BRETT GORVY

The week before a big sale, Brett Gorvy has a ritual. “I get up very early in the morning, before the day begins,” says the Chair of the Post-War and Contemporary Art Department at Christie’s, the auction house that has been in business since 1766. He heads straight to Christie’s New York City headquarters on Avenue of the Americas and goes to the salesroom as soon as he arrives. There, the art soon to be auctioned has been installed in an exhibition that probably won’t stay up for more than a week. “I spend time enjoying it, all the work.”

Gorvy, who has made Art Review’s annual Power 100 list for the past decade, has been the sole head of the department since 2011, a year before Post-War and Contemporary surpassed Impressionism as the auction house’s most lucrative category. Before that, he headed up the department collaboratively with chic, photogenic Amy Cappellazzo, known for saying quippy things like “so much for the weak dollar” after a significant sale. She moved on to development before leaving the auction house to pursue other projects in 2013. When Gorvy officially took the helm, Steven Murphy, Christie’s CEO, cited his “museum-quality presentation of the sale previews” as evidence of his aptitude for his job.

So Gorvy has organized, and thus seen, quite a few of these salesroom shows over the years, many featuring staggeringly valuable artwork by icons: Warhol’s silkscreen, “Statue of Liberty,” in 2012, or Lucian Freud’s “Benefits Supervisor Sleeping,” a gritty painting of a fleshy, nude woman on a couch that sold for $33.6 million in 2008, when Gorvy and Cappellazzo still worked as a team. Sometimes, though, it can be hard to feel excitement when you’ve been immersed in the logistics of transporting work, inspecting it, installing it and assembling catalogues. You could feasibly enter a salesroom that includes, say, Jackson Pollock’s “Number 19,” a painting that spent 10 years out of public view before selling at Christie’s in May 2013, and feel little to no awe. But Gorvy felt awe one morning last autumn when he arrived to spend time with the art set to sell on November 12, 2013.

“I’d never seen a room wall-to-wall look as good,” he recalls. “It’s rare that it happens that way—by the time you get to the sale, it’s inevitable that you have these ups and downs. What defined it for me was that ultimately every movement was represented—the ’80s, the ’90s.” He saw Christopher Wool’s “Apocalypse Now,” a black-on-white text piece that announced in all caps, “SELL EVERYTHING, SELL THE HOUSE, SELL THE CAR, SELL THE KIDS.” He saw a Jackson Pollock painting and the perfectly polished, shining orange, towering balloon dog by Jeff Koons. Then there was Francis Bacon’s “Three Studies of Lucian Freud,” a loose trio of portraits of Freud, also a painter and grandson of the original psychoanalyst. Each six and half feet tall, the three paintings have a yellow-orange and pea-green background, and a strange, fragmented frame near the center. Inside of that frame, on a wooden chair, sits a man—Freud—with one leg crossed over the other. His face, all bulges of gray and pink, is distorted like faces always are in Bacon’s work. “MoMA doesn’t have a Bacon of this caliber,” says Gorvy. He remembers thinking, “I’ve got a sale the people should see. Auction history will be made.”

Gorvy had already intended to send out a standard email later that day, pitching the show and sale to colleagues. “I decided I’m just going to dictate,” he recalls, and tried to convey his enthusiasm spontaneously while an assistant transcribed. The resulting memo would be picked apart on New York Magazine’s Vulture blog and posted in full on the art news source GalleristNY. (“Folks, there is effusiveness, and then there is Brett Gorvy,” read the Gallerist intro.) In subsequent weeks, its tone would also be mimicked by other auction houses.

“I am rendered rather speechless by the works,” the memo began. It continued: “In my heart, I believe the results this week will be extraordinary.” They were. The Francis Bacon triptych sold for $142.4 million, making it the most expensive painting ever sold at auction, outstripping Edvard Munch’s “The Scream,” sold by Sotheby’s for $120 million in 2012. “A historic moment,” the auctioneer actually said while bidding was still under way the night of the auction. People cheered when it sold. Jeff Koons’ “Balloon Dog” also set the record for an artwork by a living artist—noteworthy, but also no longer unexpected, seeing as Christie’s has set records in Post-War and Contemporary sales each year since 2010.

“We have barely had five days to enjoy this kind of caliber and beauty,” Gorvy’s memo also said. “Each season I wonder if we can do this again.” And then they do.

Gorvy speaks on the record about sales results, market trends and specific artworks frequently. It’s rarer for him to talk about his personal tastes or routine, though he and his wife, art dealer Amy Gold, did give Architectural Digest a tour of their apartment late in 2013, showing off an art collection that includes rare photographs documenting work by visceral feminist artist Ana Mendieta and a drawing by 1960s jack-of-all-trades Bruce Conner. Gorvy’s relative quietness regarding anything other than work may have to do with a natural desire for privacy but probably more with sheer busyness. He is in airports constantly, out of the country as often as in.

Born in South Africa to British parents, he spent the first part of his childhood in Johannesburg, then moved to London in the mid-1970s, when his father, financier Manfred Gorvy, relocated for work. Manfred would soon found the highly successful real estate and development company Hanover Acceptances Limited, and he and his wife, Lydia, collected art, so Gorvy and his three siblings grew up around it.

As a student, Gorvy studied art history and began a career as an art journalist in London in the late 1980s. He was still happy reporting on the art world when a friend of his, who worked at Christie’s longtime competitor, Sotheby’s, offered him a job. He turned it down. But in 1994, that same friend had accepted a new position at Christie’s. “He offered me the job again,” says Gorvy, who accepted this time, ready for a change. “I’ve been rather lucky,” he adds.

Before he began at Christie’s, even though he knew art well, actual, iconic paintings and sculptures seemed distant to him, certainly not like things you could get close enough to touch. This quickly changed. He remembers an early experience he had at the auction house. “I went into a warehouse and, on the table, there was a small copper Modigliani out of its frame,” he says.

He picked up the piece by the Italian painter, a prolific, stylish Bohemian who once criticized Picasso for being “uncouth.” “I felt the weight of the copper in my hand. You’re so close to the art—you’re seeing it naked.”

When Gorvy first started at Christie’s in 1994, the art market, like many markets, had been struggling. Art sales had boomed in the 1980s. Interest in young talent had grown as new money proliferated on Wall Street and the Japanese yen gained strength. Investors started to see art as a speculative asset, something you could buy for relatively little and then ideally resell for much more. Young graffiti artist Jean-Michel Basquiat became an overnight sensation, posing for the Newsweek feature “New Art, New Money: The Marketing of an American Artist” in 1985, at just 25 years old. Basquiat would tragically be dead of an overdose before prices plummeted in 1990, as the early ’90s economic recession began three years after the jarring 1987 stock market crash. Work by artists like Eric Fischl and Julian Schnabel, newly and excessively popular in the 1980s, and even work by Warhol would fail to find buyers. Gradually, though, over the next decade the market would build itself up to record sales levels, becoming more global and withstanding the dot-com crash. “I grew up basically as the market changed,” Gorvy says.

