that always met with a lot of success is these leggings that I did with really beautiful Italian Ponte. It always sold well in the stores. Year after year, people would ask me for those leggings. So I talked to somebody who was interested in partnering up and starting a new line based on the leggings. That fell through. Gary Freedman, my lawyer for a long time, drew up some plans for me. When I told him it fell through, he said, ‘Well, it’s a good concept—why don’t you talk to Citizens about it?’ I threw together some sweatshirts to go with the leggings, made out of this artisanal Japanese fleece. It’s really very simple shapes, but beautiful fabrics. I showed it to everybody at Citizens and they loved it.”

Born from this huge setback in his life, Ward launched the new line, Getting Back to Square One, in 2013 with Citizens of Humanity, and the response was encouraging. They sold to approximately 60 stores and received several reorders. Ward’s penchant for details and quality fabric are key to the brand. The factories he works with in Italy use innovative treatments to create amazing Ponte, essentially a type of double-knit fabric. Ward explains: “The quality of the Pontes are incredible. People get them and wear them and just are amazed how much they hold up. They don’t stretch out. They’re indestructible. It’s almost like an investment that’s going to last, which is, in today’s world, almost a novel idea, that you’re going to buy a piece of clothing that’s going to hold up.”

Though leggings make sense in climates other than Los Angeles, they are practical and there’s been quite a revolution of how women dress on a daily basis. It’s common to see women wearing yoga pants to run errands, so leggings are a smart bet for the market. “It’s practical to get in and out of the cab with leggings. It’s a practical thing to throw a sweater over. It’s practical indoors and out. It’s great to travel with. It’s easy to just throw in a suitcase without worrying about getting wrinkled. It’s an easy, versatile piece of clothing. It’s something, if you put the right things together, you look put together, rather than sloppy. Especially when you want to do something quickly … I think women are feeling more secure about wearing tight things on the bottom, period. It’s sort of an easy jump for this. Also, I think there are a lot of cheap leggings out there on the market. People don’t want to look trashy, so the idea of a premium legging is appealing. It doesn’t have to be so fashion-based. It’s a fundamental part of what you need from day to day,” Ward shares.

Not one to underestimate chance, the opportunity to create a line with Citizens has helped relaunch Ward with a line that can’t be taken for granted. Ultimately, the idea of his product is embracing a real great quality of fabric, something he has always championed.

In his words, “Getting back to square one simply means getting back to something that you really know how to do well and taking that approach.”

 

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BRETT GORVY

The week before a big sale, Brett Gorvy has a ritual. “I get up very early in the morning, before the day begins,” says the Chair of the Post-War and Contemporary Art Department at Christie’s, the auction house that has been in business since 1766. He heads straight to Christie’s New York City headquarters on Avenue of the Americas and goes to the salesroom as soon as he arrives. There, the art soon to be auctioned has been installed in an exhibition that probably won’t stay up for more than a week. “I spend time enjoying it, all the work.”

Gorvy, who has made Art Review’s annual Power 100 list for the past decade, has been the sole head of the department since 2011, a year before Post-War and Contemporary surpassed Impressionism as the auction house’s most lucrative category. Before that, he headed up the department collaboratively with chic, photogenic Amy Cappellazzo, known for saying quippy things like “so much for the weak dollar” after a significant sale. She moved on to development before leaving the auction house to pursue other projects in 2013. When Gorvy officially took the helm, Steven Murphy, Christie’s CEO, cited his “museum-quality presentation of the sale previews” as evidence of his aptitude for his job.

So Gorvy has organized, and thus seen, quite a few of these salesroom shows over the years, many featuring staggeringly valuable artwork by icons: Warhol’s silkscreen, “Statue of Liberty,” in 2012, or Lucian Freud’s “Benefits Supervisor Sleeping,” a gritty painting of a fleshy, nude woman on a couch that sold for $33.6 million in 2008, when Gorvy and Cappellazzo still worked as a team. Sometimes, though, it can be hard to feel excitement when you’ve been immersed in the logistics of transporting work, inspecting it, installing it and assembling catalogues. You could feasibly enter a salesroom that includes, say, Jackson Pollock’s “Number 19,” a painting that spent 10 years out of public view before selling at Christie’s in May 2013, and feel little to no awe. But Gorvy felt awe one morning last autumn when he arrived to spend time with the art set to sell on November 12, 2013.