In 2003, the year he and Cappellazzo first made it onto the Power 100 list, they sold a Basquiat painting for more than $600,000, nearly $150,000 above the estimate but far less than what a painting like that would go for today—Christie’s sold Basquiat’s “Dustheads” for $48.8 million in the summer of 2013. After 2008, during the recession, the market dropped around 30 percent, but then Cappellazzo and Gorvy had auction sales up by over 100 percent by the autumn of 2010. Dubai and Hong Kong were growing markets. Now, it’s commonplace to see headlines like the one Art in America published in 2012: “Biggest Contemporary Art Auction at Christie’s New York, Again.” That time, the sale featured Basquiat, abstract expressionist Franz Kline and everpresent contemporary powerhouse Jeff Koons.

One explanation for this seemingly continuous growth is the new international vastness of the market. “You feel the Russians, you feel the Middle East,” says Gorvy, who values “being able to reach out and have that global connection.” But he dismisses the idea that breathtakingly big sales at Christie’s represent a mismatch between the money and the actual cultural value of the art. Collectors aren’t buying with their ears, based on what they’ve heard is hot, at least not the collectors who matter. “Every market has its great period,” he says. “In reality it’s not about the record making. It’s more about a passionate pursuit.”

Before a sale, when collectors can’t decide whether they want to buy, he tells them to imagine themselves waking up the next morning and not having that work of art. Would they kick themselves? “My wife and I collect,” he explains. “I know what it feels like. Most people want to own art because they want to live with it.” And these are smart people, Gorvy has said when interviewed elsewhere; they made their money doing something they’re good at and know what they like.

Throughout the years, Gorvy has held conversations in salesrooms with art historians, like the 2008 interview he conducted with Dr. David Anfam about abstract expressionism, or commissioned respected writers for catalogue essays, like novelist Jonathan Lethem, who recently wrote about Warhol. But the intellectual part is never the most important. “My job really is to make sure every work looks its best. It’s all an instinctive thing that hits you in the gut,” he says of collecting. It’s a revelation, to encounter new works, even by artists who have already made it into history. “You think you know an artist and then you see a new painting. You come face to face with an amazing object.”

“It doesn’t feel like work. You get on the plane—meet with someone who lives with art.” He’s in an airport as he says this, about to fly to Europe to meet with a collector who’s been living with paintings Christie’s briefly had under its roof. This part of the job never fails to excite him. “You’re humbled, frankly, by the art.”

 

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THEASTER GATES BY FRANKLIN SIRMANS

“I feel I’m in a moment where people are really curious about what the next move is,” Theaster Gates offers, as I’m thinking, yes, tell me what’s next, what’s coming up? We are still early in 2015. I’m feeling as though I can still shape it. “Is he going to make a great work of art? Is he going to become a commercial artist? Is he going to retreat? Is he going to fail because actually we knew it was just a gimmick anyway?” he ruminates. I think it apropos that his first big museum exhibition was called To Speculate Darkly. “It feels good to live with a set of aspirations that are beyond the bet,” he turns the thought. “If nothing else, I could play albums to the babies so that they know who Thelonious Monk is. I am equally invested in playing songs to the babies as I am in my artistic practice,” he says laughingly but seemingly dead serious. Big questions aside, Gates emphasizes that the search is always to create perfect moments, poetic moments. “I want to imagine myself in the context of a moment and the context of a place with my ideas and see what that is all about.”

We caught up with each other as Gates was fresh off his second TED Talk and a couple months past his Artes Mundi 6 prize win, preparing next for his second solo show at the White Cube gallery in London at the end of April—Freedom of Assembly—and his participation in the Venice and Istanbul biennial exhibitions, in May and September respectively.

The TED Talk is a perfect platform for Gates—a hands-free microphone and a rapt audience of people who think as big as he does. “I was able to finally tell a kind of comprehensive story about Dorchester but also about the kind of impact that artists can make in the world—kind of beyond the practice, but in a way, we can only make the kind of impact we make because of the way we’re trained and the way we think.” Dorchester is Gates’ most well known gesture, performance and artwork, Dorchester Projects, which opened in 2009. It started with one abandoned two-story building converted into a library, slide archive and food kitchen. It is now a cluster of formerly abandoned buildings that have been renovated and rehabilitated to support and encourage redevelopment on Chicago’s South Side via the sharing of culture and ideas. Far from the Art Institute and the Museum of Contemporary Art, there were few cultural centers in the lower-income neighborhood.

“If we were to talk about the arc of a decade, the way that I started my TED Talk was by saying, ‘I’m a potter, and one of the things I learned pretty early in clay was that potters had the ability to make something out of nothing.’ And that the limitations of our sculpting were based on our hands and our imagination. So from the beginning I felt that the burden of transformation was always on me, and that it could only be as beautiful as I could imagine it and as I could build it. So if you were to carry that kind of vocational understanding through the next decade, then it was like—it went from shaping my house to shaping a block, to shaping city policy, to imagining that there was a model inside of this that meant that artists could shape the world.” And while some bad fools sling incredulous mud at Gates as if he were a prophet of trickle-down economics, the proof is in the proverbial pudding. Sure, the work travels the world to all the usual places, yet the beating heart stems from the streets of Dorchester on Chicago’s South Side. In addition to the international collectors on the art circuit, the city’s civic leaders are engaged.

“He had a vision on the South Side. And since we, as a city and as a country, have tried almost every other form of redevelopment, I said, ‘Why don’t we try the one that’s most obvious—the arts?’ Theaster has a commitment to his art and to the community that’s unique,” said Chicago Mayor Rahm Emanuel in a 2014 New Yorker article on Gates.

Like several of Chicago’s political leaders, Gates comes from a foundational experience with the church in early childhood. In addition to two degrees in urban planning, the artist holds a degree in religious studies. Liberation theology is understandably deeply embedded in his work. Gates’ art was included in Josef Helfenstein’s Experiments with Truth: Gandhi and Images of Nonviolence last year at the Menil Collection in Houston. The piece presented at Artes Mundi in Wales earlier this year—where Gates shared his (40,000 GBP) winnings with the other nominated artists—was titled A Complicated Relationship Between Heaven and Earth, or, When We Believe. That work sought to challenge Western ideas around Christianity, but Gates is level about specifics, and much more of a spiritualist. For the sake of the comparison, the art historical foundation for Gates in my mind is a cross between Joseph Beuys, Robert Rauschenberg and Doris Salcedo. “Art is not power for me. Do I believe in the power of art? Yes, but I understand that the power of art and the power to create is part of a larger power … All of this stuff is given to me through a rich spiritual muscle that I flex alongside artistic belief.” Whether he’s walking the walk or stumbling beautifully, Gates aspires to a spiritual character that is always genuine. He is quick to call BS on himself when something flies out of his mouth that he realizes after the fact is disingenuous or just plain wrong.