“I’d never seen a room wall-to-wall look as good,” he recalls. “It’s rare that it happens that way—by the time you get to the sale, it’s inevitable that you have these ups and downs. What defined it for me was that ultimately every movement was represented—the ’80s, the ’90s.” He saw Christopher Wool’s “Apocalypse Now,” a black-on-white text piece that announced in all caps, “SELL EVERYTHING, SELL THE HOUSE, SELL THE CAR, SELL THE KIDS.” He saw a Jackson Pollock painting and the perfectly polished, shining orange, towering balloon dog by Jeff Koons. Then there was Francis Bacon’s “Three Studies of Lucian Freud,” a loose trio of portraits of Freud, also a painter and grandson of the original psychoanalyst. Each six and half feet tall, the three paintings have a yellow-orange and pea-green background, and a strange, fragmented frame near the center. Inside of that frame, on a wooden chair, sits a man—Freud—with one leg crossed over the other. His face, all bulges of gray and pink, is distorted like faces always are in Bacon’s work. “MoMA doesn’t have a Bacon of this caliber,” says Gorvy. He remembers thinking, “I’ve got a sale the people should see. Auction history will be made.”

Gorvy had already intended to send out a standard email later that day, pitching the show and sale to colleagues. “I decided I’m just going to dictate,” he recalls, and tried to convey his enthusiasm spontaneously while an assistant transcribed. The resulting memo would be picked apart on New York Magazine’s Vulture blog and posted in full on the art news source GalleristNY. (“Folks, there is effusiveness, and then there is Brett Gorvy,” read the Gallerist intro.) In subsequent weeks, its tone would also be mimicked by other auction houses.

“I am rendered rather speechless by the works,” the memo began. It continued: “In my heart, I believe the results this week will be extraordinary.” They were. The Francis Bacon triptych sold for $142.4 million, making it the most expensive painting ever sold at auction, outstripping Edvard Munch’s “The Scream,” sold by Sotheby’s for $120 million in 2012. “A historic moment,” the auctioneer actually said while bidding was still under way the night of the auction. People cheered when it sold. Jeff Koons’ “Balloon Dog” also set the record for an artwork by a living artist—noteworthy, but also no longer unexpected, seeing as Christie’s has set records in Post-War and Contemporary sales each year since 2010.

“We have barely had five days to enjoy this kind of caliber and beauty,” Gorvy’s memo also said. “Each season I wonder if we can do this again.” And then they do.

Gorvy speaks on the record about sales results, market trends and specific artworks frequently. It’s rarer for him to talk about his personal tastes or routine, though he and his wife, art dealer Amy Gold, did give Architectural Digest a tour of their apartment late in 2013, showing off an art collection that includes rare photographs documenting work by visceral feminist artist Ana Mendieta and a drawing by 1960s jack-of-all-trades Bruce Conner. Gorvy’s relative quietness regarding anything other than work may have to do with a natural desire for privacy but probably more with sheer busyness. He is in airports constantly, out of the country as often as in.

Born in South Africa to British parents, he spent the first part of his childhood in Johannesburg, then moved to London in the mid-1970s, when his father, financier Manfred Gorvy, relocated for work. Manfred would soon found the highly successful real estate and development company Hanover Acceptances Limited, and he and his wife, Lydia, collected art, so Gorvy and his three siblings grew up around it.