The music of the church is the music he feels. Early on when we met, Theaster and I were on a panel together with the curator Naomi Beckwith, who is also from Chicago. I was surprised by the fact that when it came time for Theaster to speak, he bellowed into a deep moody song that had definite reference in Negro spirituals. Naomi laughed as though she had seen this before, and eventually we both nodded to the gospel. Another significant part of his practice to date involves musical collaboration with the Black Monks of Mississippi, the experimental ensemble assembled by Gates in 2008. The Monks, with their obvious nod to “Eastern ideals of melodic restraint,” combine that with the “the spirit of gospel in the Black Church and soul of the Blues.”

“I can’t even call what I do singing,” says Gates. “It never had that burden. I think what I did was that I learned to talk. I learned to communicate beyond my body, and that was a training that happened every Sunday. Every Saturday at choir rehearsal, there were these notes and you had to memorize words, but past that you were learning to communicate emotion. So … it was the church, but the church is just a word—it was more like school. I’ve always said that I’m always just looking for the best language to communicate ideas, and in some cases, a material object is not the best way. Practice!”

 

“The Black Monastic” |  Theaster Gates and the Black Monks of Mississippi perform during residency at Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art | Porto, Portugal (2014) | Photo by Sara Pooley | Courtesy of the artist

 

Work from Gates’ Tar Painting series (2014) | Installation view, Prospect 3, New Orleans

 

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STEVE VAN DOREN

It never rains in Southern California, and there are always a pair of Vans on someone’s feet. It sounds like a long-winded folk song by a sun-kissed guitar strummer on the Venice Boardwalk, but it’s really an ethos that embodies the spirit of those who call the Left Coast home. Much like the temperature here that rarely fluctuates, so too stands the resiliency of the steadfast and legendary shoe company that was founded by Paul Van Doren back in 1966. Having transcended the realm of footwear to become a cultural icon, the company has inevitably had to change to accommodate the modern world. But there are certain aspects of Vans that remain as recognizable as the Hollywood sign. The main thing? The Sidestripe.

To understand the staying power of one of the most distinctive contrasting elements in all of footwear is to know the history of the brand. The original intentions of Paul Van Doren, his brother Jim Van Doren and longtime friend Gordon Lee were to right the sinking ship of a factory in Gardenvale, California, that was owned at the time by Randy’s—a Boston-based shoe manufacturer best known for outfitting Boston Celtics legend Bob Cousy. In just eight short months, the fledgling factory was doing better than its eastern cousin. Thus, on March 16, 1966, at 704 E. Broadway in Anaheim, the partners opened up the first store of their own. At that point, there were only three companies manufacturing vulcanized footwear in the U.S.—Randy’s, Keds and Converse.

Steve Van Doren, son of Paul, remains an integral part of the operation despite the company’s sale to the banking firm McCown De Leeuw & Co. back in 1988. His passion for Vans is hard to ignore, and his knowledge of the inner workings of the brand makes him a footwear encyclopedia of sorts. And for him, it all starts with the Sidestripe—which debuted in 1977 on a new sneaker identified then simply as “Style 36.” (It’s now known as the Old Skool.) “The Sidestripe is a wavy line beginning in the front of the shoe below the eyestay lace area and ending at the  back counter area of the shoe. It followed the stitch line of the padded color of the Style 36,” explains Van Doren. “The navy suede and the light blue canvas was an excellent-looking shoe. I was really excited when it first came out, because it was more durable. Also, before that we did not have our own identifying design, and this was it! My father wanted to create a unique design that would identify the shoes as Vans. He always had a pencil in his hand and was always drawing or doodling simple sketches on a notepad.”

While Vans maintain a certain “relaxed” connotation thanks to their Southern California roots, as well as the earliest customers who flocked to the company, the Sidestripe’s origins are similar to those of other sneaker imprints. “You can see it from far away, [and it] stands out from all other shoes,” says Van Doren. “Skateboarding shoes back in the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s all looked the same, but if an athlete wore an Old Skool or Sk8-Hi you could spot it right away.” Brand recognition from afar is what footwear is all about.

One could argue that Stacy Peralta did for Vans and skateboarding what Michael Jordan did for basketball and Nike. Simply put, he became a role model for kids to emulate. “Stacy Peralta was the very first skateboarder to wear Vans,” says Van Doren. “From there, every skateboarder wore them, and then we came out with the high-top version, the Style 38, and the Sk8-Hi with a similar Sidestripe. Every well-known skater in the world wore one or the other during the ’80s and ’90s. If you were to watch the movie Bones Brigade, you would see every rider donning the Sidestripe.” From there, Vans and their signature design would go on to permeate other facets of youth lifestyle. “BMX riders immediately took on the Old Skool’s added benefits of padded materials and unique customization options,” adds Van Doren. “Today, I see a lot of musicians, artists, sneaker fans and car and motorcycle enthusiasts making the Old Skool their own.”

Very rarely does a brand get to keep its counterculture placard while at the same time enjoying fiscal and critical success. Yet Vans continue to carry an underground appeal that allows wearers to feel there’s a universal connection among them. “I would say Vans fans are expressing their individuality and personal style,” Van Doren says. “They like their product to be different, and Vans allows them that individuality and offers a heritage of good-quality products. The Sidestripe has represented authentic Vans branding for over 37 years.”

With nearly 50 years of success under their belt, there’s an anecdote— that just so happens to be true—that illustrates perfectly why Vans continue to be as beloved now as they were back in 1966. As the story goes, the first people to own Vans were each given a pair on an “honor system” of sorts, after Paul Van Doren and his associates had “forgotten to maintain a cash reserve to provide change to their customers.” “All 16 did come back,” says Van Doren. “15 of them by the next day, and the last was [paid for] by a lady a week later when she came home from a trip. It basically comes down to the trust and passion that is the foundation of our brand. My dad and his partners were trying to start a business [where] you put trust in your workers and customers. The company guaranteed its products because we trusted we made great shoes. The customer, by using our product, put trust that the American-made product they saw was good quality. People believing in other people is a very valuable idea. We had to prove we made great shoes, and counted on our customers to help tell our story to their friends. On the wall of our stores, we had a sign 8 feet long that said ‘Tell A Friend.’ From the first day the founders believed that our customers were our Number 1 focus, and we needed them to believe in our brand.”

 

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BERBERJIN

Vintage retail boutiques may seem a dime a dozen, but quality vintage is still hard to find. Things aren’t made like they used to be, and while many boutiques boast wide selection, the garments may not be stellar vintage, one-of-a-kind pieces: something old, well made and classic in character and style. It takes a very special eye to find these pieces. In Tokyo, though, there is a place that has a global reputation in the vintage scene. That place is BerBerJin.

Yutaka Fujihara became interested in vintage clothing in high school and aspired to work in the fashion industry from then on. The devoted denim lover’s early affair with Levi’s, Lee and Ralph Lauren played a part in inspiring his dream. In 1996, he opened BerBerJin with his vice president, Mr. Furutachi, and now he travels the world sourcing the perfect pieces for his stores in Shibuya and Harajuku. Fujihara loves shopping in Los Angeles and references Melrose Avenue for having one of his favorite vintage stores. “I think people desire to own the beauty of ‘one of a kind’ like vintage clothing,” he says. His rules for vintage are: the year it was made, the label and the rarity. He likes pieces that have a good vintage feel, but he mostly relies on what catches his eye.