As a student, Gorvy studied art history and began a career as an art journalist in London in the late 1980s. He was still happy reporting on the art world when a friend of his, who worked at Christie’s longtime competitor, Sotheby’s, offered him a job. He turned it down. But in 1994, that same friend had accepted a new position at Christie’s. “He offered me the job again,” says Gorvy, who accepted this time, ready for a change. “I’ve been rather lucky,” he adds.

Before he began at Christie’s, even though he knew art well, actual, iconic paintings and sculptures seemed distant to him, certainly not like things you could get close enough to touch. This quickly changed. He remembers an early experience he had at the auction house. “I went into a warehouse and, on the table, there was a small copper Modigliani out of its frame,” he says.

He picked up the piece by the Italian painter, a prolific, stylish Bohemian who once criticized Picasso for being “uncouth.” “I felt the weight of the copper in my hand. You’re so close to the art—you’re seeing it naked.”

When Gorvy first started at Christie’s in 1994, the art market, like many markets, had been struggling. Art sales had boomed in the 1980s. Interest in young talent had grown as new money proliferated on Wall Street and the Japanese yen gained strength. Investors started to see art as a speculative asset, something you could buy for relatively little and then ideally resell for much more. Young graffiti artist Jean-Michel Basquiat became an overnight sensation, posing for the Newsweek feature “New Art, New Money: The Marketing of an American Artist” in 1985, at just 25 years old. Basquiat would tragically be dead of an overdose before prices plummeted in 1990, as the early ’90s economic recession began three years after the jarring 1987 stock market crash. Work by artists like Eric Fischl and Julian Schnabel, newly and excessively popular in the 1980s, and even work by Warhol would fail to find buyers. Gradually, though, over the next decade the market would build itself up to record sales levels, becoming more global and withstanding the dot-com crash. “I grew up basically as the market changed,” Gorvy says.

In 2003, the year he and Cappellazzo first made it onto the Power 100 list, they sold a Basquiat painting for more than $600,000, nearly $150,000 above the estimate but far less than what a painting like that would go for today—Christie’s sold Basquiat’s “Dustheads” for $48.8 million in the summer of 2013. After 2008, during the recession, the market dropped around 30 percent, but then Cappellazzo and Gorvy had auction sales up by over 100 percent by the autumn of 2010. Dubai and Hong Kong were growing markets. Now, it’s commonplace to see headlines like the one Art in America published in 2012: “Biggest Contemporary Art Auction at Christie’s New York, Again.” That time, the sale featured Basquiat, abstract expressionist Franz Kline and everpresent contemporary powerhouse Jeff Koons.

One explanation for this seemingly continuous growth is the new international vastness of the market. “You feel the Russians, you feel the Middle East,” says Gorvy, who values “being able to reach out and have that global connection.” But he dismisses the idea that breathtakingly big sales at Christie’s represent a mismatch between the money and the actual cultural value of the art. Collectors aren’t buying with their ears, based on what they’ve heard is hot, at least not the collectors who matter. “Every market has its great period,” he says. “In reality it’s not about the record making. It’s more about a passionate pursuit.”

Before a sale, when collectors can’t decide whether they want to buy, he tells them to imagine themselves waking up the next morning and not having that work of art. Would they kick themselves? “My wife and I collect,” he explains. “I know what it feels like. Most people want to own art because they want to live with it.” And these are smart people, Gorvy has said when interviewed elsewhere; they made their money doing something they’re good at and know what they like.

Throughout the years, Gorvy has held conversations in salesrooms with art historians, like the 2008 interview he conducted with Dr. David Anfam about abstract expressionism, or commissioned respected writers for catalogue essays, like novelist Jonathan Lethem, who recently wrote about Warhol. But the intellectual part is never the most important. “My job really is to make sure every work looks its best. It’s all an instinctive thing that hits you in the gut,” he says of collecting. It’s a revelation, to encounter new works, even by artists who have already made it into history. “You think you know an artist and then you see a new painting. You come face to face with an amazing object.”

“It doesn’t feel like work. You get on the plane—meet with someone who lives with art.” He’s in an airport as he says this, about to fly to Europe to meet with a collector who’s been living with paintings Christie’s briefly had under its roof. This part of the job never fails to excite him. “You’re humbled, frankly, by the art.”