It’s his love affair with denim that has ultimately made BerBerJin exceptional. The passion has also developed into an unprecedented personal book project with Levi’s. With the company’s blessing, Fujihara is creating a photography book on the amazing Levi’s 501 collection found in Japan. “I love the history of denim, and simply the feel of denim and the shade of indigo colors,” he says. BerBerJin’s success is also attributed to the quality and quantity of dead stock vintage items they carry, how fast their items rotate and how much they care for each of their customers.

To find clothes with a certain fit is part of the vintage anomaly. Clothing is not tailored like the good ol’ days either. There is so much bulk manufacturing in the clothing industry, it’s hard to find something perfect, something special. A trip to BerBerJin is like going back in time, digging in a treasure chest of wonder.

 

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STERLING RUBY

Much seems to have been made of the studio painter in the course of the past three years: Walker Art Center mounted a show (of largely abstract pictures) called Painter Painter; MoMA recently did its first painting survey in more than 50 years, The Forever Now: Contemporary Painting in an Atemporal World; and LACMA even tried to enter into the conversation with Variations: Conversations in and Around Abstract Painting. (Full disclosure: I co-curated that last one and Sterling Ruby was in it.) But if I think of Sterling and of his work, I would never imagine him as being part of that discourse. It is hard to find a more intellectually ambitious artist than Ruby.

Well, no matter how much we all know and love that studio painter—the consummate artist of doing one thing really well over and over again with slight variation—we will always need the magician who can do it all! Art is the last place where alchemy and magic are actually expected. So Ruby makes use of all kinds of materials in a sincere quest to make magic objects that are hard or soft: Clay, Formica, nail polish, urethane and denim are some of his ingredients, to name just a few. He also works in video, sculpture and ceramics in addition to painting, in addition to collaborating with his friend Raf Simons on a fashionable clothing line.

Ruby forces us to ponder big questions. To paraphrase Peter Schjeldahl from long ago, 1982 to be exact, Is it possible to “be radical indefinitely in any effective way?” Perhaps more to the point, is it possible to be radical and be a painter? And further, can one make abstract paintings that are the work of a radically inclined artist? Sterling Ruby does. He makes abstract paintings that recall Mark Rothko and Morris Louis, but there’s something amiss. Their tones and colors vary but they are all raining with drips of paint unlike that saturated into the surface. There’s the mark and the drip of spray that gives his paintings their tai-chi touch, recalling wall paintings and the preferred medium of the graffiti artist and writer. While they are usually all-over paintings with equal weight across the entire canvas, sometimes he uses black to outline space, creating either organic shapes or controlled blocks of color. Some recent ones are pinkish and pure candy-col- ored happiness. Others are brooding and dark. Some are clearly landscapes, filled with endless horizons. Sometimes I think Ruby makes the paintings bigger, as if to dare collectors to admit that they can’t afford to house such large works of art. Sometimes the really big ones conjure the feel of a wall and further recall the tradition of painting on walls under duress, when the drips are part of the process, intended or not. He calls those SP paintings. The Spray Paintings, of which there are approximately 300, are only one little piece of Ruby’s practice. It’s the most visible part of what he does, but it’s only a piece. If the paintings were all he did he’d probably be seen as an astute practitioner and one worthy of much success, but he wouldn’t be so special.

The surface demarcation of graffiti is something that Ruby has explored in great depth in another body of work, which consists of minimalist sculptures that have been colored like the paintings in some instances but also as simple cubes that are then tagged on by cutting into their Formica surfaces. Without going into detail on the works that involve Supermax prisons, which has been a major thematic in Ruby’s work over an extended period of time, one gets the sense that Ruby’s psychosocial space is not one of innocent wonder. His worldview is large.

Though born in 1972 in Germany to a Dutch mom and an American father, Ruby grew up in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, a rural area known for having a large Amish population. Sources online describe it as “a picturesque landscape. Rolling hills with lush landscapes and crops, farms with windmills dotting the horizon and horse and buggies sharing the road remind you that things are simpler here.” Things might be simple on the surface, but for the young Ruby, who saw the juxtapositions of the past and the present and the rural and the urban, it was a surreal place to grow up that provides a glimpse into the development of his art. Ruby absorbed his surroundings, in the country and in the cities, sensitive to the different sides of the tracks. “For me, it was about how as a kid I started to identify with visuals and aesthetics. The only culture I could get my hands on was surrounding me. It was where I grew up. I remember the landscapes of some Amish farms. They seemed drab, usually gray or beige, but then you see these super vivid quilts, kind of out of whack but also not. That’s the stuff that really drew me in, and I started identifying with the power of the visual in this context.” It also let him know early on that art had many contexts and was not only something for the museum. “ ‘Art’ is so narrow at times. It gets down to a very narrow group. I have a hard time with that.”

Not to say something so glibly, but the diversity of Ruby’s interests, matched by his materials, is perhaps unparalleled. His interest in art developed holistically out of the wonder of nature. Hunting and farming were familiar concepts. He attended an agrarian school before enrolling at the Pennsylvania College of Art & Design in Lancaster a year after graduation from high school, a year in which he worked construction. “They had an art history department but it was pretty steeped in Gardner’s Art Through the Ages. And I think that I realized about three quarters of the way through that in this day, that’s not really where or how good art happens.” In between adolescence and during school he also spent a lot of time in Baltimore and Washington, D.C., soaking up vastly different experiences as a curious youth open to that which was foreign. “In Pennsylvania, I often felt as though I were in a hostile, fascist community. It was so blind.”

When he moved to L.A. in 2003 in order to attend the MFA program at Art Center in Pasadena, he had recently earned a BFA from the School of the Art Institute in Chicago. But probably more important in terms of learning, he had worked at Video Data Bank in Chicago. Founded by the SAIC, VDB has been archiving video by and about contemporary artists since 1976. “That was my real segue into theory,” he says. Sitting alone in a room with the archive of archives in terms of contemporary video, Ruby would learn more than a few things on how to make good art. Imagine the combined holdings of the Louvre, Tate, Met and MoMA at your disposal every day in the same place if you are a painter.

Ruby is certainly no archetypal studio painter. But he’s a studio rat in the best sense, and his new studio is a big, living, physical archive space. He manages his own output on a desktop as we all do but he has also recently created a real living archive with the massive new studio operation. Works from his past are grouped according to materials and series, usually in a separate room. The new studio allows for presentations that approximate Ruby’s gallery spaces around the world, where the works debut to the public in meticulously thought-out juxtapositions. Walking around with him in the studio not far from downtown L.A. but far enough, you see his mind inspired by the work that has come before, as he dreams up new pieces to come.

 

SP293, 2014 | Spray paint on synthetic canvas | 96 x 84 x 2 inches | (243.8 x 213.4 x 5.1 cm)

 

Transcompositional/Pig Pen Strip Club, 2010 | Nail polish and Collage on acrylic | 72 x 96 inches | 182.9 x 243.8 cm(collage)

 

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ISA MACHINE

Los Angeles is a long way from the English seaside town of Aldeburgh, where ISABELLA “THE MACHINE” SUMMERS, 33, spent her formative years before landing on the West Coast last year, by way of London. “I’ve always been ‘L.A.’ I told my mum when I was 7 that I’d have a house in the Hollywood Hills, and she’d have to visit me there,” says Summers. “She reminds me of that all the time.”

So here she is. It’s a gray and drizzly Sunday morning—the kind of weather English girls know all too well—and Summers is hunkered down in her cozy recording studio on the Eastside of Los Angeles. “Flo calls it my cupboard,” she says. Flo is none other than Florence Welch, with whom Summers founded the hit-making band Florence and the Machine. And the cupboard joke is a nod to her former recording space in London during college—a converted bedroom closet. But the DJ and music producer has come a long way since then, with Grammy nominationsfor the band’s albums Lungs (2009, Island Records) and Ceremonials (2011, Island Records). And currently, her studio is part of Echo Park’s Bedrock complex, home to the likes of fellow musicians Flying Lotus and Eagles of Death Metal’s Jesse Hughes. A far cry from a cupboard.

Looking back, Summers’ first musical epiphany came to her at 12 years old in Aldeburgh—a coastal destination that bustled with tourists in the summer and dwindled down to the local fishing community in the off-season. “Two older neighborhood boys who lived next door and were kind of intimidating gave me a cassette tape and, in a scary way, said, ‘You gotta listen to it,’” she laughs. The mix contained Snoop Dogg and Gravediggaz. “I was so in awe of the rude boys next door, I listened to it over and over,” adds Summers. From that moment on, she was hooked on hip-hop.

But it was also her actor-turned-fisherman father’s obsession with recording sound bites from the radio since the 1970s—everything from shipping forecasts to Bob Dylan and a Bavarian opera—that turned Summers on to the idea of creating her own sounds. “He has over 150 mix tapes and they are all brilliant,” muses Summers of her dad’s “batshit crazy” works and soundbite mashups. “I think that’s why I got into sampling and hip-hop. Everything can be sampled down to one kick.”

So it’s no surprise that when she turned 18, Summers acquired her first set of decks. “If all the boys are doing it, why the fuck can’t I?” she recalls thinking. And once she was admitted to the prestigious Central Saint Martins to study art—initially part time, then full—she began spending more time in London and focusing her energies on her passion for music.

“I was desperate to be weird and creative,” says Summers, who nabbed herself a DJ residency at a local club under the moniker Laydee Isa. “It would be a challenge to go and DJ at this really scary place called The Jam in Brixton, and I would force myself to go there. It was a real endurance to go and deal with all the thugs, but I loved it.” Summers’ cocky attitude fueled her drive to take her talent to the next level and quickly helped her land a gig spinning on the local radio station’s Saturday night hip-hop show, in between earning a fine art and film degree. Local DJ Dan Greenpeace took her under his wing, and before long Summers found herself hanging out with hip-hop icons such as The Game and the late Guru.

Driven by the desire to become a well-known name in producing, Summers purchased an MPC (Music Production Controller) and spent the next year holed up in her recording space, learning zow to use it. “I was making it up as I went along,” she says. Tired of recording with rappers whom she had encountered during her DJing stint, she approached her friend’s girlfriend, then aspiring singer Welch, about a possible collaboration.

“This girl is going to be a megastar,” was Summers’ first thought when the duo began recording and writing songs together in her new studio—an upgrade from her previous spaces and “the first place I could actually invite people to that wasn’t in my cupboard or my bedroom,” she jokes. “We’d try to write a hit in half an hour—write the lyrics and record a beat. We’d do whole days like that, making music in our underwear.” The strategy clearly paid off for the best friends, who wrote the hit “Dog Days” during this time period.

By 2008 the fully formed band had a manager and a recording contract and went back to Summers’ studio to revisit some of the earlier material Summers and Welch had created. “I was coming from a hip-hop perspective, she was coming from an indie perspective, and we were making this weird sound together” says Summers—a sound that both rocketed them to fame and launched six years worth of touring around the world with Summers playing keyboards in the band. That ended in 2013 with Summers firmly planting her roots in Los Angeles.

But that’s just the tip of the iceberg for the music-world darling, who is now turning her focus toward producing a slew of artists and re-upping her hip-hop game. In between traveling to London to record Florence and the Machine’s next album, Summers (whose current obsessions include ’60s and ’70s music and rapper 2 Chainz) has worked with everyone from Rita Ora to Juliette Lewis, all while falling for her new hometown. “I fucking love it here,” she says. “The guys are really hot, and there are loads of people to make rap with, which is what I really want to do. I’m going to make it happen.”

 

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COLLEEN ATWOOD

I was introduced to COLLEEN ATWOOD 15 years ago. As someone who works “in costume,” I was of course curious how Colleen produced such interesting designs. Expecting a serious type of person, I walked into her office and she was on the floor, doing a yoga handstand against the wall, and shook my hand upside down. That’s kind of how I always think of Colleen—looking at things from a different angle. 

Our personalities clicked, and I have been lucky enough to be able to work with her almost exclusively for quite some time. We both come from small towns, me from Texas and Colleen from Washington state; I think we are similarly able to be open to new ideas and experiences, as curious people are when they have outgrown their surroundings. That open-mindedness is the main thing we have in common, both in our working relationship and, over time, what has become a great friendship.

When Colleen and I are working, we spend enormous amounts of time in the car together. Whether it’s going from fabric store to fitting or driving to locations that at times may be two to three hours away. When we are on the open road, we listen to everything from Sons of the Pioneers to Kanye West. And when we aren’t listening to music, we talk. We talk about anything and everything, taking in all that we pass along the way.

Christine: You grew up on the flat, plain side of Washington state. How do you think that influenced you growing up? Did it inspire you or did you just want to get out?

Colleen: I think that, when you grow up in a place that’s pretty empty, that in your mind you’re able to fill up the space in different ways and appreciate the beauty that’s in the things that aren’t there, like the sky as opposed to a bunch of buildings or the one tree as opposed to the forest, which is a different kind of sensibility that I think affected my design sensibility and what it was. Of course, I was driven to leave in a way, too, because I wanted to be stimulated in different ways. But I think ultimately growing up in a place that is nominal like that, you learn to see different things in a different way and you appreciate the—what you call in art “negative space.”

Christine: You kind of have a cowboy attitude. Do you think that’s part of it? You’ve kind of taken it in now and appreciate it more?

Colleen: No, I think I’ve always loved it because I think that the two things that I wanted to do as a kid were to be an artist or to own a ranch. My grandmother and my grandfather were ranchers, and I spent a lot of time in a very beautiful ranch environment. I’ve always loved it.