 

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STEVE VAN DOREN

It never rains in Southern California, and there are always a pair of Vans on someone’s feet. It sounds like a long-winded folk song by a sun-kissed guitar strummer on the Venice Boardwalk, but it’s really an ethos that embodies the spirit of those who call the Left Coast home. Much like the temperature here that rarely fluctuates, so too stands the resiliency of the steadfast and legendary shoe company that was founded by Paul Van Doren back in 1966. Having transcended the realm of footwear to become a cultural icon, the company has inevitably had to change to accommodate the modern world. But there are certain aspects of Vans that remain as recognizable as the Hollywood sign. The main thing? The Sidestripe.

To understand the staying power of one of the most distinctive contrasting elements in all of footwear is to know the history of the brand. The original intentions of Paul Van Doren, his brother Jim Van Doren and longtime friend Gordon Lee were to right the sinking ship of a factory in Gardenvale, California, that was owned at the time by Randy’s—a Boston-based shoe manufacturer best known for outfitting Boston Celtics legend Bob Cousy. In just eight short months, the fledgling factory was doing better than its eastern cousin. Thus, on March 16, 1966, at 704 E. Broadway in Anaheim, the partners opened up the first store of their own. At that point, there were only three companies manufacturing vulcanized footwear in the U.S.—Randy’s, Keds and Converse.

Steve Van Doren, son of Paul, remains an integral part of the operation despite the company’s sale to the banking firm McCown De Leeuw & Co. back in 1988. His passion for Vans is hard to ignore, and his knowledge of the inner workings of the brand makes him a footwear encyclopedia of sorts. And for him, it all starts with the Sidestripe—which debuted in 1977 on a new sneaker identified then simply as “Style 36.” (It’s now known as the Old Skool.) “The Sidestripe is a wavy line beginning in the front of the shoe below the eyestay lace area and ending at the  back counter area of the shoe. It followed the stitch line of the padded color of the Style 36,” explains Van Doren. “The navy suede and the light blue canvas was an excellent-looking shoe. I was really excited when it first came out, because it was more durable. Also, before that we did not have our own identifying design, and this was it! My father wanted to create a unique design that would identify the shoes as Vans. He always had a pencil in his hand and was always drawing or doodling simple sketches on a notepad.”

While Vans maintain a certain “relaxed” connotation thanks to their Southern California roots, as well as the earliest customers who flocked to the company, the Sidestripe’s origins are similar to those of other sneaker imprints. “You can see it from far away, [and it] stands out from all other shoes,” says Van Doren. “Skateboarding shoes back in the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s all looked the same, but if an athlete wore an Old Skool or Sk8-Hi you could spot it right away.” Brand recognition from afar is what footwear is all about.

One could argue that Stacy Peralta did for Vans and skateboarding what Michael Jordan did for basketball and Nike. Simply put, he became a role model for kids to emulate. “Stacy Peralta was the very first skateboarder to wear Vans,” says Van Doren. “From there, every skateboarder wore them, and then we came out with the high-top version, the Style 38, and the Sk8-Hi with a similar Sidestripe. Every well-known skater in the world wore one or the other during the ’80s and ’90s. If you were to watch the movie Bones Brigade, you would see every rider donning the Sidestripe.” From there, Vans and their signature design would go on to permeate other facets of youth lifestyle. “BMX riders immediately took on the Old Skool’s added benefits of padded materials and unique customization options,” adds Van Doren. “Today, I see a lot of musicians, artists, sneaker fans and car and motorcycle enthusiasts making the Old Skool their own.”

Very rarely does a brand get to keep its counterculture placard while at the same time enjoying fiscal and critical success. Yet Vans continue to carry an underground appeal that allows wearers to feel there’s a universal connection among them. “I would say Vans fans are expressing their individuality and personal style,” Van Doren says. “They like their product to be different, and Vans allows them that individuality and offers a heritage of good-quality products. The Sidestripe has represented authentic Vans branding for over 37 years.”

With nearly 50 years of success under their belt, there’s an anecdote— that just so happens to be true—that illustrates perfectly why Vans continue to be as beloved now as they were back in 1966. As the story goes, the first people to own Vans were each given a pair on an “honor system” of sorts, after Paul Van Doren and his associates had “forgotten to maintain a cash reserve to provide change to their customers.” “All 16 did come back,” says Van Doren. “15 of them by the next day, and the last was [paid for] by a lady a week later when she came home from a trip. It basically comes down to the trust and passion that is the foundation of our brand. My dad and his partners were trying to start a business [where] you put trust in your workers and customers. The company guaranteed its products because we trusted we made great shoes. The customer, by using our product, put trust that the American-made product they saw was good quality. People believing in other people is a very valuable idea. We had to prove we made great shoes, and counted on our customers to help tell our story to their friends. On the wall of our stores, we had a sign 8 feet long that said ‘Tell A Friend.’ From the first day the founders believed that our customers were our Number 1 focus, and we needed them to believe in our brand.”

 

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BERBERJIN

Vintage retail boutiques may seem a dime a dozen, but quality vintage is still hard to find. Things aren’t made like they used to be, and while many boutiques boast wide selection, the garments may not be stellar vintage, one-of-a-kind pieces: something old, well made and classic in character and style. It takes a very special eye to find these pieces. In Tokyo, though, there is a place that has a global reputation in the vintage scene. That place is BerBerJin.

Yutaka Fujihara became interested in vintage clothing in high school and aspired to work in the fashion industry from then on. The devoted denim lover’s early affair with Levi’s, Lee and Ralph Lauren played a part in inspiring his dream. In 1996, he opened BerBerJin with his vice president, Mr. Furutachi, and now he travels the world sourcing the perfect pieces for his stores in Shibuya and Harajuku. Fujihara loves shopping in Los Angeles and references Melrose Avenue for having one of his favorite vintage stores. “I think people desire to own the beauty of ‘one of a kind’ like vintage clothing,” he says. His rules for vintage are: the year it was made, the label and the rarity. He likes pieces that have a good vintage feel, but he mostly relies on what catches his eye.

It’s his love affair with denim that has ultimately made BerBerJin exceptional. The passion has also developed into an unprecedented personal book project with Levi’s. With the company’s blessing, Fujihara is creating a photography book on the amazing Levi’s 501 collection found in Japan. “I love the history of denim, and simply the feel of denim and the shade of indigo colors,” he says. BerBerJin’s success is also attributed to the quality and quantity of dead stock vintage items they carry, how fast their items rotate and how much they care for each of their customers.

To find clothes with a certain fit is part of the vintage anomaly. Clothing is not tailored like the good ol’ days either. There is so much bulk manufacturing in the clothing industry, it’s hard to find something perfect, something special. A trip to BerBerJin is like going back in time, digging in a treasure chest of wonder.

 

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COLLEEN ATWOOD

I was introduced to COLLEEN ATWOOD 15 years ago. As someone who works “in costume,” I was of course curious how Colleen produced such interesting designs. Expecting a serious type of person, I walked into her office and she was on the floor, doing a yoga handstand against the wall, and shook my hand upside down. That’s kind of how I always think of Colleen—looking at things from a different angle. 

Our personalities clicked, and I have been lucky enough to be able to work with her almost exclusively for quite some time. We both come from small towns, me from Texas and Colleen from Washington state; I think we are similarly able to be open to new ideas and experiences, as curious people are when they have outgrown their surroundings. That open-mindedness is the main thing we have in common, both in our working relationship and, over time, what has become a great friendship.

When Colleen and I are working, we spend enormous amounts of time in the car together. Whether it’s going from fabric store to fitting or driving to locations that at times may be two to three hours away. When we are on the open road, we listen to everything from Sons of the Pioneers to Kanye West. And when we aren’t listening to music, we talk. We talk about anything and everything, taking in all that we pass along the way.