 

 

Christine: Your ideas come from all over the place. Do you think that you’re on all the time? Just absorbing all the time, from everything you see? Or do you give yourself a break sometimes?

Colleen: I don’t think about it consciously really. I think when you’re out and around you see stuff and sometimes you go, Oh man look at that guy over there. I wish I had seen him on my last job. Or you just look at people and you get inspired from what they’re doing or the way they’re acting or a piece of material. But it’s almost like you look at it and it flows through your subconscious in a way and comes back in strange ways. Like last night, I had a dream—I used to make model towns when I was little, and I dreamed I was making one and the roads were made out of rickrack.

Christine: Oh, nice.

Colleen: I was like, why am I dreaming—about rickrack?

Christine: The winding streets in town?

Colleen: Yeah, because I saw velvet rickrack yesterday and got excited for a minute.

Christine: Lovely. That’s awesome. I read a quote—something a while back where you said, “Costume is the first impression of a character you have before they open their mouths. It establishes who they are.” How does that translate into your new bag line that you’re going to be coming out with? You’ve given each of your bags a character name, right?

Colleen: It’s changed a little bit from that because it started out as character names or place names. One bag is called [Scala] because it’s kind of an Old World bag, and I was going to Italy to design [La Scala] and I kept thinking of it as the bag, that Milanese bag [the Scala]. I’m inventing names as they go. They’ve shifted a little bit from the original concept, too, where I was thinking kind of almost like women’s personalities. And I think it’s become a combination, a marriage of the two.

Christine: Say you’re styling someone in modern clothes; do you go about that the same way? Do you need to get to know that person to get a personality read from them so that you can draw that into part of a design?

Colleen: I think I do that no matter whether it’s modern or period. You can’t really design a character without knowing who the character is going to be. Even though you read about the newest idea. You think fondly of films that you’ve worked on before, but is that true? Is it that you just look forward to thenext challenge?

Colleen: I like the idea of taking what I know, taking what I’ve done and trying to not do it again the same way and always trying to be fresh and come up with new things. I think that excites me more than going down memory lane and going, “Oh, on that job I did this and on that job I did that.” You kind of remember, “OK, I did that there, that worked kind of good, but for this it’s not right,” and come to a new place.

Christine: And past ideas that maybe didn’t get completely thought out on other jobs.

Colleen: Yes, or used sometimes, which is always kind of a drag. But still you go, “OK, I’ll save that for another day.”

Christine: Just put it in your back pocket. What are you working on right now?

Colleen: I’m working on Through the Looking Glass. It’s the Alice in Wonderland second book. It’s a similar kind of fantasy sort of atmosphere, sort of like the first one. Same cast, basically part two, which I’ve never done before. It’s kind of weird for me, but I didn’t want to not do it because I liked the process on the first one so much. I’m also working on this first project, this purse project, which is an ongoing thing and something I think about every day and do a little bit on every day while I’m doing everything else. And then I’m getting ready to do a movie called Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children, which is a wonderful Tim project that I’m really looking forward to but haven’t started yet.

 

 

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Christine: Do you have any personal heroes? Maybe now and also maybe when you were young?

Colleen: I think the people that I admired when I was young were my grandparents probably the most. I grew up when Kennedy was president. He was a great hero, and Martin Luther King Jr., but it was sort of a hero that was so huge that it was sort of untouchable.

But my parents and their stories and their histories, which were very diverse, were fascinating to me when I was a child, and I still think they are great stories. As you go through life and become an adult, you have the great heroes of politics and the great heroes of religion, like the Dalai Lama. They’re heroic people, but to me some of the people that I’ve met through a charity that I helped with that worked with children that need serious medical help are really amazing heroes. I think that anyone that works in medicine and healing is a special kind of hero.

Christine: You are talking about Art of Elysium?

Colleen: Yes.

Christine: What did you do? Did you do any specific project with them?

Colleen: I have to confess I didn’t do enough with them, and it’s something that I’m not walking away from. But I did a Halloween project at the hospital where a group of people that worked with me all with great love came together, and we made costumes for the kids and they made costumes with us. It was a great afternoon. It was so rewarding and inspirational to see what little things mean to people. Sometimes some of us forget that.

Christine: Last question. You told me once that when you—I’m going to say it aloud—“retire,” which personally I don’t think will ever happen, that you want to design for a cheesy Mexican soap opera. Is that still true?

Colleen: Probably. I think that would be fun. At least they’ll be able to use a lot of color and things.

Christine: Get your Mariachi inspiration worked in there somewhere.

Colleen: Yeah. I’ve always loved the Mariachi costume and where it comes from. Actually, this week I’ve been listening to NPR do this story on the border and there’s a lot of Mariachi in the background. The idea of telling a story through the song the way that Mariachi does is a beautiful thing to me. But for a band they have a pretty good outfit.

 

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CHIYONOFUJI MITSUGU

It was the snip heard around Japan. When champion sumo wrestler Chiyonofuji Mitsugu cut off his traditional topknot to signify his retirement from the ring in 1991, the whole country was mesmerized by the televised ceremony. For his eldest daughter, Yu Akimoto, it was a moment she’ll never forget. “When you cut your hair back to normal length, we had a lot of snow that day,” Yu tells her father in an interview. Just 8 years old at the time, Yu skipped school for the special occasion. “After you got your hair cut short, I was asked in a television interview, ‘How do you like your papa’s new haircut?’ ” Yu adds. “And I remember that I was very embarrassed. And I said, ‘It looks great,’ and that was broadcast by the show. The next day I went to school and I was teased about saying my dad looks good. I said to them, ‘What is wrong with that?’ I was mad.”

Until this moment, Chiyonofuji hadn’t encountered a pair of scissors in more than 21 years. Born Mitsugu Akimoto on the island of Hokkaido, the young sumo began wearing a topknot at age 15, which marked the beginning of his professional career. Standing 6 feet tall and weighing only 270 pounds (in a ring that often saw competitors 500 pounds or heavier), Chiyonofuji (nick- named “The Wolf” for his intimidating stare) became known for agility in the ring, and the swift moves with which he felled his larger, overbearing opponents.

By the time he decided to retire at the ripe age of 35 (most wrestlers at his level leave the sport by age 30), Chiyonofuji had not only ascended through the ranks to win 1,045 matches and earned the elite status of Yokozuna or “grand champion” but had also won a place in the heart of his nation. Upon retirement, Chiyonofuji took on a new name, Kokonoe Mitsugu, and the role of stablemaster for the Kokonoe Stable (one of the 54 communes where wrestlers live and train, including Chiyonofuji himself). “I liked the training,” Chiyonofuji tells Yu, reflecting on his days in the ring. “There are few people who like training, I think. But most likely, by training I was able to get something back. If you do not get tired doing something, you don’t win.”

“What is the difference in the training between your current disciples and when you were younger?” Yu asks. “It is much less now,” he responds. “There are many wrestlers who have injuries. To develop a build that is not easily injured, you have to do a lot, I think.”

“When [you were] competing, I was small, and I don’t remember everything,” Yu continues. “Mama said it was not a horrible thing to lose, but [you] said you hated to lose,” adds his daughter, who was named after the Japanese character “yu,” which means friendly, and the Japanese word for winner, “yu-sho.”

It’s a work ethic that was passed down to both of the champion sumo wrestler’s daughters, who have forged their own paths in their respective fields. Today, Kozue is a rising star in Japan’s acting and modeling world, while Yu is one of the country’s fashion icons and an accomplished DJ. “Nobody was able to succeed you in the business, since I am a daughter,” muses Yu. “What do you think about that?” “That doesn’t matter at all,” replies her father. “Becoming a wrestler is not easy. But looking at it myself, if I had a son who wanted to do it, that would have been OK. But this is the life I love.”

 

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千代の富士貢
レスリー・マッケンジー:文、チャーリー・ガルシア:写真

鋏の音が日本中に響いた。1991年、大相撲の横綱力士であった千代の富士が引退を表明し、その断髪式はテレビ中継され、横綱の髷が 切り落とされる姿に日本中が心を奪われた。彼の長女である秋元優にとって、それは忘れることのできない光景である。「お父さんが 髪を切り落とした日は、大雪が降っていたのよ」とインタビュー中、優は父親に話しかけた。まだ8歳だった彼女は断髪式当日、父の特 別な日ということで学校を休んだ。「髪が切られた後、テレビのインタビューで“お父さんの新しい髪形はどう?”って聞かれたの。 とても恥ずかしかったのを覚えてるわ。そして“とてもかっこいいです”って答えたんだけれど、それがテレビで放送されたのよ。次 の日学校に行くと、父親をかっこいいと言ったことを友達にからかわれて、“それのどこがおかしいの?”って言い返したわ。とても 頭にきたんだもの」と優は続けた。

断髪式のその日まで、千代の富士は21年以上の間、髪に鋏を入れたことはなかった。千代の富士、秋元貢は北海道で生まれ育ち、15歳 で初めて髷を結って以来、力士としての道が始まった。土俵で戦う力士の多くは、体重が約226kgまたはそれ以上という中で、千代の富 士の身長は約182cm、体重は122kg程度であったが、相手を威嚇するような鋭いにらみから「ウルフ」と呼ばれ、俊敏ですばやい動きを 持ち味に自分より身体が大きく、威圧的な相手力士を倒し、その名が世間に知られるようになった。

横綱レベルの力士のほとんどが30歳までに現役を引退する中で、彼は高齢ともいえる35歳で引退を決意した。そのときまで、1045勝を あげて横綱の地位に上りつめただけでなく、彼は国民の心もつかんだ。引退後は新しく九重貢となり、力士たちが生活と稽古を共にす る場所である54箇所の相撲部屋のうち、彼自身も過ごした九重部屋の親方となった。

「稽古は好きだったな」と当時を振り返りながら、彼は優に話した。「稽古が好きな力士なんて、ほとんどいないと思う。だけど自分 は、稽古することによって何かを得たという経験が多かった。同じことを飽きもせず続けるだけでは、勝つことはできないんだ。」
「今のお弟子さんたちとお父さんの若い頃を比べて、稽古に何か違いはある?」と優は質問した。「稽古が少ないね」と彼は答えた。
「怪我をする力士が多いね。簡単に怪我をしない身体を作るには、稽古をたくさんしないといけないと思うよ」 優は続けた。「お父さんが力士だった頃、私はまだ小さかったから、全部は覚えていないんだけれど、お母さんが“負けるのはそんなに ひどいことじゃないわ”と言ったのに、お父さんは“俺は負けるのが嫌いだ”と言ったのよ」彼女の「優」という名前は、「優しい」 と「優勝」の文字から名付けられたのだった。

元横綱の仕事に対する姿勢は、それぞれの分野で自分の道を進む二人の娘にも受け継がれている。現在、梢は女優、モデルとして人気 急上昇中であり、優はファッションリーダーの1人、そして名DJとしても活躍中である。「私は娘だから、誰も力士になって部屋を継ぐ ことができなかったんだけれど、それはどう思う?」と優は思いをめぐらせながら聞いた。「それは全く構わないよ」彼は答えた。「 力士になるのは簡単なことじゃないからね。自分自身を省みて、もし力士になりたいという息子がいたら、それはそれでいいと思うけ れど、お父さんは今のこの自分の人生が好きなのさ」

 

 

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LEILA STEINBERG

It’s a midweek evening inside the Pico Youth & Family Center in Santa Monica. Approximately 40 young people, a combination at-risk youth and teenagers aspiring to careers in the arts, are leaning forward in their seats toward a small stage set with a single microphone. A girl with artfully frizzy hair plays a soul-folk song, her own composition, and her young colleagues applaud and offer commentary and constructive criticism. Over the course of the next couple hours, these youths will take turns performing songs, poems and raps based around a single topic that had been assigned the previous week. Seated left of stage is Leila Steinberg, veteran community activist and the enthusiastic matriarch of this artistic assembly. The thoughtful, beatific Steinberg was Tupac Shakur’s first manager, a fact that secures her credibility in the eyes of the young people around her, many of whom were not born at the time of the hip-hop superstar’s 1996 passing but who still study and revere him as an inspirational icon.

“What is our point of unity?” Steinberg asks the assembly. A boy in a backwards baseball cap calls out: “We all want to express what’s in our hearts.” “That’s right,” Steinberg says, “and we do that by focusing on what we want to say with our voices.” The aim of this weekly workshop is to equip all the attendees with a healthy level of emotional literacy, and develop the most gifted among them as potential world leaders. As Steinberg tells them: “I want to mother you into being everything you can be.”

A mother of four, Steinberg does not use the verb “mother” lightly. The young people in her orbit are participants in a program called AIM (www.aim4theheart.org) that Steinberg founded 17 years ago, its roots dating back to a writers’ workshop she hosted in her Santa Rosa living room in the late 1980s that included a precocious teenage truth-seeker named Tupac Shakur.

A few days later, Steinberg is seated at a Highland Park café for this interview. Though she expresses trepidation that this article will focus on her personal story and not her work, her biographical details illuminate her mission. Her Polish-American father was a criminal defense lawyer working on issues of social inequality, her Mexican mother (who’d come to the United States at age 9) an organizer alongside Cesar Chavez and an activist with Amnesty International. Born in Los Angeles, Leila became an accomplished dancer and a member of the pioneering highlife group O.J. Ekemode and the Nigerian All-Stars, with whom she began to speak out as part of the anti-apartheid movement spearheaded by Amnesty.

“I understood how Amnesty leader Jack Healey built an entire movement with arts,” Steinberg says. “Tracy Chapman and Sting grew his cause, but they also were the work. I had an agenda which at the time I wasn’t able to frame. All my father’s clients were black and brown. My questions started in elementary school. The first placed I lived was 64th and Vermont, then we migrated to the La Cienega area, then migrated to Santa Monica, then Malibu. I was well aware of the privilege I had because my family understood the power of education and we had access. We had upward mobility and access and I knew there was an injustice in that. That drove me.”