Christine: You grew up on the flat, plain side of Washington state. How do you think that influenced you growing up? Did it inspire you or did you just want to get out?

Colleen: I think that, when you grow up in a place that’s pretty empty, that in your mind you’re able to fill up the space in different ways and appreciate the beauty that’s in the things that aren’t there, like the sky as opposed to a bunch of buildings or the one tree as opposed to the forest, which is a different kind of sensibility that I think affected my design sensibility and what it was. Of course, I was driven to leave in a way, too, because I wanted to be stimulated in different ways. But I think ultimately growing up in a place that is nominal like that, you learn to see different things in a different way and you appreciate the—what you call in art “negative space.”

Christine: You kind of have a cowboy attitude. Do you think that’s part of it? You’ve kind of taken it in now and appreciate it more?

Colleen: No, I think I’ve always loved it because I think that the two things that I wanted to do as a kid were to be an artist or to own a ranch. My grandmother and my grandfather were ranchers, and I spent a lot of time in a very beautiful ranch environment. I’ve always loved it.

 

 

Christine: Your ideas come from all over the place. Do you think that you’re on all the time? Just absorbing all the time, from everything you see? Or do you give yourself a break sometimes?

Colleen: I don’t think about it consciously really. I think when you’re out and around you see stuff and sometimes you go, Oh man look at that guy over there. I wish I had seen him on my last job. Or you just look at people and you get inspired from what they’re doing or the way they’re acting or a piece of material. But it’s almost like you look at it and it flows through your subconscious in a way and comes back in strange ways. Like last night, I had a dream—I used to make model towns when I was little, and I dreamed I was making one and the roads were made out of rickrack.

Christine: Oh, nice.

Colleen: I was like, why am I dreaming—about rickrack?

Christine: The winding streets in town?

Colleen: Yeah, because I saw velvet rickrack yesterday and got excited for a minute.

Christine: Lovely. That’s awesome. I read a quote—something a while back where you said, “Costume is the first impression of a character you have before they open their mouths. It establishes who they are.” How does that translate into your new bag line that you’re going to be coming out with? You’ve given each of your bags a character name, right?

Colleen: It’s changed a little bit from that because it started out as character names or place names. One bag is called [Scala] because it’s kind of an Old World bag, and I was going to Italy to design [La Scala] and I kept thinking of it as the bag, that Milanese bag [the Scala]. I’m inventing names as they go. They’ve shifted a little bit from the original concept, too, where I was thinking kind of almost like women’s personalities. And I think it’s become a combination, a marriage of the two.

Christine: Say you’re styling someone in modern clothes; do you go about that the same way? Do you need to get to know that person to get a personality read from them so that you can draw that into part of a design?

Colleen: I think I do that no matter whether it’s modern or period. You can’t really design a character without knowing who the character is going to be. Even though you read about the newest idea. You think fondly of films that you’ve worked on before, but is that true? Is it that you just look forward to thenext challenge?

Colleen: I like the idea of taking what I know, taking what I’ve done and trying to not do it again the same way and always trying to be fresh and come up with new things. I think that excites me more than going down memory lane and going, “Oh, on that job I did this and on that job I did that.” You kind of remember, “OK, I did that there, that worked kind of good, but for this it’s not right,” and come to a new place.

Christine: And past ideas that maybe didn’t get completely thought out on other jobs.

Colleen: Yes, or used sometimes, which is always kind of a drag. But still you go, “OK, I’ll save that for another day.”

Christine: Just put it in your back pocket. What are you working on right now?

Colleen: I’m working on Through the Looking Glass. It’s the Alice in Wonderland second book. It’s a similar kind of fantasy sort of atmosphere, sort of like the first one. Same cast, basically part two, which I’ve never done before. It’s kind of weird for me, but I didn’t want to not do it because I liked the process on the first one so much. I’m also working on this first project, this purse project, which is an ongoing thing and something I think about every day and do a little bit on every day while I’m doing everything else. And then I’m getting ready to do a movie called Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children, which is a wonderful Tim project that I’m really looking forward to but haven’t started yet.

 

 

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Christine: Do you have any personal heroes? Maybe now and also maybe when you were young?

Colleen: I think the people that I admired when I was young were my grandparents probably the most. I grew up when Kennedy was president. He was a great hero, and Martin Luther King Jr., but it was sort of a hero that was so huge that it was sort of untouchable.

But my parents and their stories and their histories, which were very diverse, were fascinating to me when I was a child, and I still think they are great stories. As you go through life and become an adult, you have the great heroes of politics and the great heroes of religion, like the Dalai Lama. They’re heroic people, but to me some of the people that I’ve met through a charity that I helped with that worked with children that need serious medical help are really amazing heroes. I think that anyone that works in medicine and healing is a special kind of hero.

Christine: You are talking about Art of Elysium?

Colleen: Yes.

Christine: What did you do? Did you do any specific project with them?

Colleen: I have to confess I didn’t do enough with them, and it’s something that I’m not walking away from. But I did a Halloween project at the hospital where a group of people that worked with me all with great love came together, and we made costumes for the kids and they made costumes with us. It was a great afternoon. It was so rewarding and inspirational to see what little things mean to people. Sometimes some of us forget that.

Christine: Last question. You told me once that when you—I’m going to say it aloud—“retire,” which personally I don’t think will ever happen, that you want to design for a cheesy Mexican soap opera. Is that still true?

Colleen: Probably. I think that would be fun. At least they’ll be able to use a lot of color and things.

Christine: Get your Mariachi inspiration worked in there somewhere.

Colleen: Yeah. I’ve always loved the Mariachi costume and where it comes from. Actually, this week I’ve been listening to NPR do this story on the border and there’s a lot of Mariachi in the background. The idea of telling a story through the song the way that Mariachi does is a beautiful thing to me. But for a band they have a pretty good outfit.

 

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LEILA STEINBERG

It’s a midweek evening inside the Pico Youth & Family Center in Santa Monica. Approximately 40 young people, a combination at-risk youth and teenagers aspiring to careers in the arts, are leaning forward in their seats toward a small stage set with a single microphone. A girl with artfully frizzy hair plays a soul-folk song, her own composition, and her young colleagues applaud and offer commentary and constructive criticism. Over the course of the next couple hours, these youths will take turns performing songs, poems and raps based around a single topic that had been assigned the previous week. Seated left of stage is Leila Steinberg, veteran community activist and the enthusiastic matriarch of this artistic assembly. The thoughtful, beatific Steinberg was Tupac Shakur’s first manager, a fact that secures her credibility in the eyes of the young people around her, many of whom were not born at the time of the hip-hop superstar’s 1996 passing but who still study and revere him as an inspirational icon.

“What is our point of unity?” Steinberg asks the assembly. A boy in a backwards baseball cap calls out: “We all want to express what’s in our hearts.” “That’s right,” Steinberg says, “and we do that by focusing on what we want to say with our voices.” The aim of this weekly workshop is to equip all the attendees with a healthy level of emotional literacy, and develop the most gifted among them as potential world leaders. As Steinberg tells them: “I want to mother you into being everything you can be.”

A mother of four, Steinberg does not use the verb “mother” lightly. The young people in her orbit are participants in a program called AIM (www.aim4theheart.org) that Steinberg founded 17 years ago, its roots dating back to a writers’ workshop she hosted in her Santa Rosa living room in the late 1980s that included a precocious teenage truth-seeker named Tupac Shakur.