When she became a young mother, Steinberg and her family relocated to the San Francisco Bay Area. Her husband was a DJ and nightclub promoter, and one night a 17-year-old Tupac came to dance at her husband’s club. That was the first moment Leila Steinberg saw Pac, and by cosmic design the pair ran into each other again the following day. “I was sitting on the grass in a big field in Marin City before starting to teach class,” remembers Steinberg. “I was reading Winnie Mandela’s Part of My Soul Went with Him, and Pac happened to walk by. He said, ‘What are you doing with that book? What do you know about Winnie Mandela?’ I said a lot, actually, that I was involved in the anti-apartheid movement. We began talking about issues that interested us, and he became a part of my family from that moment.

“My life became consumed with making Pac matter to everybody. I believed he was the one, like Bob Marley and many before him. It wasn’t just about arts. It was about social, political and educational aspects. It was about everything but entertainment for me. That was a by-product. Of course Pac could be entertaining. His art was, in its inception, for the sake of greater good. How can you raise a generation who are not wanted? Tupac was obsessed with the pain and imbalance in his community—all of the issues that he was born and cultivated to address.”

At Tupac’s behest Steinberg became his first manager, and the two worked closely during Pac’s late teenage years to refine his artistic mission. Steinberg is jointly responsible, along with Tupac’s mother, Afeni Shakur, for putting together Tupac’s best-selling, posthumous book of poetry, The Rose That Grew from Concrete (MTV Books, 1999). Comprised of poetry written during Tupac’s teenage years, the book has influenced subsequent generations worldwide.

“I wanted to get the book published while he was still alive,” says Steinberg. “I’d been reading those poems in classroom workshops for years. I’d open an assembly to 2,000 kids by reading the Tupac poem “Lady Liberty Needs Glasses” and have kids talk about what he meant by that. There are now classes at every Ivy League school on Tupac! Two hundred years from now when people want to understand what was happening in race, politics and music, they will study Tupac.”

With a John Singleton–directed Tupac biopic in production, Steinberg has only recently begun speaking to the press again about Tupac after years of grief-darkened silence. “In a sense I’m doing more work with Tupac today than when he was still here,” she says. “I’m using his poems every day, and I thank him every day. Now, after 25 years of process, I actually feel I can step out into the world and bring something viable to the way we impact our youth. I really want to make a difference, still. I haven’t changed.”

With AIM, Steinberg has created a no-cost curriculum called Heart Education that can be used in any setting where “heart work” is needed. “It works in juvenile halls, in prisons, in thirdrate classrooms,” Steinberg says. Tupac’s poems are an embedded part of that curriculum. Back at the Pico Youth & Family Center, the evening gathering is winding down. Some of the young people speak excitedly about a pending trip to Hawaii, where Steinberg will lead workshops for children on the island, and offer training in her emotional education curriculum. Steinberg announces the topic for the week’s writing assignment: revelation. As hugs and promises of “See you next week!” fill the room, Steinberg offers everyone some parting words of inspiration: “Remember, the reason Tupac is the most studied artist of his generation is because of his heart work.”

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PAT TENORE BY JOSEPH TENORE

My dad was 19 and my mom was 17 when I was born. My mom left Corona del Mar High School because she was pregnant and went to a continuation school. She started at Cal State Fullerton when I was three weeks old. She ended up studying education and becoming a sixth-grade teacher. Four years later, they got married.

My dad didn’t go to college; he took some classes, but all I know is that everything he learned was because he went out, grinded, bought computer programs and was self-taught. My dad wasn’t given an easy positionwhere you have all the resources you want and have a wealthy family. His mom was 13 when she had her first child, and she tried her best. My dad had to hustle to get his. He did a lot of moving during his childhood, from Chicago to San Francisco to Oakland to Piedmont, then to the Philippines, and eventually ending up in Orange County—all that before he was 11 years old. He did a lot of jumping around. I think having a child put a fire under his ass. Maybe college was too slow for him.

I have a vivid memory of our house in Costa Mesa, where my parents moved after they got married, walking through the backyard to the garage, where his creative kingdom was. Everything started in the garage. He had his friends over: TYKE AWR was sitting there—he’d just got done doing multiple canvases—and my dad was working on the computer. It was cool. I remember my dad got jeans, and he and his friends were in the backyard drawing on them with paint pens and then going to sell them at boutiques around L.A. and Orange County. From a young age I felt the energy of his creative work.

Growing up in Costa Mesa was fun. With the parents I have, things like skateboarding and creative thinking were pushed. Surfing was also pushed, but I didn’t get into it. I’m a skater, to be real with you. There were always a lot of people around our house, because my parents were still young. The vibe growing up with them was trippy—their friends were artists, fighters, designers, skaters, musicians and surfers; everyone was always at our house for UFC Fight Nights. My best memories of my dad and me are of us playing video games and him taking me skating, walking me to school and picking me up after—small quality time. That mattered most to me. Before he started RVCA and it kicked into full gear, he was around a lot.

I had rules, like “Don’t hurt someone unless they hurt you first,” and “Don’t instigate shit.” I feel like my parents tried their best to put rules on me, but me and my dad have more of a friend relationship. It wasn’t always like that; I had to earn it by being more accountable. That meant having integrity, being honest with my parents—through all the bullshit and the good stuff. My mom was my force field a lot. She was always really overly nice about disciplining me. My dad and I are more like brothers—we grew up together. He was older when he had my other siblings (ages 11 and13). It’s so cool to watch my dad bond with them. It’s like from an uncle’s perspective—they even call me Uncle. When my dad’s at dinner with the family, he’s always taking pictures, and then he uploads them onto hard drives. He just naturally documents. He always says he wishes he had more pictures of himself when he was growing up to show us.

We were in Italy recently, and we saw a bunch of people wearing RVCA and it was like,“Whoa.” I’m just proud of him. When I see stuff like that, I’m stoked on my dad, because he grinded and came through. His ultimate goal was to provide for his family and be a good man. That was something he verbalized a lot. Besides doing a good job with his interests and fashion and art, family is put before everything. My dad has sacrificed physical health for his family. He would do 48-hour shifts. The business went from a garage to a warehouse to an even bigger and better warehouse. He would be designing, talking to artists, curating stuff. He did a bunch of projects. He likes to do a lot of projects that aren’t involved with clothing, too. He’s always bringing up the people around him.

Do I feel like there’s a lot to live up to? Absolutely. My dad has been invited to the White House by the Obama administration as an example of a successful small business owner. That’s pretty special. I don’t know how the fuck I’m about to do that. Really, I don’t. The pressure is on.

Sometimes I think my dad is unlucky to be so warmhearted. I don’t think some people realize how much he does for others outside his family. He helps a lot of people, friends and strangers, straight up. He’s a people person. I don’t think my dad will ever forget where he came from, or the people who have been with him on the mission.
 

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