A few days later, Steinberg is seated at a Highland Park café for this interview. Though she expresses trepidation that this article will focus on her personal story and not her work, her biographical details illuminate her mission. Her Polish-American father was a criminal defense lawyer working on issues of social inequality, her Mexican mother (who’d come to the United States at age 9) an organizer alongside Cesar Chavez and an activist with Amnesty International. Born in Los Angeles, Leila became an accomplished dancer and a member of the pioneering highlife group O.J. Ekemode and the Nigerian All-Stars, with whom she began to speak out as part of the anti-apartheid movement spearheaded by Amnesty.

“I understood how Amnesty leader Jack Healey built an entire movement with arts,” Steinberg says. “Tracy Chapman and Sting grew his cause, but they also were the work. I had an agenda which at the time I wasn’t able to frame. All my father’s clients were black and brown. My questions started in elementary school. The first placed I lived was 64th and Vermont, then we migrated to the La Cienega area, then migrated to Santa Monica, then Malibu. I was well aware of the privilege I had because my family understood the power of education and we had access. We had upward mobility and access and I knew there was an injustice in that. That drove me.”

When she became a young mother, Steinberg and her family relocated to the San Francisco Bay Area. Her husband was a DJ and nightclub promoter, and one night a 17-year-old Tupac came to dance at her husband’s club. That was the first moment Leila Steinberg saw Pac, and by cosmic design the pair ran into each other again the following day. “I was sitting on the grass in a big field in Marin City before starting to teach class,” remembers Steinberg. “I was reading Winnie Mandela’s Part of My Soul Went with Him, and Pac happened to walk by. He said, ‘What are you doing with that book? What do you know about Winnie Mandela?’ I said a lot, actually, that I was involved in the anti-apartheid movement. We began talking about issues that interested us, and he became a part of my family from that moment.

“My life became consumed with making Pac matter to everybody. I believed he was the one, like Bob Marley and many before him. It wasn’t just about arts. It was about social, political and educational aspects. It was about everything but entertainment for me. That was a by-product. Of course Pac could be entertaining. His art was, in its inception, for the sake of greater good. How can you raise a generation who are not wanted? Tupac was obsessed with the pain and imbalance in his community—all of the issues that he was born and cultivated to address.”

At Tupac’s behest Steinberg became his first manager, and the two worked closely during Pac’s late teenage years to refine his artistic mission. Steinberg is jointly responsible, along with Tupac’s mother, Afeni Shakur, for putting together Tupac’s best-selling, posthumous book of poetry, The Rose That Grew from Concrete (MTV Books, 1999). Comprised of poetry written during Tupac’s teenage years, the book has influenced subsequent generations worldwide.

“I wanted to get the book published while he was still alive,” says Steinberg. “I’d been reading those poems in classroom workshops for years. I’d open an assembly to 2,000 kids by reading the Tupac poem “Lady Liberty Needs Glasses” and have kids talk about what he meant by that. There are now classes at every Ivy League school on Tupac! Two hundred years from now when people want to understand what was happening in race, politics and music, they will study Tupac.”

With a John Singleton–directed Tupac biopic in production, Steinberg has only recently begun speaking to the press again about Tupac after years of grief-darkened silence. “In a sense I’m doing more work with Tupac today than when he was still here,” she says. “I’m using his poems every day, and I thank him every day. Now, after 25 years of process, I actually feel I can step out into the world and bring something viable to the way we impact our youth. I really want to make a difference, still. I haven’t changed.”

With AIM, Steinberg has created a no-cost curriculum called Heart Education that can be used in any setting where “heart work” is needed. “It works in juvenile halls, in prisons, in thirdrate classrooms,” Steinberg says. Tupac’s poems are an embedded part of that curriculum. Back at the Pico Youth & Family Center, the evening gathering is winding down. Some of the young people speak excitedly about a pending trip to Hawaii, where Steinberg will lead workshops for children on the island, and offer training in her emotional education curriculum. Steinberg announces the topic for the week’s writing assignment: revelation. As hugs and promises of “See you next week!” fill the room, Steinberg offers everyone some parting words of inspiration: “Remember, the reason Tupac is the most studied artist of his generation is because of his heart work.”

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